System Case Alternatives???

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HarshPlanet5
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Post by HarshPlanet5 »

I just received and installed the mounting brackets and system cases tonight in about 35minutes. I got everything from chicago bmw. It looked like they had the lowest prices with 20% off ($835 shipped). Took me about 10 minutes to rekey the first barrel lock and 2 minutes for the second with the great information found from this board.

Still expensive, but they look great.....

Done adding stuff on to this bike! On to the next!
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Tripton
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Post by Tripton »

Hmmm....I have a XXL head...and a XXL helmet, and I can fit it in the Right case. Just have to coax it a little bit.:wink:

Oh did anyone mention that they are tough??
Airman
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Post by Airman »

Tripton wrote:Hmmm....I have a XXL head...and a XXL helmet, and I can fit it in the Right case. Just have to coax it a little bit.:wink:

Oh did anyone mention that they are tough??
Holy cow, what did it do to the helmet ??? I can't get my Arai Quantum/F (Large) in the right case, or the RT left case for that matter.
What's the trick ?
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Post by colinpollock »

HarshPlanet5 wrote:...I got everything from chicago bmw. It looked like they had the lowest prices with 20% off ($835 shipped)...
I've been on the Chicago BMW website. Unless you know the part numbers for everything you need to order, their website appears impossible to order on.

How did you order your cases and get a 20% discount?
Motorrad
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Post by Motorrad »

My Nolan 100E helmet fits in the right System case nicely.

Also, the mounting brackets provide a couple hand-grips for my wife to hang on at high speeds. (In fact, I've been backing the mounting bolts out a little at a time, and searching for the perfect pot-hole to grant me my freedom).
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Post by sjbmw »

Motorrad wrote:My Nolan 100E helmet fits in the right System case nicely.

Also, the mounting brackets provide a couple hand-grips for my wife to hang on at high speeds. (In fact, I've been backing the mounting bolts out a little at a time, and searching for the perfect pot-hole to grant me my freedom).

my nolan fits too.

oh, and, man oh man is that cold :)
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Post by scottmcfe »

By the way if you ever screw up the lids with scratches and such you can restore them with bed liner paint. I used Duplicoler from my local Kragen store . Looks like a factory job . $15.00 vs. the cost of new lids . Just a suggestion .
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NHighCotton
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Post by NHighCotton »

http://www.sierrabmw.bigstep.com/item.j ... ID=1133695

Used cases under $500.00...when available #-o
rph802
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Post by rph802 »

colinpollock wrote:
HarshPlanet5 wrote:...I got everything from chicago bmw. It looked like they had the lowest prices with 20% off ($835 shipped)...
I've been on the Chicago BMW website. Unless you know the part numbers for everything you need to order, their website appears impossible to order on.

How did you order your cases and get a 20% discount?
Go here first http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/fiche.asp# , look up your part number and the copy it to Chicago's site. I feel kinda bad using their site and not ordering from them but 20% is 20%!!
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Kazushi
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Post by Kazushi »

Just make sure you don't have the cases mounted, it would be a shame to loose them... :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
Motorrad wrote:My Nolan 100E helmet fits in the right System case nicely.

Also, the mounting brackets provide a couple hand-grips for my wife to hang on at high speeds. (In fact, I've been backing the mounting bolts out a little at a time, and searching for the perfect pot-hole to grant me my freedom).
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CycleDave
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Hard Case Alternatives?

Post by CycleDave »

Been struggling for about two weeks trying to figure out the best hard luggage arrangement for the R, and I think Paul hit the key negative issue I have with the BMW system cases -- so, does anyone know part numbers for the muffler lowering kit, or know any dealer who has an idea about what I would be asking for to lower the exhaust to horizontal, so I can install the RT full size left case? Thank you, one and all -- what a great resource here!! :?
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munchmeister
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Post by munchmeister »

Just remove it. Add a short, cheapo extension.

Image

Then use a full sized case.

Image

Adds a nice growl, too. No problemo.
:wink:
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rdsmith3
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Post by rdsmith3 »

I want to add to the chorus and say that the BMW system cases are tough. I got rear-ended a few weeks back -- see this thread
http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?t=8204

My left system case took the main impact from the SUV. It then slid along the interstate. The impact did break the latch that holds the case to the bike (which could have been repaired) but that was it. It had a few scuffs (not very noticable) but it did not open, crack or otherwise fall apart. The latch that holds the case closed did not break or fail. I bought a new left case because insurance was paying for it. If I was paying, I would have repaired and reused it.
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pneuby
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Post by pneuby »

I was admiring a set of City lids on a customer's R. Inside, there is a 4"-5" divider that appears to be attached to the innter bad. It makes for a wonderful pocket to keep things from tumbling out when you drop open the flat City lid.

Does anyone know if that divider is standard when you order a 'whole' City case, or if it's a separate accessory part?
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Post by mnnden »

pneuby wrote:I was admiring a set of City lids on a customer's R. Inside, there is a 4"-5" divider that appears to be attached to the innter bad. It makes for a wonderful pocket to keep things from tumbling out when you drop open the flat City lid.

Does anyone know if that divider is standard when you order a 'whole' City case, or if it's a separate accessory part?
I believe it is standard, (at least it came with mine) Den
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Post by joejeweler »

What are "The codeable type"?

I just bought a used set of city cases off ebay and now carry 2 keys which i don't really like as the luggage case key rattles around up top and will probably scratch things up a bit over time. I figured i would have a locksmith re-key the cylinders in the cases to my ignition key,........but the cylinders don't apper to be easily removed.

Anyone have this done? and again,....what are the codeable type?
challey wrote:I'll second the recomendations for the system cases.
They are pricey but also are roomy, waterproof, reasonably secure and fit like they were made for the bike ('cause they were). If you can't find a used set, you can order new from Chicago BMW at 20% off the list price. Remember that you need the not only the mounting rails but also reflectors, badges and locksets (get the codeable type so you can use your ignition key). Should run around under $650 or so at a 20% discount.
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Sit
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Post by Sit »

Do a search for rekey. There is a thread there that talks about how to do it with a link on how to do it. You may also need to by a rekey kit, I think the info in the thread says $18. The locks are fairly easy to remove from the cases. If you have a dealer close, you may be able to take them the locks and your ignition key and have them do it. I took my locks, two case locks and a third luggage rack lock to the dealer I bought my bike from and they did the rekey for free. Took the service manager like 10 minutes. Do not pay a locksmith. When I asked one about rekeying the luggage rack, he told me he may be able to do it, was not sure, but price started at $70!
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Post by joejeweler »

Thanks for the tip on the link,......typed in "re-key", .....found the link and just finished rearranging the wafers (4 of them) to fit the original ignition key. I tried a few searches before that but i guess i used too many search words as nothing was coming up. (i think i tried " Re-keying cylinder locks on system cases" once).

I removed 2 other wafers on each lock and made a slight 1 mm or so "adjustment" to have them lay flush,.....cleaned them off and re-greased them, and put them back in. They work great. 34 years as a jewelry repairman made it a couple minute job on each wafer.

I could have just left the 2 slightly long wafers & springs out until i could have picked up the re-key kit,........but i didn't want to wait and additionally get charged $18 or so bucks.

The link was more helpful in getting the locks out in the first place,.......as i've done this before on other locks but never on BMW system cases. I wasn't looking forward to getting at the locks from the INSIDE of the cases! The link made it easy to remove them.

BTW,......i found CycleRob's warning (below) about grinding the wafers down on the ends,.......but i believe that might be more of an issue if ALL the tabs were ground down. I re-arranged 4 of the 6 wafers to fit my ignition key and, in effect, my altering 2 of them in each cylinder mearly changed, say, .....a #3 into a #2 wafer.

Also,.....i did all grinding at my jewelry bench on the individual wafer to keep metal shavings from entering the cylinder. Seems to me this proceedure is just fine.
CycleRob wrote:dwayne,
............There was another tutorial on the net that, to save money, has you grind off the protrusions with the new key in place. That method is so-o-o-o very WRONG!! You loose all security to block other riders BMW keys if you use that method.
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