what is the easiest way to remive the front bearing or should i let the dealer deal with it and remember im a contractor not a mechanic but not stupid 
? front wheel bearing removal
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beekstersocal
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? front wheel bearing removal
i have an 04 R that im going to have the rims powder coated black ,with a red stripe on each side [ i know like the r1] what is the easiest way to remive the front bearing or should i let the dealer deal with it and remember im a contractor not a mechanic but not stupid
what is the easiest way to remive the front bearing or should i let the dealer deal with it and remember im a contractor not a mechanic but not stupid ride it like you stole it
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CycleRob
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beekstersocal,
If you use a blind hole bearing puller like service departments use, you'll be able to re-use the bearings, especially if the bike has under 15,000 miles. I removed my bearings from the damaged wheel at 41,000 miles and the bearings rotated perfectly quiet and were tight as new. I found that curious as BMW says replace the wheel bearings every 25K. If you bang the bearings out with a (slightly modified) drift pin, you should replace them. I recommend you take the front wheel to a professional M/C shop and have them remove the bearings. It takes 2 minutes with the drift pin method, maybe 10 min using the K&L Tools bearing puller. I've performed this routine too many times in 10 years, mostly to powdercoat SportBike wheels, and with the right tools and a little experience, nothing gets damaged and there's a lot of free time left.
One thing you must stress to the powdercoater;
MASK THE THREADED HOLES, ROTOR SUPPORT FACES AND BEARING RACES.
If they do a sloppy job masking, which sadly, is common, YOU are going to be educated on both the incredible durability of PowderCoating -and- the fine art of removing it without damaging the Aluminum underneath.
If you use a blind hole bearing puller like service departments use, you'll be able to re-use the bearings, especially if the bike has under 15,000 miles. I removed my bearings from the damaged wheel at 41,000 miles and the bearings rotated perfectly quiet and were tight as new. I found that curious as BMW says replace the wheel bearings every 25K. If you bang the bearings out with a (slightly modified) drift pin, you should replace them. I recommend you take the front wheel to a professional M/C shop and have them remove the bearings. It takes 2 minutes with the drift pin method, maybe 10 min using the K&L Tools bearing puller. I've performed this routine too many times in 10 years, mostly to powdercoat SportBike wheels, and with the right tools and a little experience, nothing gets damaged and there's a lot of free time left.
One thing you must stress to the powdercoater;
MASK THE THREADED HOLES, ROTOR SUPPORT FACES AND BEARING RACES.
If they do a sloppy job masking, which sadly, is common, YOU are going to be educated on both the incredible durability of PowderCoating -and- the fine art of removing it without damaging the Aluminum underneath.
`09 F800ST
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
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isiahstites
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isiahstites
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CycleRob
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isiahstites,
The manual says remove the narrow bearing first. For new bearings, heat the Aluminum race to 140degF then install the wide bearing first. I made a special tool out of a drift pin by undercutting the sidewall so the new edge mates with and fits into the tiny chamfered area between the bearing and spacer I.D. You then forcefully hold it tilted inside the axel hole, inserted into the chamfer, as you hit the driftpin with a BFH (Big Friggen Hammer). Alternate sides on each hammer blow so you don't jam the bearing sideways. Don't forget to remove the snap ring first.
I didn't buy new bearings. They came with the new $454 wheel assembly from Chicago BMW.
The manual says remove the narrow bearing first. For new bearings, heat the Aluminum race to 140degF then install the wide bearing first. I made a special tool out of a drift pin by undercutting the sidewall so the new edge mates with and fits into the tiny chamfered area between the bearing and spacer I.D. You then forcefully hold it tilted inside the axel hole, inserted into the chamfer, as you hit the driftpin with a BFH (Big Friggen Hammer). Alternate sides on each hammer blow so you don't jam the bearing sideways. Don't forget to remove the snap ring first.
I didn't buy new bearings. They came with the new $454 wheel assembly from Chicago BMW.
`09 F800ST
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
Member since Sept 10, 2001
"Talent, On Loan, From God" --Rush Limbaugh--
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isiahstites
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beekstersocal
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