Rivers and Roads

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GypsyRR
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Rivers and Roads

Post by GypsyRR »

The Texas hill country - any excuse will do for me to get there. But honestly, the lure of the trek this time was as much about the rivers as it was about the roads. After several years of drought, the hill country has finally had enough rain to fill the rivers again. They were flowing again as in years past - full, clear and cool. Even a short trip (Friday-Sunday) was a great get away on my bike.

First, to pack the bike. I’m a minimalist. Everything I needed fit into this one seat bag and tank bag.

My fishing gear was added to it. Fly rod in the tube, and fly fishing gear in the orange Fish Pond pack (I used only half of the backpack for this trip. It is a great pack if you are interested in fly fishing)

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When I left Friday morning, it was very foggy. Trying to keep the visor clear was a hassle. By the time I got to Muldoon, Tx - things had cleared up and my ‘on bike’ camera caught this photo while I rolled into Muldoon looking for the next road on my route. I know some of you like trains, and this was a pretty one.

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I took all back roads to get to Concan, Tx this time. 380 miles of back roads with very little traffic. There was a ROT rally(riders of Texas) in Austin during the same weekend, and consequently that left the roads in the hill country surprisingly empty. It was like having the place to myself practically.

However, closer to the lakes, there was vacationing/boating traffic to contend with. This happened just a couple of minutes in front of me. I never could make sense out of what happened. I just know there is only one vehicle and two trailers. I suppose he was hauling his 2 wave runners behind his “pull behind” camper and lost control at the bottom of this hill. When I passed by the wreck I saw the wave runners on opposite sides of the road - off the trailer and the camper on it’s side, but the hitch was pushed into the back of the SUV. I do not think anyone was hurt and I'm glad for that, but I’m also very glad I did not have to dodge wave runners on TX 183 that day!

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After that - there was just a bunch of vast empty roads like this:


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I passed down the road I was caught on last March in a hail/rain/storm/flood - My Ride Through Hell. I took photos this time so you could see the type of thing I was dealing with in the midst of the darkness of that ride.

This kind of thing - only there were no barrels put out yet to warn of a wash out when I was riding these roads in the storm. Low water crossings with swift water like the one in the second picture were also hazards at that time.
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The place I stayed for this short trip was right on the Frio River - known for being a great river for ‘tubing’. Even so, there were not as many people on the river as there have been in the past. I did not intend to fish on the Frio River, but it was a nice place to sit outside and ‘people watch’ in the late evening after riding all day. Other than that, it was a little too crowded for me. The area was swarming with hormonal teens because of its close proximity to Garner State Park, which hosts a legendary dance each night in the summer.

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at sunset
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I was able to rid myself of the crowds during the day by finding places like this to go fly fishing. Complete solitude. Just me, my bike, and my fly rod on long stretches of empty roads and rivers flowing with cool, clear water. I fished a couple of spots and in another, the water was so clear and looked so inviting I just parked my bike and went for a swim.

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One of the places where I stopped to go fishing, was the McDonald Crossing on the Nueces River just north of Camp Wood, Texas. I had been here in March during the flood, and talked with several people at this bridge, which had been washed out by the force of the flood. It has been rebuilt 3 times since then. A before and after picture for you:

March2007
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June 2007
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I intended to go further on this road to a good fishing spot I found last summer, but the road has yet to be cleared or repaved. Instead of simple dirt or gravel, the road is still mostly river rock and very difficult for me to try to handle the RR on it. So I stopped at this first crossing and I tucked my bike off to the side, set up my fly rod, and traded my riding gear for fishing gear.

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At this point, let me just say - it is nearly impossible to set up a camera on a tiny tripod on a river bank and use the self-timer or a remote with only 10’ of range to try to get a shot of a fish on the line. …….. especially when you would rather fish than get photos for a message board! So, all you get is one photo of the first catch. It is a perch, I believe. I’ve heard them referred to as Sunfish and Bluegill as well. I just know you can catch these with just about every cast - but on this part of the river they are small. I caught these until I was tired of fishing in this area. Further up the river, there were larger perch/bluegill and Guadalupe Bass. But after this photo, I just put up the camera and enjoyed fishing. Sorry.

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The only thing that could make me stop fishing on rivers like this is the coming dusk and the memory of a peanut butter shake at BJ’s Café and Sweet Shop back in Camp Wood. I knew I wanted to fish another part of the Nueces and to ride 2 of the 3 roads named “The Twisted Sisters”, so I quit fishing and in a race against the dropping sun, I headed back to Camp Wood where Joni and Buddy run the best Café in the area. I had not eaten anything except Zone Bars and water for two days before, so I was in need of some real calories!

BJ’s Café and Sweet Shop was named #5 in the State of Texas for the best breakfast, but I go there for the Peanut Butter Shake they make especially for me. I do not think it is even on their menu, so if you ever go to BJ’s and you like Peanut Butter, don’t be shy about asking them to make you a shake. Joni and Buddy (and all the locals) have a way of making all strangers feel like they belong and are welcomed. I even have my own protected parking spot out front! I sat and ate a hamburger and then I watched while Joni made my peanut butter shake (enough for two servings!). I visited with 4-5 Camp Wood locals while I was eating and heard so many stories (and lies) from them, my head was spinning with information and love of this little town. Camp Wood, TX is indeed the friendliest town I have ever visited.

Joni and Buddy - owners of BJ’s Café and Sweet Shop
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Here’s my parking spot in front of the closed down Merritt Hotel. I sat and talked with Olan Merritt, the son of the original owners. He said I could park here anytime I wanted to keep my bike out of the rain or heat of the sun. I’ve yet to see a parking spot plaque with my name on it nailed up there though. He also told me he was 96 years old and I found out that wasn’t true. They enjoyed seeing how many ‘stories’ they could get past me.
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After a couple of hours of food and stories with my friends in Camp Wood, I headed north for FM 335 and then east on Hwy 41 to get to FM 336 where I headed south back into Leakey, TX and then on Hwy 83 to FM 127 to my cabin in Concan. I’ve decided that FM 335 is my favorite road in the hill country. It runs along the Nueces River through Vance for a while with sweeping curves and slight rolling hills and then it heads into the mountains with tighter turns lined with cliffs and drop offs and a series of ‘roller coaster’ dips and climbs throughout.

There is always the constant threat of gravel, high water, blind areas, deer, and free ranging stock on roads in the hill country so like always, you have to be alert the whole time. The last couple of miles of FM 335 and the section of Highway 41 between 335 and 336 is a plateau and so it feels like you are riding on the top of the world. Wildflowers were still blooming, so I stopped and got a couple of shots that show the vastness of Texas along this plateau.

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The ride home was uneventful and unwanted. Except….. ironically, the heat started getting uncomfortable in Comfort, Tx. I stopped in Comfort for gas and needed to check my tires after hitting multiple cattle guards on FM 336. While reaching for the valve stem, I got my first branding from an exhaust burn - about 2.5 inches long on my left arm. The only comfort came from the wind hitting it through my mesh jacket - even hot wind is better than the baking 103F sun.

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Going home always ends up stretching out for me. I drag out the trip until the last bit of light is fading from the sky. I stopped in Fayetteville, TX for a rest stop before the last 80 miles. I had been riding for 8 hours in the heat, so the shade of this gazebo was a welcomed respite. I sat and drank some water, listened to some music and thought about a thousand things. Then it was back to responsibilities and “real life” waiting for me 80 miles away. Going back to responsibilities after a fun time away is hard, but planning the next trip makes it bearable.

More photos are HERE

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Last edited by GypsyRR on Sun Jun 10, 2007 12:15 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Post by Boxer »

FYI. No need to check your tire air pressure when they are hot. You get a higher reading....I mean you CAN, but be advised that the reading will be higher. Don't go lettin' air out thinking you have too much. Too bad about the burn. Those headers do get hot.

Beautiful photos BTW. I camped one night at Garner SP back in...Oh well, it was a while ago right after I got the bike. I was on my way to California. I must have counted 50 deer in two herds as I was leaving that park early the next morning.
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Re: Rivers and Roads

Post by taosports »

GypsyRR wrote:Complete solitude. Just me, my bike, and my fly rod on long stretches of empty roads and rivers flowing with cool, clear water.
Almost heaven!

Thanks for the trip Gypsy.
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Post by chris »

Magic again! That fish looks like perch we catch here but they don't have that blue iridescence around the head. Spiny dorsal fin and gill covers can catch you out when you first pick one up, does your version spike you?

I'm about ready to try out a weekend trip on the bike at last. I got a tailpack eventually, couldn't find the one you have in the UK but found one in similar style, silver and black suits the bike! I bought a big dry bag and new tent, boots and gps and a friend gave me some soft panniers which fit great but are a livid PURPLE colour!! I can live with it though.
Just need some sun. We had great weather in April, rain all May, and June is nothing to write home about so far, let's hope the sun remembers it's supposed to be flaming in June soon.

PS, I'm not a train spotter or anything but that train pic took me back to my childhood when I was given a book that had a photo of a red and yellow Santa Fe engine, I thougth it was amazing, all ours are blue and green and dull in comparison.
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Post by GypsyRR »

Yes, Chris. These perch can stick you. I just grab the bottom "lip" while they are still hooked and use the hemostats to take out the hook. But if they are small enough and I'm throwing them back, I don't even bother to grab their 'lip' - instead I just hold the line steady and grab the debarbed hook with hemostats and turn it out of their mouth and they fall back into the water without human contact.

Chris - PURPLE panniers?? :shock: :shock: Paint them!!! You won't be able to post photos of your camping trip without chastisement, if you are sporting purple cases.

Good luck on your trip and that painting project!! :lol: Have fun.
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Post by chris »

GypsyRR wrote: Chris - PURPLE panniers?? :shock: :shock: Paint them!!! You won't be able to post photos of your camping trip without chastisement, if you are sporting purple cases.

Good luck on your trip and that painting project!! :lol: Have fun.
The panniers are soft, no painting :cry: they have black waterproof covers tho :lol: it's not as if it's just purple either..its livid, read by them at night PURPLE... :wink:
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Post by iowabeakster »

My jealousy has reached epic proportions. I may soon have to stop reading the great ride reports. It looks like you had my dream weekend. Great report and pictures.

No to be difficult but...I think you got a blugill there. But of course fisherpersons can call fish whatever they choose, as long as they catch it.

See the Dark Spot on the Gill, often blue-black. It is the prime characteristic of Blue gill.
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perch, notice similar stripes, no gill spot
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bluegill
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Last edited by iowabeakster on Wed Jun 06, 2007 7:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by DJ Downunder »

Beautiful pictures GypsyRR.. =D> ..Your new seat gooks great...anymore pics of the girls on the inner-tubes...(not for me..I thought others might like to see them).. :D

I love the pic of your bike in front of the orange barn.. :smt023

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Post by GypsyRR »

iowabeakster wrote:
Not to be difficult but...I think you got a blugill there. But of course fisherpersons can call fish whatever they choose, as long as they catch it.

See the Dark Spot on the Gill, often blue-black. It is the prime characteristic of Blue gill.
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perch, notice similar stripes, no gill spot
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bluegill
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Thanks I.B. I think you are right. I just always assumed perch/bluegill were the same but different :lol: :lol:

Actually, I did think they were in the same family, but I see they are not. But my 'bluegill' has a yellow belly and that picture doesn't show a yellow belly on the bluegill. Maybe it is a hybrid of something. Mine also had more of the slender body like the picture of the perch rather than the round body of the bluegill picture. Mine also has the more pointed stripes like a perch instead of the fading stripes of the pictured bluegill. Maybe a hybrid?

I wonder what it is? I just grew up calling them bluegill, perch, or sunfish interchangeably. Whatever it is called, it's some kind of panfish and you could fill up a pan very quickly casting to them!!
:wink:
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Post by GypsyRR »

DJ Downunder wrote:...anymore pics of the girls on the inner-tubes...(not for me..I thought others might like to see them).. :D
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Post by Beemeridian »

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Last edited by Beemeridian on Mon Jun 08, 2015 5:18 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by GypsyRR »

Beemeridian wrote:This may be your best report yet, Nova Scotia notwithstanding!

Gotta ask;
1) who taught you to fly fish? (say it was your Grandpa...)
2) Have you seen - and did you enjoy - A River Runs Through It ?
(pssst, Dave......... it was Newfoundland, not Nova Scotia)

1) It actually was my grandpa who taught me to fish and gave me a love for fishing. But he did not teach me to fly fish. Fly fishing was a natural progression for me after fishing for so many years. I hired a teacher 8 years ago and took a flyfishing lesson in the middle of the uptown area of Houston, using a reflecting pool for my "river" or "lake".

2) A River Runs Through It, is one of my favorite books. I've read it many times and it was the inspiration for me to begin fly fishing. There are a lot of great quotes in that book like, "Until man is redeemed, he will always take a fly rod too far back." You'd have to be a fly fisherman to understand the poignancy of that statement. And I've always identified with the line "I am haunted by waters." I know what that means - experientially. I've seen the movie a couple of times, but you know how disappointing movies are after reading the novel. But since it had Brad Pitt in it and Robert Redford's voice for narration, it didn't bother me too much. :lol: :lol:

Thanks for your kind comment and also for giving me a chance to reminisce about the grandfather who unknowingly instilled in me a zeal for living life fully, and a passion to live my life as a participant and not merely a spectator.
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Post by iowabeakster »

Gypsy,

You are likely exactly right about the hybrid thing. Fresh water fish hybridize constantly. I didn't want to risk going on and blabbing too much. The one in the picture does not have the typical shape of a bluegill.

Bluegills vary hugely in color schemes, from monochrome silver to bright orange, green, blue camouflage mottling.

I catch a lot of bluegill/bass hybrids. They are damn near psychedelic.
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Post by chris »

iowabeakster that's what I call a perch! Good to know there's things both sides of the pond that are just the same! We don't have bluegills at all here.
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Post by munchmeister »

Wonderful ride report Gypsy, especially for a guy sitting at the computer with his well bandaged foot and leg up on a stool as he sits (relieves the blood pressure on the graft sites). If I can't ride just yet, it sure is nice to see superb pictures and a great written report. I especially like the photos with the fly rod placed on to the RR. Thanks.
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Post by cruiser »

Wonderful photos and account, Gypsy... thanks for sharing :)

BTW, how do you - and anyone else for that matter - cope with temperatures like those you encountered - 40 C for heavens sake! I'm a river of sweat at half that temperature... and that's before I put the gear on (AGATT)! :oops: While I'm on the subject, this is the one aspect of summer riding which, for me, removes all the pleasure and replaces it with abject misery. I suffer really badly in the heat and I wish there was at least a partial solution... other than leaving the bike in the garage :(
Last edited by cruiser on Mon Jun 11, 2007 6:38 am, edited 10 times in total.
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Post by Rog(UK) - Yorkshire Dales »

Michael; I can totally identify with you on that. I also suffer when temperatures get over 25C. I have to admit, though, that the Heine Gerrick Summer riding gear which I recently bought has alleviated the situated somewhat.

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Post by GypsyRR »

cruiser wrote: .......how do you - and anyone else for that matter - cope with temperatures like those you encountered - 40 C for heavens sake! I'm a river of sweat at half that temperature... and that's before I put the gear on (AGATT)! :oops: While I'm on the subject, this is the one aspect of summer riding which, for me, removes all the pleasure and replaces it with abject misery. I suffer really badly in the heat and I wish there was at least a partial solution... other than leaving the bike in the garage :(
Michael:

It does get very hot and the discomfort is amplified by humidity. I think there are probably some good threads on dealing with the heat if you do a search, but here is what I learned by experience and what I have gleaned from this site.

1) You have to drink water constantly. Either frozen water in waterbottles or hydration/camelbak backpacks seems best for temperatures this high.

2) Don't drink/eat anything that is a diuretic (caffeine/alcohol)

3) Mesh jacket in a light color

4) light clothing under jacket that allows for evaporative cooling effects

5) cold rivers or cold running water - I stopped a couple of times and went swimming. Last summer, I stopped a couple of times and soaked a spare shirt in cold water and a head wrap in cold water and then swapped the dry for the wet before getting on the bike again. Some people use a cooling vest, which would be a better option if you were headed to work or someplace where your appearance after getting off your bike mattered. There are also neck wraps that you can use to help stay cool also. But a bandana soaked in cold water can do the same thing. I have packed frozen water bottles and then wrapped a bandana around the water bottle. It would soak up the condensation and stay cold and be ready to use at the next stop.

6) Avoid stop and go traffic. I chose routes that were back roads where I knew I would probably be able to travel 70-80 mph continually - except when rolling into small towns. But the stop and go traffic in a small town is over with quite a lot sooner than the larger towns with traffic jams. There were stretches of 100 mile where I might see 3 stops signs and maybe a total of 5 other vehicles, but had roads where I could travel 70-80 mph. And the smaller towns where I live, often have shady parks along the way where you can rest and rehydrate if you need to.

I ended up having the burn on my arm looked at a couple days after getting home. It is a second degree burn with one small section being a third degree burn, but because it happened at the end of my gas stop and I was back to riding for another 6-7 hours within two minutes of it happening, it never hurt much that first day. I think the cooling effect of the wind and evaporation just eased the pain even at 104F, so I know anything you can do to help the evaporative effect has got to be a major factor in being able to ride in the heat.

7) eat light. The fact that a heavy meal lessens your concentration and digestion raises your body temperature even slightly, only adds to the complication of riding in heat

8.) Lastly - you do build up a tolerance for it. I imagine I would have to build up a tolerance for anything below 55F!!! But, still, you have to hydrate often and you have to give your body a chance to cool.

I think when you ride in heat like that, you have to really stick close to 'the rules' of how to handle the heat, because you become confused and can't think clearly when you are on the verge of overheating and dehydration. Whether you are thirsty or not, you have to MAKE yourself stop to drink and cool. I've experienced the confusing effects of too much heat and dehydration and it is very scary. I imagine it would be deadly on a bike.
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Post by cruiser »

Gypsy, thanks for your comprehensive reply!

Everything you've said makes perfect sense, especially regarding the dangers associated with dehydration, and the avoidance thereof. I will certainly remember your advice. The diuretic effect of caffeine for example, is something I'd not considered.

Unfortunately the problem of extreme discomfort in high temperatures remains, and this I guess is largely dependant on our individual physiology. Unfortunately for me I'm sure I suffer more than most in this regard. In temperatures well below those which you endured, my helmet and clothes - no matter how light - would be uncomfortably sodden with perspiration within a very short time... and that's no fun at all.

The temperature here in Hamburg is pushing 30 degrees C these days and I know that this is already above my tolerance level for torture! Nevertheless, next weekend I will leave for a four day tour with some old friends from the UK, who are riding through Germany on their way to Poland. I will heed your wise words, should the 'high' temperatures continue... thanks again! :)
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Post by SLEDGE »

Loved the report! Very well written , grait pictures. The hills and winding roads are the best. Looks like a wonderfull week end trip. :D
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