valve adjustment...

[eluno]

OK, I have never adjusted the valves on anything and tomorrow I am going to do it on my R1100R. I did find some information about doing this, see this link: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl= ... %3D1I7GGLD
but was not sure if adjusting for a 1150 or 1200 is the same. The link is not for a 1100.
What do you think, can I use the instructions to adjust a 1150 or 1200 to adjust my r1100r?
John

[babulin2002]

hi,
in the link you posted in the file it says it includes the 1100 as well.
here's a useful file that explains things in more details, and in a more fun way
elmi.de/valve-dummies.pdf
good luck!

[eluno]

Thanks a ton! The photos really help. I will post my results asap.
J

[wakers3]

I plan on doing my valves this week - any thoughts or actual experience anyone has would be much appreciated!

[templar]

I just did 'em on my '99 last week. Very easy. Got the feeler gauge set off ebay for $12. (could'nt find them locally)

I did manage to strip one of the adjuster screws. Be careful torquing down the adjuster nuts, and also the valve cover bolts. A new adjuster screw/nut was $11 at my local dealer.

I bought my 1100R new in '98 and now have 65K on it, valves had never been tweeked. After the adjustment, she pulls like new again, is quiet, and even shifts smoother.

Next, I do the throttle bodies......shopping for a Twinmax.

Today I'm going up thru Rocky Mountain Nat'l Park. Now that my full power is back, it'll be more fun than ever!

[wakers3]

Well, I have to say that the valve adjustment wasn't as difficult as my mind had made it out to be. The only hurdle I ran into was the interior doughnut shaped rubber gasket on one side was split when I removed the head and I needed to order another one for replacement. Be sure to take the time to find Top Dead Center if you have never performed this type of service on an engine. So - for my report of highlights on my "done it myself" 24K service on my RL, I discovered that:
1. replacing the fuel filter sucks
2. everything else ain't so bad.

[philbytx]

QUote

Next, I do the throttle bodies......shopping for a Twinmax.

unquote
Save yourself money and aggravation...just get yourself a Morgan Carbtune...way easier to use and very accurate.

[templar]

Save yourself money and aggravation...just get yourself a Morgan Carbtune...way easier to use and very accurate.

Who in the USA sells the Morgan?

[taosports]

Save yourself money and aggravation...just get yourself a Morgan Carbtune...way easier to use and very accurate.

???

I use a TwinMax and it is very easy to use and accurate. If you want to save money however, make yourself a manometer. For less than $10. you have a simple, accurate measuring device. I've never used a Morgan Carbtune, but I assure you it costs more than the TwinMax...especially with the value of the US dollar these days.

[templar]

make yourself a manometer. For less than $10. you have a simple, accurate measuring device.

That is exactly what I'm doing today, will post results later.

[templar]

Today I balanced my throttle bodies with my homemade manometer, which consisted of....
* One yardstick.
* 20' length of clear plastic tubing, 1/8" ID.
* Couple ounces two-stroke oil.
* A few feet of clear packaging tape.

In my case it worked pretty good, as my throttles were way out of balance at both idle and part-throttle.

A few little tweeks on the big brass screws for the idle balance, and about a half turn on the right side knurled cable adjuster for part-throttle balance (3K rpm). I was surprised at how sensitive the cable adjuster actually is.

No doubt not as accurate as a "real" gauge, but close enough for me, and stoopid cheap! My throttle response is great now, and I think I detect a tad less overall vibration.

Plus, for the first time ever, my "fast idle" lever works the way I always thought it should....keeping a steady 2K rpm!

[dbuffington]

Today I balanced my throttle bodies with my homemade manometer, which consisted of....
* One yardstick.
* 20' length of clear plastic tubing, 1/8" ID.
* Couple ounces two-stroke oil.
* A few feet of clear packaging tape.

Excellent... Is it possible for you to post a photo or diagram of your manometer? Thanks!

[templar]

Excellent... Is it possible for you to post a photo or diagram of your manometer?

This is the one I (basically) copied....



Actually, the yardstick only serves as a cheap vertical platform for the tubing. With the engine running, the fluid (oil in my case) bounces like crazy inside the tubing, so the calibration marks on the yardstick are useless......ya just "eyeball" it.

Importantly, the gauge must be perfectly plumb to start out, so that the fluid is level on both sides of the tubing before starting the engine.

Hanging the gauge from the cieling would'nt work for me, as the thing would not stay plumb, and constantly moved around. Instead, I clamped the gauge to the front of an opened step ladder at eye level, then adjusted it to plumb with a carpenter's level, where it stayed put throughout the process.

Also, I got lucky when I bought the tubing at Home Depot. They only had it in 20' packages, which turned out to be the perfect length to drape over the bike, and keep it away from hot engine parts. And the extra-long tubing made it virtually impossible to suck fluid into the engine.

Hope this helps.

[dbuffington]

Hope this helps.

Excellent! Thanks!

[philbytx]

Save yourself money and aggravation...just get yourself a Morgan Carbtune...way easier to use and very accurate.

Who in the USA sells the Morgan?

You buy them directly from Morgan via the Internet.....he ships really quickly and it is a very easy product to use and accurate!