Oil filter

[bono1151]

I was wondering if there was a cheaper replacement oil filter for my r1150r. I called the local Napa and that don’t carry anything for my model. If any of you guys have bought one could you please include part #. Thanks!

[DJ Downunder]

There are many cheap options...but don't do it..IMHO

CycleRob posted once about how good the BMW filters are compared the the average filter.

He even cut one open showing the insides...it was amazing.

They may be a little expensive but they're well worth it.

DJ

[ProductUser]

Paying a little extra for an oil filter every 6k miles is an easy decision. And, I think the cost savings of buying a less expensive filter, over the life of the R, was really negligible.

Like DJ pointed out, CycleRobs dissection/explanation of the quality of BMW's oil filter was pretty impressive. You may save a few $$$ if you can find the company that makes BMW's oil filters.

Others will chime in that any oil filter is good enough for our bikes. It all comes down to personal choice (much like the highly debated oil, ABS, air pressure...etc. discussions ).

[jm1515]

I used to be an old-time, dyed-in-the-wool, tried and true non-OE filter user.
Then I saw Cyclerob's pix comparing the OE Mahle with some aftermarket filters.
I then cut a used Bosch $6.99 filter that I use on the Subaru, along with the BMW OE I took off when I changed oil at 4000mi and was surprised at the difference.
The OE Mahle looks like a much better made filter.
Does it filter any better than my top-o-the-line Bosch?? Don't know...
Therefore is it worth the approximately 50% more in price?? Don't know that either...
But I do know that the Mahle looks like a superior product,
and that it is made to BMW specs.
That's why I ordered a 1/2 dozen from Chi BMW....

[MikeCam]

Wow, kill switches and oil filters in one day!

PF-53 (blue body) work fine.

Go to http://www.advrider.com, then find the Hall of Wisdom (button bottom of main page somewhere) and check out the parts cross references...you might need to search a bit.


Also go to http://www.ibmwr.org and check the maintenance pages for oilheads. Same cross references available there.

There are 5-10 filters that work based on size. Some are absolutely never recommended, some rarely but okay, others work fine.

In 37 years of motorcycles (and 11 years of 'net MC chats) I have never seen a post about engine failure from oil filter choices.

[rdsmith3]

In 37 years of motorcycles (and 11 years of 'net MC chats) I have never seen a post about engine failure from oil filter choices.

Blasphemy!

Lots of people are losing sleep over this.

[Kevin50r]

I pretty much use an 'alternative' brand and have for 23000 miles. Hopefully I'm not 'jinxing' myself by braggin' about it but the closest dealer I can stand is almost two hours away and I never remember to pick up a stock one 'cause I'm always attentively eye-ballin' the newer bikes.

I saw the kill switch thread and avoided it, as it approaches politics and religion status.

[CycleRob]

My praise for the obviously well made BMW filter was mostly for the additional microfine plastic mesh filter chamber that filters bypassed (UNfiltered) oil blown off by the oil filter's internal pressure relief valve as happens normally during midrange RPM's with a cold engine. I've never seen such a component in anybody's oil filter before. Look into the big center hole of a BMW filter and you'll see a black plastic domed panel. That's the endcap of the supplemental bypass filter. In very cold weather, like starting your bike in an outside temp of 25F (-3.9C), some syrupy 20W-50 engine oil will be bypassed the restrictive paper filter when you run it up thru the gears. Unfiltered oil may not ruin an engine to the point where it stops running . . . . but it could accelerate wear enough to make your engine a little bit more noisy than it should be.



I like to save money more than the average guy - - - - to the point where I re-use drain bolt washers, but on this decision, the 10 or so dollars saved every 6,000 miles isn't worth it to my peace-of-mind. I suggest you save money elsewhere if you care about your bike's longevity. Especially if you ride in really cold weather. The BMW engineers knew 20W-50 oil had shortcomings and "issues" in an OilHead motor and decided that the special oil filter was necessary for that longevity BMW riders expect.

Here are the relevant pics:
http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/12189899-M.jpg
http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/12189902-L.jpg
http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/12189868-L.jpg
http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/12189904-L.jpg

[wncbmw]

As far as the money goes, I don't think the savings for non-OEM is worth it.

As to the convenience of the dealer, my last service, I just called Carolina BMW, told the guy what I needed, asked him to add all the washer kits, etc, I needed and it arrived the next day via UPS. Can't get much better than that!

[FM696969]

ac delco filer # pf53 works perfect $3.99 at Autozone

[Bobby549]

Purolator L10241

[RonBomb]

Try using a Purelator PL10241. Give your dealer a little lesson in price elasticity of demand.

By the way, I bought a pair of plugs from the dealer last week - $20 for the pair!

RonBomb

[Alannc]

No one has mentioned this, maybe it's assumed, but I really think the frequency of oil change is more important than the filter. I change oil every 3,000 and have for 49,000 miles - sometimes less if it's conveniet for me. I use a PF53 just because they are much easier to get.

Someone mentioned burning oil. Since the first 10,000 miles I have never added any oil between changes - doesn't seem to change at all in the sight glass.

Alan

[Dauntless]

I just used a Mobil 1 M1-102 in my '04 Roadster.

[Dr. Strangelove]

do you have to use a special wrench for the purolator or the Mobil?

John

[challey]

No one has mentioned this, maybe it's assumed, but I really think the frequency of oil change is more important than the filter. I change oil every 3,000 and have for 49,000 miles - sometimes less if it's conveniet for me. I use a PF53 just because they are much easier to get.

Don't want to wind up starting yet another oil thread but . . .
much of the the literature and data says the opposite: That oil can retain most of its beneficial properities well beyond a typical filter's effectivity. Some oil companies (Amsoil for example), will stand behind their oil for very exended drain intervals, up to 25k mi, IF a high-capacity filter is used or IF the filter is changed out at 3k intervals (and the oil topped up).

While I still change the oil and filter in my R at the 3 to 5k mark (using the BMW filter), I have switched to high-cap filters on my cars and 8-10k drain intervals (using full synthetic). It's too soon to tell if this is effective but I have 3 cars, 2 with well over 100k on the clock, and none have had a need for any major engine work.

YMMV and this opinion is only worth what you paid for it.

[Dauntless]

do you have to use a special wrench for the purolator or the Mobil?

John

I didn't need a special wrench on the Mobil 1 filter. It's the same configuration as the BMW filter.