Fuel Filter

Alt · Post by **Alt** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 1:58 pm

Started to change the fuel filter on the weekend. Came across a few unexpected things like those non reuseable hose clamps. Plus the gas cap O ring that swells once it is out of its seat. Now I have to replace it. The part prices are not bad $15 bucks total. Anyway my concern is the note in the manual that says "once the fuel pump has been removed it is no longer serviceable." Does this mean even removing the entire systems makes the fuel pump in operable even though I am just changing the fuel filter and not touching the pump. The whole assembly is coming out from the underside of the tank. Any advice from those who have gone there before.

Alt
Port Dover

Post by **DJ Downunder** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 3:16 pm

I have not done mine but I did watch my BMW service mechanic do mine and sheesh!..what a tricky job.

I don't know what "once the fuel pump has been removed it is no longer serviceable." means..it seems very odd.

Good luck with it...I'm sure there's others here that have done it themselves and will be able to give you some advise.

DJ

jamais · Post by **jamais** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 3:35 pm

The pump is perfectly fine. Just don't run the pump when its not submerged in fuel. The fuel cools the pump.

budH · Post by **budH** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 6:07 pm

I believe that simply means that the fuel pump is not normally repairable if it fails - that you would need to replace the pump as opposed to getting it fixed.

I changed my fuel filter over the winter. Those single use clamps are a pain. They were the longest and most difficult aspect of the procedure. I replaced all mine with Fuel Injection Hose Clamps. I forget the size but can get it for you if you can't find that info on this site. My fuel pump of course worked fine after pulling it out to swap the filter. As someone else said, refrain from running the pump with no fuel.

Thankfully the intelligent parts guy at Chicago BMW sold me a new O-ring when I called to order the fuel filter!

Alt · Post by **Alt** » Wed Apr 05, 2006 7:09 am

Thanks for the advice all. If you have the fuel injection clamp sizes I would get some. It seems the engineers at BMW don't trust their techs much to use things like adjustable hose clamps, anything that is interpretive where a failure may occue they go with single use items. It has been a bit of a pain working on my machine only to order more parts and wait then work on the machine (and order more parts) while I listen to all the Harley riders come into town "riding" while I am wrenching. Dover is a big gathering place for bikes and while some complain those bikes are leakers etc they are easy to work on. Example battery change on the R compared to the V-twin. This may be an unpopular comment and I love my bike (had it since 02). But I had a 650CS before this and it was a nightmare and the BMW service at the head office in Whitby Canada with the worst experience I have ever had with any vehicle company.

Alt
Port Dover

budH · Post by **budH** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 7:35 pm

I purchased the fuel injection clamps at a local Auto Zone parts store - The lettering says "AWAB" and has a number 13 on them. They sell a a few different sizes. You get something like 6 in a package for $2.

By the way, trust me, adjusting the valves and changing the fluids on your Roadster is far easier than the Harley counterpart. Also, removing and reinstalling the fuel tank on the Roadster is not difficult at all. Just ride until the fuel level is very low, take your time - particularly with the two quick disconnects, ensure you have a nice soft place to lay the tank, and ensure you use a little petroleum grease on the quick disconnect when re-connecting them. I thought this would be a long involved process as well but if you are at all mechanically inclined, it's actually kind of fun. Do it now though before the weather gets much nicer!

Paul Mihalka · Post by **Paul Mihalka** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 8:10 pm

Tip: When you re-connect the quick-disconnects (

) makes sure you push in the tabs that released the connections. If you just try to push them together they don't connect well and may break.

Alt · Post by **Alt** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 7:33 am

Thanks for going easy on me regarding the HD remark, that one could have been ugly. I actually enjoy removing the tank and doing maintenance on the bike. I was just being cranky about having to order parts a few times while the bike was disassembled. Anyway the job is done and the next time I get into the tank I know what to order in advance. The fix is not hard, you just have to go slow the first time. Now I have the new gel battery, air filter, fuel filter and all fluids changed other than brakes. Again thanks for the advice and having this site. Now riding.

peterbulgar · Post by **peterbulgar** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 8:23 am

By the way, trust me, adjusting the valves and changing the fluids on your Roadster is far easier than the Harley counterpart.

I'm not sure which Harley model is the counterpart to the Roadster, but I thought that all the Harleys except the V-Rod have zero-maintenance hydraulic valve adjustment.
peter '73 R75/5, '04 R1150RA

revperry · Post by **revperry** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:21 pm

I've had several Harleys going back to 1972 and several Beemers going back to 1974 so I've done a looooot of maintenance on both makes. The Harleys are all easier in terms of routine maintenance. There's no valves to adjust 'cause they all have hydraulic lifters. The Harley air filters hang off the right side of the bike (two screws). The Harley oil filter is in plain, easy-to-reach sight in the front of the bike; the tranny & primary cases have easy to reach drain plugs, and the oil bags on the newer models have a drain hose under the left side primary case. Lastly, the Harley battery box hangs on the left side of the bike right behind your left leg_____pull the cover & the battery is right there!

Right now I have a '96 Sportster 1200Custom and an '02 R1150R. The Harley sits in my driveway with a "for sale" sign on it & I ride the R R almost exclusively! My Beemer only has 8K on it so pretty soon I'll be struggling with removing the tank to get at the air filter, fuel filter, & battery. I've done many, many valve adjustments on all the airheads I've owned so that's no big deal.

Harleys are easier to work on, so why am I riding the R R ? Must be Beemer fever!

revperry