A mate of mine took his 1999 1100rs to the dealer for a service, while doing the job the mechanic discovered a roughness when rotating the rear wheel. My mate was told about this when he went to collect the bike. The mechanic told him it needs a new bearing, so my mate left the bike with them for the work to be done. He later received a call from the mechanic to ask, "Would you like to pop over (60 mile round trip) to the shop and have a look at the crown wheel and pinion, they are scored and need replacing". The bike has done 45,000 miles and is never thrashed or abused, should he just get them to replace the bearings or bite the bullet and have the crown wheel and pinion replaced as well? Quote for the bearing work is £350, they never quoted for the additional work and parts needed to replace the crown wheel and pinion. My thinking is that a crown wheel and pinion will score through use anyway and shouldn't need replacing after 45,000 miles. The same dealer replaced bearings in the final drive on this bike at about 30,000 miles.
Also wondering if it's worth replcing it with a complete second hand unit from Sherlocks or Motorworks.
Any advice on this much appreciated as a trip to Germany is planned for next week.
My mate says he is about ready to swap the Beemer for an MZ.
Final Drive
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Final Drive
I'm a rollin stone all alone and lost...............
Re: Final Drive
WOW !! when pre loaded properly these diffs go forever...
i re-build trans for living and have for 35yrs. my understanding and others have told me the quality control at the factory sucks. these diiffs if not set up properly will fail. hard to make a call without seeing it. i'm leaning towards improper pre load causing the 1st bearing to fail,and then when replaced that's all they did was replace using the same shims. i replaced one an my 12k 1985 k100. it was pitted from non use by the previuous owner. condensation pttied the outter race from just sitting there not in oil. the big carrier bearing on the 26yr old k100 has the same part# as the 1150. here in the U.S. i paid $85 for my bearing and replaced the seal and o ring re using the same shims. got to have some nice tools and know how to properly shim these things. had a looong talk with Bruno's of Bruno's machine shop in Canada about these diffs. he believes it is the fixture that holds the diff when bored at the factory causes problems. after boring, then released they change shape. he also told me on all the ones he has done that the pre-load between gears are fine, it's the pre load of the bearings that is wrong. i bought a spare diff for my 1150 off e-bay for $175. here in the staes the bmw shops get $100 an hr. i would shop for a good used one if i were him instead of paying that shop a fortune in labor and parts to have another failure due to improper shimming. check those little teeeny needle rollers on the para lever pivot bearings. mine were junk, i installed the aftermarket bushings
Larry
i re-build trans for living and have for 35yrs. my understanding and others have told me the quality control at the factory sucks. these diiffs if not set up properly will fail. hard to make a call without seeing it. i'm leaning towards improper pre load causing the 1st bearing to fail,and then when replaced that's all they did was replace using the same shims. i replaced one an my 12k 1985 k100. it was pitted from non use by the previuous owner. condensation pttied the outter race from just sitting there not in oil. the big carrier bearing on the 26yr old k100 has the same part# as the 1150. here in the U.S. i paid $85 for my bearing and replaced the seal and o ring re using the same shims. got to have some nice tools and know how to properly shim these things. had a looong talk with Bruno's of Bruno's machine shop in Canada about these diffs. he believes it is the fixture that holds the diff when bored at the factory causes problems. after boring, then released they change shape. he also told me on all the ones he has done that the pre-load between gears are fine, it's the pre load of the bearings that is wrong. i bought a spare diff for my 1150 off e-bay for $175. here in the staes the bmw shops get $100 an hr. i would shop for a good used one if i were him instead of paying that shop a fortune in labor and parts to have another failure due to improper shimming. check those little teeeny needle rollers on the para lever pivot bearings. mine were junk, i installed the aftermarket bushings
Larry
Don't poke a skunk...