Brake Rotor Torque for a newbie.

This section is dedicated to the new Rockster version of the R1150R.

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Unklian
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Brake Rotor Torque for a newbie.

Post by Unklian »

Hi Everybody.
I've had a 2003 Rockster for a week now.
When bought, the front brake rotors were in a sorry state, patches of corrosion where the bike had been left standing after wet use.
I've tried various methods to "cure" a warped feeling in the front brakes.
After checking things with a micrometer, I was surprised to see how "thick and thin" the discs are.
I went to a local MOT station and borrowed the rollers for a bit.
A tester informed me it would be a warn not a fail but the horrible lurching as I'm just about to stop annoys me.
My new discs and pads arrive on Friday..........£350.00.
Could smebody please tell me the torque setting for securing these to the wheel?
I have good mechanical knowledge and will be most pedantic about cleaning mating faces etc.
I don't want to spend another £350 in a year !
Many Thanks.

Ian Phoenix
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riceburner
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Post by riceburner »

As tight as you can get em. ;) (and use Loctite)


I do em up with the correct size allen key/Torx key, ie NOT a socket set, and get them as tight as I can using JUST the key. The keys have set lengths for a reason. ;) (same as spanners have set lengths so that you shouldn't be able to over-torque a bolt using just your hands).
Non quod, sed quomodo.

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placey
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Post by placey »

unklian

welcome. the rockster is a great bike so let's hope that the shocking price you've paid for these components doesn't sour your opinion....

i have read more than once (but never put into practice for myself as i've not yet had to) that warped disks are a very very uncommon problem. the 'warping' feeling and uneven micromoter readings are 99 times from a 100 due to uneven brake pad deposits on the the disk surface or uneven corrosion levels, the latter sounding more likely in your case. both these conditions can be machined out with no adverse affects on disk performance, assuming sufficient disk material left i.e. they're not worn out.

pads can be sanded with course paper to reveal a new layer of friction material, assuming there's sufficeient thickness left, also assuming you want to skimp a little on the pads. i fully appreciate that brakes and tyres are the 2 vehicle areas that one should never skimp on!

it may well be worth you asking your local machine shop for a price to skim your disks and see if you can return your newly purchased items for a refund.

if you have loads of money and don't care a jot about the expense then please excuse the impertinance of my advice.

paul
dirt you say? i'll get my cloth....
Unklian
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Corrosion.

Post by Unklian »

Hi Paul, riceburner (and everybody else).

Trust me, I wish I could have had the discs machined.
£350.00 for discs and pads is obscene.
The new ones are now fitted (bliss).
The old ones were amongst the worst condition discs I've ever seen.
There were patches a little larger than the pad area where the pitting
was about 0.5mm deep. Too deep to skim I think.
The previous owner commuted on the bike in
all weathers then abandoned it for a week at a time if he needed to go
in the car. The Rockster was left in a wet garage with water between
the discs and pads.
The local dealer, Rainbows in Rotherham had the discs in 24 hours.
The torque setting is 17Lb Ft
(You're correct riceburner, this was just about as tight as i could get them by hand).
Next job,.........corroded front forks...........

Cheers, I'll be back.

Ian.
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chris
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Post by chris »

Hi Ian,
Welcome to the site and congrats on the new bike. Rainbow is my local dealer too, very good service there and free coffee and biscuits mean I often drop in for a look round and a bite when I'm close! What colour is your Rock? Will watch out for you!
Chris

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Unklian
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Hi Chris.

Post by Unklian »

Sorry it took so long to get back to you.

It's matt black with green bits.

Not sure of the proper name at the mo, just got back from holiday and jetlagged!

Will probably see you down there though.

Ian.
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