R Towed, Quick Disconnect Disconnect & a Lesson To Share
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Beemeridian
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R Towed, Quick Disconnect Disconnect & a Lesson To Share
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Last edited by Beemeridian on Mon Jun 08, 2015 4:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Beemeridian - Glad to hear that this was relatively trivial but the long term fix is to get rid of the OEM QDs.
I'm sure you've seen the recent posts on the problems with the LittleParts QDs, so I'd stay away from them. I replaced the factory QDs with Omegas and have been happy but you can also consider getting rid of them altogether. I know that folks on this board have used plain, straight tubing to good effect but if it were me, I'd use a tapered barbed fitting. I think someone posted a photo and a source for the fitting a couple of months ago.
Charlie
I'm sure you've seen the recent posts on the problems with the LittleParts QDs, so I'd stay away from them. I replaced the factory QDs with Omegas and have been happy but you can also consider getting rid of them altogether. I know that folks on this board have used plain, straight tubing to good effect but if it were me, I'd use a tapered barbed fitting. I think someone posted a photo and a source for the fitting a couple of months ago.
Charlie
'03 R1150R
Life member 365
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Life member 365
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- iowabeakster
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Beemeridian
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Beemeridian - the barbs serve a really useful purpose, making it difficult for the hose to slip off while not having to tighten down the clamp too much. This is why the QDs have them. Flared ends would serve the same purpose but they may make it much more difficult to get the hose on over the bump.
There was a post a couple of weeks back by one of our Kiwi brethern that has a picture of a a barbed hose connector
http://www.r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.p ... =fuel+line.
Even though I have the Omegas, it wouldn't hurt to carry something to fix a QD leak. I searched the Omega site for "hose connectors" but didn't find anything - didn't yet try hydraulic supply companies like the poster suggested.
Charlie
There was a post a couple of weeks back by one of our Kiwi brethern that has a picture of a a barbed hose connector
http://www.r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.p ... =fuel+line.
Even though I have the Omegas, it wouldn't hurt to carry something to fix a QD leak. I searched the Omega site for "hose connectors" but didn't find anything - didn't yet try hydraulic supply companies like the poster suggested.
Charlie
'03 R1150R
Life member 365
Errabundi Saepe, Semper Certi
Life member 365
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Beemeridian
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I purchased 5/16 brass barbed straight connectors at Home Depot in the plumbing department. I carry a couple of them with me along with FI hose clamps. I haven't actually taken off the original quick disconnects yet. I thought I'd wait until they gave me problems, since most don't. I have the straight connectors with me in case.
Al
Ogden, Utah
2002 R1150RT
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Ogden, Utah
2002 R1150RT
2004 R1150R (sold) (sigh...)
2004 R 1150GS
- CycleRob
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I was worried about using smooth straight brass pipes without barbs to replace the QD's on-the-cheap and w/o a trip into town. After I removed the stock rubber hoses from the shiny plastic fuel lines that are rearward from the QD's (so it's safer to remove the QD from the rubber hose) I stopped worrying. That plastic pipe was super shiny & very slick without any barbs, with just a barely visible swelled end. To increase both brass pipe's holding friction, I chucked my brass pipes in an electric drill and slowly turned (both ends) in 240 grit sandpaper to generate hundreds of circumferential micro "barbs". After cleaning the grit off they were pushed into the rubber hoses and with noticeably increased effort. That was a good plan. I snugged the clamps good-&-tight, w/o causing any crush-cut damage to the hose rubber from an overtightened clamp. I'm sure many people doing this will under or over tighten the FI clamp screws.
After my rides and a few days later I decided to check the FI hose clamps tightness again, just for kicks. THEY WERE ALL LOOSER!! About 3/4 turm more each one. Apparently the fuel softened the rubber some. Recheck your clamp screw tightness again!
After my rides and a few days later I decided to check the FI hose clamps tightness again, just for kicks. THEY WERE ALL LOOSER!! About 3/4 turm more each one. Apparently the fuel softened the rubber some. Recheck your clamp screw tightness again!
`09 F800ST
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
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Beemeridian
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- towerworker
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I had a similar experience after the 600 mile service on the R1200C. The engine just suddenly quit in the middle of a downhill switchback. Nearly dumped it.
After getting a ride form a member of the group to the local H-D dealer,I got a ride home to fetch truck and hoist to take bike 50 miles each way to dealer. Dealer had the tank off for the service and the mechanic failed to fully seat the fuel disconnects.
The starter turned the motor, but no fuel left me stranded.
After getting a ride form a member of the group to the local H-D dealer,I got a ride home to fetch truck and hoist to take bike 50 miles each way to dealer. Dealer had the tank off for the service and the mechanic failed to fully seat the fuel disconnects.
The starter turned the motor, but no fuel left me stranded.
2003 CVO RoadKing
2004 R1200C
2006 GoldWing
2007 R1200RT
2008 R1200GS A
2009 R1200GS
2004 R1200C
2006 GoldWing
2007 R1200RT
2008 R1200GS A
2009 R1200GS
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Beemeridian
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Their is a valve in the female (I think) QD that is closed unless the other (male?) end is fully inserted and the unit completely mated. When the QDs are separated, or if things are not seated properly, the valve stays closed and no fuel flows. This is what allows you to disconnect them without fuel leaking everywhere.What is it about the disconnects that causes fuel to stop flowing when they become partially uncoupled?
'03 R1150R
Life member 365
Errabundi Saepe, Semper Certi
Life member 365
Errabundi Saepe, Semper Certi