Ref my previous post 2 Aug 11 (Noisy engine on 04 R1150R)

[peter1951]

Ive just checked out the hex size on the L/H CCT. Its 17mm, does this mean its the old design? I recall reading somewhere that the upgraded CCT has a 15mm hex. Also has anyone managed to remove a CCT without removing the TB? It looks like you could get a socket behind the suspension arm using a 3/8" UJ.

Cheers

pete

[Airman]

Ive just checked out the hex size on the L/H CCT. Its 17mm, does this mean its the old design? I recall reading somewhere that the upgraded CCT has a 15mm hex. Also has anyone managed to remove a CCT without removing the TB? It looks like you could get a socket behind the suspension arm using a 3/8" UJ.

Cheers

pete

I believe the 17mm is the new style. You are correct that a UJ and socket will take it out without removing anything. If you're really curious, the old one has a spring in it and the new one does not. Myself, I've always wondered why we change out the left one only......

[jm1515]

Ive just checked out the hex size on the L/H CCT. Its 17mm, does this mean its the old design? I recall reading somewhere that the upgraded CCT has a 15mm hex. Also has anyone managed to remove a CCT without removing the TB? It looks like you could get a socket behind the suspension arm using a 3/8" UJ.

Cheers

pete

17mm = old style CCT
15mm = updated, interim 'old style' OR new style CCT

You don't need to remove the TB. Remove the oil cooler cover, and you will be able to remove CCT with a shorty ratchet extension and 2 UJoints, working behind the strut.
I think I had to attach a UJ, then the extension, then another UJ to the ratchet in that order. You'll figure it out when you get there....
I also had to use a 1/2" magnet to fish out the spring & plunger...

[MIXR]

I didn't remove anything. The R1150R has a thinner Telelever arm than the GS, so the tools fit over the arm and onto the head of the tensioner. The tensioner doesn't tension anything by the way. It's more of an anti-lash device. It also has a spring in the new one. It's just that the spring is part of the body and not a seperate item, so it's hidden inside. Rubber Chicken Racing have a replacement oilhead tensioner kit. Cheaper than OEM. Also note that the RHS doesn't have the same problem because it is on the underside of the cylinder and is constantly immersed in oil. The LHS drains down, and the older style piston and spring can't keep up. Have fun. Takes about 20 minutes, including making a coffee or grabbing a beer!

[Airman]

I didn't remove anything. The R1150R has a thinner Telelever arm than the GS, so the tools fit over the arm and onto the head of the tensioner. The tensioner doesn't tension anything by the way. It's more of an anti-lash device. It also has a spring in the new one. It's just that the spring is part of the body and not a seperate item, so it's hidden inside. Rubber Chicken Racing have a replacement oilhead tensioner kit. Cheaper than OEM. Also note that the RHS doesn't have the same problem because it is on the underside of the cylinder and is constantly immersed in oil. The LHS drains down, and the older style piston and spring can't keep up. Have fun. Takes about 20 minutes, including making a coffee or grabbing a beer!

Why would the RHS need oil ? It's spring operated isn't it

[MIXR]

The oil is both a lubricant and a damper for the operation of the piston within the cylinder. The spring-loaded piston has to shuffle in and out of the cylinder as the cam chain 'slaps'. The slap is more pronounced on the top side (left cylinder) as it collects splash oil rather sitting in an oil bath like the right side. The springs were 'weak' on the early tensioner, and the oil groove too large so oil could drain down really easily. The right side catches oil in the upturned cylinder, so is alwyas 'full'. More damping.

There have been a few versions of the 'tensioner'. The original, consisting of a piston, spring and cylinder with a 17 mm head. Known as a three-part. Then there was a 4-part 'fix' that didn't work any better. It had a 15 mm head I believe, and a two-part piston or something. Wasn't around very long. Then there was/is the current version which actually originated in the R1200xx engines. Also has a 15 mm head. Often called a two-part because the spring is captured within the cylinder.

Heaps of threads about this issue here and on ADV Riders. Or just Google 'Cam chain tensioner' or 'R1150 cam chain tensioner' and see what comes up. Lots and lots and lots. Cheers, Mick.

[CycleRob]

All the OilHead and HexHead camchain tensioners rely on supplied engine oil pressure to push tension the plastic chain guide tensioner band. The spring in the old tensioners is for start-up tension control plus tension assist from engine oil pressure when the engine is running.

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The R1200R HexHead camchain tensioner with the 15mm wrench hex head is the one you want. It contains 2 internal plungers, a spring and check ball that functionally are hydraulic zero lash adjusters. They behave just like hydraulic lifters in pushrod and rockerarm car engines. They take up the loose slack and hold that position as long as the engine runs. If the tension changes slightly with the engine temp, the normal pressure fed minute oil volume leakdown readjusts to the new dimension needed. That slightly more expensive engineering upgrade is exactly what was needed all along to solve the sewing machine clickitees. It's a good thing it was made fully backward compatible with the R1150 motor.