R1150R Gotcha's

[Xdot]

Hey! New to the forum. Been lurking a while and looking at BMWs and am traveling this weekend to take a look at an 02 R1150R.

This is my first street bike but have been riding off road for the last 5 or 6 years. I love riding off road but all the trails and riding areas have either been closed or paved. But there are millions of miles of road that start at my driveway and its time to take advantage of all that pavement!

So this 1150 is about 2 hours away. It is an '02 model, yellow and silver paint scheme, ABS, and heated grips. mileage is around 21K. Being new to streetbikes, and to BMWs in particular, I was hoping you all could give me some tips on what to look for and how to look for it. As far as mechanical capability I rebuilt my first car (66 Mustang) back in 1982 while still in high school and have been laying on concrete ever since. Spent the last decade maintaining dirt bikes. So I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty.

Like I said, I've been lurking a bit and have been enjoying the forum. Looks like a great place to exchange information and I'm looking forward to contributing my own tips and tricks. Got to go now. We're about to get nailed by a Thunderstorm and will lose power any second!

John

[disonny]

Welcome John, I have an 02 R. Its the fast color, Red! Great bike. 27K and only changed tires and oil. They are a fun ride! Good luck

[DMM]

The 50R was my first street/road bike, too. I went from dual-sport bikes to the 50R and loved it.
The 1150s are very reliable and very maneuverable bikes. They aren't as light as most of their competition; however, they have a very low center of gravity, which makes them easy to maneuver and handle - even in stopped traffic and tight spaces. They hold up very well and are relatively easy to maintain, which can be a big deal if you wish to save money by doing your own routine maintenance. It's also much easier to find a dealer or mechanic who can work on it, if necessary, than it is for most of the European bikes (e.g., Aprilia or Moto Guzzi).
Although I also like bikes like the Ducati Monster, this bike (and Beemers, in general) are much, much better suited to two-up riding. Additionally, while it isn't "flickable" (more in respect to weight than actual maneuverability), it has plenty of hp and the torque to put that hp to use.

That said, I would simply recommend checking to make sure that the bike you are interested in purchasing has been well maintained. Either has service records from a local BMW shop or other trusted shop or that the owner has been meticulous about doing the maintenance himself.
I'd check for the obvious. Make sure that it starts and runs well. Check for signs of leaking fluids. How has the owner wintered the bike? The three things that stand out in my mind and which could be hidden (or just unnoticed by you and the current owner) are a weak battery (a relatively minor and simple replacement, if necessary down the road) or clutch or final drive issues (which are expensive, but rare). Noticing the clutch and final drive issues would be noticeable on a test ride.
Again, most potential red flags should be simple enough to spot. Ask about the 600 mile, 6k, 12k, and 18k services. Make sure that they were completed on time and done thoroughly (either documented with service shop records or personal service records). In general, these bikes hold up well.
Good luck with the search and happy riding.

[Ol' Jeffers]

I would add to all of the fine advice above......try to make sure that it starts from cold OK.
A little more difficult to arrange, perhaps, but a 'phone call prior to your visit should be able to ensure that
the engine is cold when you get there.
Other than that it sounds like a good bike for you to experience some road riding, maybe even a little touring.
I too am new here but I'm an old fart with a fair few years of riding behind me and the 1150R is my first BMW.
I've heard all of the prejudiced arguments for NOT having one, but in recent years these bike have become a real
force to be reckoned with. I am extremely impressed with the handling through windy roads, it gives great confidence
to the rider if you need to brake in a bend and the bike doesn't get unsettled too much. It's comfortable over a few hours riding
at least between fuel stops. In short it's a versatile machine that doesn't excel hugely in any one area but it does most things
well enough to put it in a class of it's own. Just my twopence worth. I like this bike a lot.

[Sunbeemer]

Welcome aboard John.

I guess you've probably read about the under-steeringhead, too-tight, cable-tie issue, so you might want to glance up under the right side of the instrument panel to see if the wire loom has chafed or parted.

Without being able to drain and check the final drive gear oil, the best way to check for bearing failure is slowly rotate the rear wheel with the bike in neutral on the centerstand, feeling and listening for any "notchiness", indicating an imminent large bearing failure. BTW, bright metal flakes on the FD drain plug magnet is another indication, but a dark smudge of filings is normal after a few thousand miles.

Good luck and good riding.

[CycleRob]

Spin the wheels to make sure they are true and there aren't any cyclic rotor brake pad friction sounds indicative of bent rotors. Confirm the exposed chrome fork tubes connected to the upper triple tree are not pitted, scored, nicked or corroded. Look inside the fuel cap opening for tank internal surface corrosion - - - difficult, since the normal color of the (brand new bike) coating looks rust-like. Check the throttle and fast idle lever ("choke") for smooth snatch free operation (engine off). When the engine is hot, sniff scan it for faint odors of fuel and gear oil. Note a slow cranking or hard starting engine and the remaining tire tread and use them in the final negotiation. Check both brakes for a quick release after a hard application at rest, motor running if it has ABS. Blow the horn . . . . it should say a loud MEEEEP!

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