Rear Seat Pan (Passenger Seat Delete) doesn't fit

[cgguy09]

Team,
So I've always liked the look of the r1150r with no Passenger Seat. So when I saw the Rear Seat Pan on sale on eBay from Motorcycle Shop on Ebay I bought it. The guy wanted OEM price for it (~$190) I negotiated him down to $130. However, what I thought was going to be a really simple install is turning into a pain in the A$$. I figured out the problem, the plate that attaches the seat-pain to the locking mechanism on the frame is too short. Specifically the pins. So swapped the plate off the old passenger seat and the plan fit perfectly. I called my local dealer & they were just confused. (I'd have taken it in, but the 3 inches of snow are a militating factor). Does anyone know where I can get a spare plate or why the discrepancy even exists, seems odd that BMW would make these parts that differ by less than a 1/8 of an inch. I've attached the pictures so you know what I'm talking about.
Take care, team.


-cFogs OUT
BT
NNNN

[cgguy09]

trying to figure out how to post a picture....
Little help?

[sjbmw]

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=24663

[sweatmark]

You're talking about the mount plate, part 5?



Yep, the attachment pins are short. My theory: designed by same BMW moron who let the too-short transmission input splined shaft happen.

So, you can encourage the pillion plate to engage via firm (e.g. 50+ lbs) push on each side of the plate, directly above the offending pins. A well-timed Serena Williams grunt or Germanic curse helps with the task. Just performed this procedure yesterday, in fact.

I've monkeyed with the pin rubber washers, etc.

(Edit: originally typed "Selena", wrong grunt)

[cgguy09]

You're talking about the mount plate, part 5?



Yep, the attachment pins are short. My theory: designed by same BMW moron who let the too-short transmission input splined shaft happen.

So, you can encourage the pillion plate to engage via firm (e.g. 50+ lbs) push on each side of the plate, directly above the offending pins. A well-timed Serena Williams grunt or Germanic curse helps with the task. Just performed this procedure yesterday, in fact.

I've monkeyed with the pin rubber washers, etc.

(Edit: originally typed "Selena", wrong grunt)

Yea, that's the piece! Alright, so it just a little elbow grease? I was pushing really hard on it and it wouldn't engage, I was scared I was going to break the damn thing. Did you take off the rubber washers or keep them on? I tried that last night, but it didn't seem to help. Thanks for the reply!

cFogs out
BTNNN

[echo42kp]

yes, I did the same thing. I had to get directly over it and then push down with the full weight of my body, almost lifting myself. It snapped in. But yes, it is a poor design.

[riceburner]

Yes - a good hefty shove is required to get it to fit.

Mainly because (IIRC) the damping rubber washers are a little thick.

Having said that - mine* don't seem to need much - maybe I've just developed a 'knack' for it.

an idea on how to modify it...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/rockburne ... 018241303/
(i've painted this pan&rack combo black since then)


* - I have 3..... don't ask (because I haven't a clue either).

[P_Jensen]

Went through the same thing 10 years ago when I bought one for my bike, it took some head scratching to figure it out. There are two choices to fix the problem;
1. The cheapest solution is to cut down the rubber bumper's between 1/16" and 1/8", approx 2-3mm (remember measure twice, cut once)
2. The second choice is to go to the hardware store and buy 8 or 10 rubber washers with the I.D. and O.D. to match the rubber bumper and stack 4 or five on each side. (the I.D. is the most important, snug is better to keep them in place)
The rubber bumper's are pretty stiff (designed to support the weight of the passenger on the standard seat) so they do not compress very much.