System Case Alternatives???
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HarshPlanet5
- Basic User
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Mon Dec 12, 2005 11:29 pm
- Location: Portland, Oregon
I just received and installed the mounting brackets and system cases tonight in about 35minutes. I got everything from chicago bmw. It looked like they had the lowest prices with 20% off ($835 shipped). Took me about 10 minutes to rekey the first barrel lock and 2 minutes for the second with the great information found from this board.
Still expensive, but they look great.....
Done adding stuff on to this bike! On to the next!
Still expensive, but they look great.....
Done adding stuff on to this bike! On to the next!
2004 BMW R1150R - Silver
2005 Kawasaki KLR650 - Red/Black
Various bicycles
2005 Kawasaki KLR650 - Red/Black
Various bicycles
Holy cow, what did it do to the helmet ??? I can't get my Arai Quantum/F (Large) in the right case, or the RT left case for that matter.Tripton wrote:Hmmm....I have a XXL head...and a XXL helmet, and I can fit it in the Right case. Just have to coax it a little bit.![]()
Oh did anyone mention that they are tough??
What's the trick ?
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colinpollock
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- Joined: Thu Jun 15, 2006 9:54 am
- Location: Phoenix, AZ
I've been on the Chicago BMW website. Unless you know the part numbers for everything you need to order, their website appears impossible to order on.HarshPlanet5 wrote:...I got everything from chicago bmw. It looked like they had the lowest prices with 20% off ($835 shipped)...
How did you order your cases and get a 20% discount?
My Nolan 100E helmet fits in the right System case nicely.
Also, the mounting brackets provide a couple hand-grips for my wife to hang on at high speeds. (In fact, I've been backing the mounting bolts out a little at a time, and searching for the perfect pot-hole to grant me my freedom).
Also, the mounting brackets provide a couple hand-grips for my wife to hang on at high speeds. (In fact, I've been backing the mounting bolts out a little at a time, and searching for the perfect pot-hole to grant me my freedom).
Steve
Yellow-Jacket
Yellow-Jacket
Motorrad wrote:My Nolan 100E helmet fits in the right System case nicely.
Also, the mounting brackets provide a couple hand-grips for my wife to hang on at high speeds. (In fact, I've been backing the mounting bolts out a little at a time, and searching for the perfect pot-hole to grant me my freedom).
my nolan fits too.
oh, and, man oh man is that cold
Freedom is dangerous. Those in power that steal freedom are more dangerous.
- NHighCotton
- Basic User
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- Joined: Wed Jun 28, 2006 9:53 pm
- Location: 36.14N -86.59W
Go here first http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/fiche.asp# , look up your part number and the copy it to Chicago's site. I feel kinda bad using their site and not ordering from them but 20% is 20%!!colinpollock wrote:I've been on the Chicago BMW website. Unless you know the part numbers for everything you need to order, their website appears impossible to order on.HarshPlanet5 wrote:...I got everything from chicago bmw. It looked like they had the lowest prices with 20% off ($835 shipped)...
How did you order your cases and get a 20% discount?
Life is too short to use cheap toilet paper 
Member #457
95 R1100R Red
Member #457
95 R1100R Red
Just make sure you don't have the cases mounted, it would be a shame to loose them...
Motorrad wrote:My Nolan 100E helmet fits in the right System case nicely.
Also, the mounting brackets provide a couple hand-grips for my wife to hang on at high speeds. (In fact, I've been backing the mounting bolts out a little at a time, and searching for the perfect pot-hole to grant me my freedom).
Hard Case Alternatives?
Been struggling for about two weeks trying to figure out the best hard luggage arrangement for the R, and I think Paul hit the key negative issue I have with the BMW system cases -- so, does anyone know part numbers for the muffler lowering kit, or know any dealer who has an idea about what I would be asking for to lower the exhaust to horizontal, so I can install the RT full size left case? Thank you, one and all -- what a great resource here!! 
There is no misunderstanding that an unrequested opinion can't make worse...
R1150R Falco Hayabusa
R1150R Falco Hayabusa
- munchmeister
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- Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
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I want to add to the chorus and say that the BMW system cases are tough. I got rear-ended a few weeks back -- see this thread
http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?t=8204
My left system case took the main impact from the SUV. It then slid along the interstate. The impact did break the latch that holds the case to the bike (which could have been repaired) but that was it. It had a few scuffs (not very noticable) but it did not open, crack or otherwise fall apart. The latch that holds the case closed did not break or fail. I bought a new left case because insurance was paying for it. If I was paying, I would have repaired and reused it.
http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?t=8204
My left system case took the main impact from the SUV. It then slid along the interstate. The impact did break the latch that holds the case to the bike (which could have been repaired) but that was it. It had a few scuffs (not very noticable) but it did not open, crack or otherwise fall apart. The latch that holds the case closed did not break or fail. I bought a new left case because insurance was paying for it. If I was paying, I would have repaired and reused it.
Bob
2002 Atlanta Blue
Lifetime Member #74
2002 Atlanta Blue
Lifetime Member #74
I was admiring a set of City lids on a customer's R. Inside, there is a 4"-5" divider that appears to be attached to the innter bad. It makes for a wonderful pocket to keep things from tumbling out when you drop open the flat City lid.
Does anyone know if that divider is standard when you order a 'whole' City case, or if it's a separate accessory part?
Does anyone know if that divider is standard when you order a 'whole' City case, or if it's a separate accessory part?
I believe it is standard, (at least it came with mine) Denpneuby wrote:I was admiring a set of City lids on a customer's R. Inside, there is a 4"-5" divider that appears to be attached to the innter bad. It makes for a wonderful pocket to keep things from tumbling out when you drop open the flat City lid.
Does anyone know if that divider is standard when you order a 'whole' City case, or if it's a separate accessory part?
We all gave some,
Some gave all.
Anonymous
Some gave all.
Anonymous
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joejeweler
- Basic User
- Posts: 40
- Joined: Tue Oct 31, 2006 10:20 pm
- Location: Upstate New York State
What are "The codeable type"?
I just bought a used set of city cases off ebay and now carry 2 keys which i don't really like as the luggage case key rattles around up top and will probably scratch things up a bit over time. I figured i would have a locksmith re-key the cylinders in the cases to my ignition key,........but the cylinders don't apper to be easily removed.
Anyone have this done? and again,....what are the codeable type?
I just bought a used set of city cases off ebay and now carry 2 keys which i don't really like as the luggage case key rattles around up top and will probably scratch things up a bit over time. I figured i would have a locksmith re-key the cylinders in the cases to my ignition key,........but the cylinders don't apper to be easily removed.
Anyone have this done? and again,....what are the codeable type?
challey wrote:I'll second the recomendations for the system cases.
They are pricey but also are roomy, waterproof, reasonably secure and fit like they were made for the bike ('cause they were). If you can't find a used set, you can order new from Chicago BMW at 20% off the list price. Remember that you need the not only the mounting rails but also reflectors, badges and locksets (get the codeable type so you can use your ignition key). Should run around under $650 or so at a 20% discount.
Do a search for rekey. There is a thread there that talks about how to do it with a link on how to do it. You may also need to by a rekey kit, I think the info in the thread says $18. The locks are fairly easy to remove from the cases. If you have a dealer close, you may be able to take them the locks and your ignition key and have them do it. I took my locks, two case locks and a third luggage rack lock to the dealer I bought my bike from and they did the rekey for free. Took the service manager like 10 minutes. Do not pay a locksmith. When I asked one about rekeying the luggage rack, he told me he may be able to do it, was not sure, but price started at $70!
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joejeweler
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- Location: Upstate New York State
Thanks for the tip on the link,......typed in "re-key", .....found the link and just finished rearranging the wafers (4 of them) to fit the original ignition key. I tried a few searches before that but i guess i used too many search words as nothing was coming up. (i think i tried " Re-keying cylinder locks on system cases" once).
I removed 2 other wafers on each lock and made a slight 1 mm or so "adjustment" to have them lay flush,.....cleaned them off and re-greased them, and put them back in. They work great. 34 years as a jewelry repairman made it a couple minute job on each wafer.
I could have just left the 2 slightly long wafers & springs out until i could have picked up the re-key kit,........but i didn't want to wait and additionally get charged $18 or so bucks.
The link was more helpful in getting the locks out in the first place,.......as i've done this before on other locks but never on BMW system cases. I wasn't looking forward to getting at the locks from the INSIDE of the cases! The link made it easy to remove them.
BTW,......i found CycleRob's warning (below) about grinding the wafers down on the ends,.......but i believe that might be more of an issue if ALL the tabs were ground down. I re-arranged 4 of the 6 wafers to fit my ignition key and, in effect, my altering 2 of them in each cylinder mearly changed, say, .....a #3 into a #2 wafer.
Also,.....i did all grinding at my jewelry bench on the individual wafer to keep metal shavings from entering the cylinder. Seems to me this proceedure is just fine.
I removed 2 other wafers on each lock and made a slight 1 mm or so "adjustment" to have them lay flush,.....cleaned them off and re-greased them, and put them back in. They work great. 34 years as a jewelry repairman made it a couple minute job on each wafer.
I could have just left the 2 slightly long wafers & springs out until i could have picked up the re-key kit,........but i didn't want to wait and additionally get charged $18 or so bucks.
The link was more helpful in getting the locks out in the first place,.......as i've done this before on other locks but never on BMW system cases. I wasn't looking forward to getting at the locks from the INSIDE of the cases! The link made it easy to remove them.
BTW,......i found CycleRob's warning (below) about grinding the wafers down on the ends,.......but i believe that might be more of an issue if ALL the tabs were ground down. I re-arranged 4 of the 6 wafers to fit my ignition key and, in effect, my altering 2 of them in each cylinder mearly changed, say, .....a #3 into a #2 wafer.
Also,.....i did all grinding at my jewelry bench on the individual wafer to keep metal shavings from entering the cylinder. Seems to me this proceedure is just fine.
CycleRob wrote:dwayne,
............There was another tutorial on the net that, to save money, has you grind off the protrusions with the new key in place. That method is so-o-o-o very WRONG!! You loose all security to block other riders BMW keys if you use that method.

