Brake Line Replacement Question

[skylarmav1]

So as I replaced my rear pads last week, I noticed a mini pin-size hole size leak in the original (I assume) rubber brake line in the rear. I intend to replace and my question is:

The banjo bolts look fine and as I was shopping for brake lines I saw the more typical names (Spiegler, etc) associated with our bikes but I also saw a couple of "universal" stainless steel or otherwise brake lines that have great reviews and are in the $20 -$40 dollar price range vs two to three times that or more for the other more expensive brands. Granted some of these came as kits so I get the extra hardware but as mentioned, my banjos look great so all I think I need are the lines and the crush washers.

I get that these are brakes and we want absolute safety, but as someone who rides 3000-4000 miles per year, what am I missing on the significantly more expensive brake lines than a Goodridge (as an example) Will they not work? Is it "prestige" or is it a matter of good, better, best?

As always-thank guys. Appreciate your help.
Skylarmav

[CycleRob]

skylarmav1,
It is not just the length that is important. The orientation of the banjo fittings between each other matters because they do not usually have one end able to swivel and if not oriented correctly, when installed on the bike they force the brake line to "coil-up". That places unnecessary stresses on the brake line. If you hold each banjo fitting of the removed brake line between your left and right thumb-n-finger you'll see that they do NOT allow much rotation at all. Any brake line you order should be bike/model specific an an accepted brand name like Russel, Goodridge or Galfer.

[skylarmav1]

But if I orient the banjos properly-as they were before I removed them, we should be ok-right? Or are you saying that I shouldn't purchase a line without the banjos already attached so they will be the right angle? Thanks, Rob. Appreciate the input.

[riceburner]

If you're happy to make up your own brake lines then as Rob says - check VERY carefully against the OE brake line for the positioning of the banjo fittings relative to each other. You do NOT want any torsion in the brake hosing.

Remember that once fully assembled a brake line fitting will NOT rotate in relation to the hosing - they're clamped up tight to resist the pressure in the system.
I'm also not sure that it's feasible to remove banjos from an existing line and for them to be re-usable. I've always seen it recommended that fittings should be new for any replacement job.

I don't mean to be rude - but if you're not aware of the above then it might be an idea to spend the money on pre-madeup lines.....

one question - if your current line has a hole in it.... I assume there's fluid all over the place??

oh - and even if you're only doing 10 miles a year, brakes are something that HAVE to work. If they don't work JUST ONCE, you're dead.

[skylarmav1]

Understood. Just trying to understand the ins and outs of everything. Thanks.