Tire Removal Tips and Tricks?? - Both of them simultaneously

Topics related to the ownership, maintenance, equipping, operation, and riding of the R1150R.

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wilyequid
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Tire Removal Tips and Tricks?? - Both of them simultaneously

Post by wilyequid »

Okay...so I have a new set of Metzeler Z6's fresh off the UPS truck (via SWMoto, $240 including shipping), and I'm intending to take the front and rear wheel off my R, and mosey on down to my dealer who will kindly mount and balance both tires for $40...

Question is... I'm a little leary of taking both tires off without some support system...I had this idea to build a little support from some old sawhorses to hold my baby up.... any suggestions?

Also, any tips on removing the tires (with ABS)... the manuals make it soulnd easy, but I'm a visual learner...and don't own a Clymer manual.... it doesn't seem complicated to me, but again tips and suggestions welcome.... I've been pretty fortunate and my R has needed so little mechanical help besides the usual maintenance...I just don't want to embarrassingly have to ask my neighbor to help me load it in my truck if I F...it up... which I don't think I will...but hey..you never know...

Thanks in advance...
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Post by Airman »

First thing you want to do is secure the center stand. I run a cargo strap around the crossover pipe down to the lower brace on the stand. This will prevemt the stand from folding if the bike tilts forward. Both wheels are simple to remove. On the front, remove calipers, then the bolt in the L/H end of the axle. Loosen the two allen clamp screws in the legs and pull the axle out. The rear is even simpler. Remove the caliper, take out the four wheel bolts and drop the wheel out. It may me tight on the hub, but not bad. I had my exhaust lowered so I had to remove it first. My bike is a little nose heavy so I put loaded side cases on to hold the nose up while I worked on the front. With both off you might want to put something under the front forks. Phone books perhaps.
Easy.
I saw a R1100R at the MOA national a couple years ago in the kneeling position while it's master was off to the tire tent. It looks funny, but it's quite safe actually
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Post by ErikU »

I did exactly this last weekend. By the way, my dealer wanted $100 to mount, and the cheapest shop in town wanted $50!

I like the tip about securing the center stand, I didn't even think of that.

Up on the center stand, I used some scrap wood under the front of the motor to keep the front end up. I then took off the front tire (very easy). I then used a bucket that happened to be just the right height wedged under the right side passenger footpeg bracket to raise the rear up an inch or two. The back tire came off even easier. No need to remove your stock exhaust.

I was very, very nervous with both tires off, and I wouldn't want anyone near the bike like that.... but it seemed to work fine.
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Sunbeemer
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Post by Sunbeemer »

I made a rear support with a short piece of wood to hold the rear up that pushes up from the ground on the underside of the rear shock mount, and a small bottle jack (with a piece of wood for cushioning) snugged up under the motor forward of the oil drain plug. This keeps the bike stable on the center stand. The strap is a good idea, especially if you are going to kneel it, which I wouldn't do if I didn't have to.

ALSO... if you protect your front and rear rims with masking tape while removing the calipers, it will keep them from getting dinged when the calipers hit them. You can gain a little more clearance by squeezing the pads back into the calipers to alow you to twist them out easier. Rotate the wheels for a minimum of interference from the the "spokes" of the rim. If your rear wheel is stuck on the hub, hit it with the palm of your hand (or a rubber mallet) all around to work it off the hub evenly. if you find a bunch of rusty yak in there, use a wire brushe and consider getting one of Keith Haynes wheel cap to seal the hub hole!

Sorry I'can't help you with info about ABS ring and spacer removal because I don't have them and have never worked on them.

Good Luck!
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wilyequid
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thanks

Post by wilyequid »

Yeah...thanks for the tips...much appreciated.... all good methods and I was thinking the same thing about securing the stand...it's been a concern, but to know others have done it....I'm feeling the comfort...

And I'm feeling the big R Love.... thanks again, ya'll
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Tyre removal

Post by Boxer04 »

All the advice is good - particularly the centre stand tie off.

The ABS ring stays with the wheel - it is not (and does not need to be)removed separately. Just be careful that the segmented ABS ring is not bumped either by yourself or by the tyre fitter. It is a bit light on the R and if it is bumped it is likely to be bumped towards the hub and so a bigger gap between the sensor and the ring will be the result. Any runout that is outside the allowable will cause a problem for the ABS. It will not monitor consistently and will give a false reading.
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Post by CycleRob »

Added to all that . . . .

CLEAN THE WHEELS GOOD before taking them to any dealer.
Discretely check that the rotation arrow is correct before you walk out the door with the newly mounted tires.

New tires are greasy the first few corners, so gradually work up to increasing cornering angles to scuff away the tire mold's release agent and the new rubber's skin before you get crazy.
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mxstone
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sling that R

Post by mxstone »

I haven't tried this trick with the R, but in the past when I had a project bike in the garage I would a run a couple tie down straps from the joists in the ceiling and hook them to the front and the back of the bike to make a sling. Seemed to work fine and even if I bumped the bike or had to crank on a bolt it stayed "suspended". Just draw the tie downs until the slack is gone and problem solved.
wilyequid
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They're on ..and I'm off

Post by wilyequid »

Hey..thanks you all for the suggestions... it was a pretty simple change, though getting the brake calipers off was beetch...but all is well, and when I turn on the machine the ABS all seems to check out fine...so I don't think I dorked or screwed anything up....

I must add I called my three local dealers... one said they would charge me $75 for balance and mounting, one said $50, and the last...from where my bike originally was sold out of ...said first, they couldn't do it "for insurance reasons...".. Knowing that was lame, I called again yesterday morning on my way to the $50 dealer, and was told that it "wasn't they're policy to put on tires that they hadn't sold." When I inquired about the "insurance" issue I was told that they "weren't aware of any such thing..." Me...I say, "hmm...and I won't be doing business with you all again if you can't all be on the same page in your shop..."

Of course, this story has a very happy ending for me.... took my tires in, was taken care of promptly, and the total (I expected $50, as quoted)... $30! Both tires!

Now, when a shop understands it's the little things that keep customers coming back...I'll spend money there on gear because I believe in supporting them... So...if you ever have issues with your machine while touring through Denver... BMW of Denver...

Ride on...
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Post by hevnbnd »

Just thought I would mention. Sears sells a moto atv jack for about $100 and it works great. Well worth the piece of mind not to have my bike fall... I have my ed80 up on it now about to pull the tires off and was looking on the forum for some tips.
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Post by Arjen »

Centerstand strapped to the telelever.
Front and rear strapped to the ceiling.
Simple and stable.
It looks a bit wierd though. :wink:

Image

(Yes, 4 photos 'glued' together. Not enough room in my garage to get the whole setup in 1 picture...)
Greetz Arjen
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Post by mad1150 »

Hey hevnbnd, I though a MC jack wouldn't work on the 1150's because of the CAT.

Since the jack is meant to raise a cruiser style bike by connecting to the frame, how do you position it under the 1150?

Mind sharing a couple pictures?
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hevnbnd
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Post by hevnbnd »

mad1150 wrote:Hey hevnbnd, I though a MC jack wouldn't work on the 1150's because of the CAT.

Since the jack is meant to raise a cruiser style bike by connecting to the frame, how do you position it under the 1150?

Mind sharing a couple pictures?
Yea I will take some and upload them.
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Post by R4R&R »

Arjen wrote:(Yes, 4 photos 'glued' together. Not enough room in my garage to get the whole setup in 1 picture...)
LOL - I was going to say, "Who build that garage?" Man that wall and ceiling sure are crooked!
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hevnbnd
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Post by hevnbnd »

mad1150 wrote:Hey hevnbnd, I though a MC jack wouldn't work on the 1150's because of the CAT.

Since the jack is meant to raise a cruiser style bike by connecting to the frame, how do you position it under the 1150?

Mind sharing a couple pictures?
Hey I forgot to take any pics... Will next time I have the bike up on the jack. I just set one pad on the CAT and the other on the bottom of the block and hooked the straps on the hooks on the stand. I ran one over the tank and over the heads and the other I took the seat off and ran under the fenders and on the frame. IT worked GREAT I left it there for a couple of days and could not move it left to right by pushing on the side of the bike.
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Post by scottdelamancha »

(Yes, 4 photos 'glued' together. Not enough room in my garage to get the whole setup in 1 picture...)[/quote]

Glad to hear it! Looked like the wall was getting ready to topple! I have yet to get my hands greasy.
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