Clutch Slave Cylinder Removal

[Xdot]

I'm replacing the clutch slave cylinder in my '04 Rockster. Got the rear shock removed last night before I ran out of time. Now I'm looking at a bar between the footpegs that looks like it comes out. It'll have to come out before I can get to the slave cylinder. It also suggested removing the electrical junction box. It also looks a little dicey getting the clutch hydraulic lines off. I feel confident I can get it all apart but if anybody has done this before or has any tips I'm sure it would save me a lot of time figuring things out.

I have ordered the replacement from BeemerBoneyard and picked up a set of brass quick-disconnects while I was at it.

Thanks much for any help.

John

[sykospain]

On the right-hand-side of the bike, the crossbar in front of the rear shocker is clamped by two bolts. Undo them and the transverse bolt on the footpeg carrier, then move to the LH side.

Often the bolt at the top of the rhomboid-shaped footpeg carrier on that LH side is dry-welded into the alloy crossbar by differential-metal corrosion, so what's needed to release it is patience, Freeze-Off spray, bolt-loosening-fluid, or a Mapgas gun and maybe as a last resort a hammer and chisel or an air-wrench.

Expert wrencher Neil ( Steptoe ) on the Brit site says that in his long experience, all you need to do to access and replace the pesky fault-prone slave cylinder, is remove the rear wheel and the shocker -- lower bolt on the swingarm and upper bolt under the seat. He says there's no need to lift the bike's tail with a camlock strap.
I've done it and he's spot-on.
Al in s.e. Spain

[Xdot]

I got the old one out and the new one in. None of it was hard, just a matter of figuring out the order of things as I hadn't been into this in an R1150 before. The old one was somewhat grimy but not terrible. The old bearing was dry but still shiny, though there was absolutely no grease left. It hadn't disintegrated but was noticeably notchy when rotated with a finger. Lots of times it can be hard to tell if a bearing is bad unless it is under load. There was no doubt here. The pushrod looked great. There was no wear on the slave cylinder end at all so I just left it in place.

I prefilled the new slave cylinder as well as the bleed line and connected them off the bike. I then filled the clutch master cylinder and pumped the fluid down to the lower connection until I had a nice steady drip into paper towels. I then connected the clutch line to the slave cylinder and bolted it to the transmission housing. I replaced the weird fitting on the end of the line with a speedbleeder and bled the clutch. I only got out a few tiny bubbles.

In the process now of getting everything back together. I'm going to go ahead and bleed the servo brake system while I've got the tank off. I've done that a few times and it is no big deal. Had the Boneyard send me a set of brass disconnects that I'm going to put on while I'm at it but that'll have to wait for it to warm up a little. I have a small shop and doing the quick disconnects always drip some fuel. This will be my third time to install BB's quick disconnects.

[sykospain]

Interesting, xDot.
My pal Motorcycling Mo here in Spain is worried about the fuel QDs on his '04 GS Adventure, which has the extra pipe-loop passing under the frame 'crossbar', linking one side of that bike's enormous fuel tank to the other. I think I panicked him by mentioning that Berlin-Spandau only guarantees any rubber components like fuel lines on their bikes for a trouble-free lifetime of a mere five years.

( See Chris Harris's extensive diatribe attacking BMW Motorrad USA's Sales philosophy regarding built-in obsolescence ).

You say you've installed QDs three times in total - hopefully not on the same bike ? ? I was advised that if one replaced each of the male QDs, the OEM plastic which snap for fun, with the alternative metal ones, everything will be kushtie. Correct ? The plastic female ones seem to be much less snap-prone. I'd value your comments.
AL

[peels]

On the right-hand-side of the bike, the crossbar in front of the rear shocker is clamped by two bolts. Undo them and the transverse bolt on the footpeg carrier, then move to the LH side.

Often the bolt at the top of the rhomboid-shaped footpeg carrier on that LH side is dry-welded into the alloy crossbar by differential-metal corrosion, so what's needed to release it is patience, Freeze-Off spray, bolt-loosening-fluid, or a Mapgas gun and maybe as a last resort a hammer and chisel or an air-wrench.

Expert wrencher Neil ( Steptoe ) on the Brit site says that in his long experience, all you need to do to access and replace the pesky fault-prone slave cylinder, is remove the rear wheel and the shocker -- lower bolt on the swingarm and upper bolt under the seat. He says there's no need to lift the bike's tail with a camlock strap.
I've done it and he's spot-on.
Al in s.e. Spain

I also can concur, though a bit more "fiddly" getting your hands and tools in the right places... it can be done. No way was i going to crab the bike apart for that.