New to me R1150R needs work

[DanielS]

Hi,

In order to practice my spannering and enjoyment I've bought a 2001 R1150R which has more corrosion than the titanic. The plan is/was to strip it down and rebuild it, learning during the course of this.

Unfortunately things went wrong from the start, and the during the ride home it cut out on me in lane 3 of the M25 (One of the busiest motorways in the UK), thankfully I was able to get it to the hard shoulder, get it restarted and continue the 100 mile journey home. Unfortunately the cutting out became worse and after nursing it along in lane one I decided to come off and park up to have a proper look at it. I think it's the immobiliser as the bike wouldn't even attempt to turn over unless I wiggled the immobiliser wires. Just as I was about to start stripping the bike down I thought I'd try and start it up to ride it to the empty side of the car park, it made an almighty horrible noise and that was it. Long story short, the AA came, took the starter motor off and metal fell out, mostly from the starter motor teeth, but looking inside the flywheel also has some missing teeth, so I guess now I really do need to strip it down. 50,000 miles...

Anyhow, I've got a new/second hand clutch and flywheel assembly (4,000 mile rockster) coming this week so I'm hoping that will fit, it looks like it according to the OEM Parts website.

The bike is in a very sorry state, corrosion everywhere, forks, engine, subframe, handlebars, telelever, swingarm etc. So I'm not sure if I'll buy a vapour blasting kit and try it myself, or hand it to an expert (Who'll probably want the engine stripped?) but that's a long way away still.

My latest conundrum is whether to build it back to standard, or spend more money and go for one of the Unit Garage kits on it. I did a search here and this is all I found: viewtopic.php?f=20&t=33017&p=246582&hil ... ge#p246582

Has anyone got any updated thoughts or news on the kits: Here's the Unit Garage site: https://www.unitgarage.com/r_115_r

Time isn't an issue, money is, kinda, so I'm open to advice, tips, tricks and I'm sure I'll be back asking more questions soon for when I get stuck in. I do have the Haynes manual and have watched many youtube videos (Chris Harris does good ones), I have a bike ramp and hopefully enough tools. I've also been soaking the nuts with Plusgas the past week or so in anticipation of starting soon.

I'll try and upload a few rusty pics shortly when I figure out how. Look forward to this

[peels]

cutting out may be the hall effect sensor. especially since you mention corrosion... that tells me its been sitting out getting cold and wet....

replace transmission oil seal whilst inside. check the input splines real close. take your time.

I might be inclined to go ahead and swap in a new clutch slave cylinder too those go bad from lack of care.


I applaud your effort. I hate seeing bikes go to the scrap yard, when they COULD be repaired

[DanielS]

Thanks for the info Peels.

This is how the bike made the second half of the journey home.





Once home, I got some photos of the corrosion, yes, it's manky!

[DanielS]

I've been tied up lately, but managed to make a start today stripping the bike down. It was bitterly cold so I didn't spend too long on it. I started off removing the bodywork plastics, the tank, the rear topbox rack, a bit of the airfilter, ECU and battery followed by the front wheel.

This was when I started





and then a few photos of where I got up to

[DanielS]

I'm following the Haynes guide, so next up is the exhaust.

The seller told me (honestly or not) that the ABS was working, but on the morning of collection it no longer worked. I'm unsure whether to just rip it out, or to follow the very comprehensive guide here to try and flush it and see if it works again. The pros of taking it out are the weight savings and between that and replacing the battery with a lithium one would make quite a difference. But we'll see, there's a long way to go yet.

The Rockster flywheel and clutch have arrived.

Also, when the bike did briefly run, it was very noisy for about 1 to 2 seconds after startup, I think I read about the chain tensioners? Anyhow, the guy I am going to take the engine to for blasting is an expert on these, so i shall ask him to give it a proper overhaul at the same time to ensure it's perfect before I spend money getting it blasted (and sprayed?)

I'm hoping that the fork tubes are salvageable given the rust on them.

So far, so good .. I'm sure that'll change

[AZBMWRIDER]

I've never seen corrosion like that bike has !!
Was it in or near salt water ???

[DanielS]

Apparently it was stored in a container at the coast for a while. I hope its all salvageable as I can't let it go to waste.

[peels]

yeah thats salty air/water.....

bummer. good luck!

[CycleRob]

I'm hoping that the fork tubes are salvageable given the rust on them.

What I see is that almost all of the scary corrosion areas are only cosmetic -except- for the chrome fork tubes. When the bike was last ridden (apparently over some pretty large bumps) any rust pits that likely were on them in the fork seal travel area had to be worn away and wreaked havoc on the seals and bushings. Surprisingly, I do not see any pits or long scratches on that seal travel area, so maybe there were none. Maybe that area was protected by car wax or the normal, very thin oil film. The fork tubes are expen$ive, so after complete disassembly (easy) you may be able to remove the upper rust pits with a razor blade first, then with oiled 1000 grit sandpaper, which will not harm or dull the chrome.

The other large area of problems may be in all the exposed cable ends, electrical connectors and switch contacts. Since it is a 2001, I would also take the starter apart to clean any corrosion off the armature like this truly excellent video shows: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oB-h-vZc6FY. After 16 years there will definitely be oxidation appearing as a dark discoloration of the commutator. A corroded commutator will cause a poor connection to the brushes, diminishing cranking power.
The engine block and fins may look better spray painted flat or gloss black after surface blasting.
You really have your work cut out for you! Good luck.

[DanielS]

Thanks for the info Rob. I'll be taking your advice regarding the fork tubes and crossing my fingers. I'll update when I get around to them. As for the electrical connections, a couple that I've had to take apart so far have been ok, but I will pay special attention to them. As for the starter, it's knackered and missing its teeth (See the top post, it sheared its teeth and a few on the flywheel) so it'll be getting replaced.

I've got a few ideas for the design and colours when finished, whether or not I do it is another matter. I'll post up some mock ups shortly to gauge other peoples ideas.

Thanks again. Advice always welcome

[Hyja1]

looking forward to hearing more about your project. Thanks for sharing your journey.

[DanielS]

While sitting at work I've been googling and have found some photos, some photoshops and made some of my own. Anyone like any of these, I'm tempted to build the bike up slightly differently, but we'll see, it's just ideas for now.

[Buckster]

That first one has me drooling!

[DanielS]

The First one looks lovely I agree. Unfortunately my talent probably won't stretch that far ... but you never know. My main worry would be the plastic fabrication of the plastics on the rear, both the side panels and the underneath/top. The tank panels/oil cooler covers are ever so slightly different as well ... we'll see. As always, there are many more knowledgeable folk on here than me, so happy to take advice.

[sykospain]

Oh my, you're clearly a very determined guy, DanielS, and a lucky one, too, what with owning a proper garage complete with a bike lift. Her Indoors won't let me have one....she says the garage is for both of us to use, without the danger of tripping over a great lump of red metal on the floor.

But for the life of me I can't understand why you bought a 2001 bike that's clearly had a very, very hard life; conscientiously neglected and on the whole, what looks to me like a pile of sh*te.

It's difficult to understand your reasoning when you bear in mind the vast number of 1150R alternative boxers on the used market at this time.

Five minutes on the Bay or Gumtree or Autotrader would throw up a good selection of similar-vintage machines in maintained condition, rather than the one you've invested in....
Did somebody GIVE it to you ? ?
Sorry, but personally I prefer to ride rather than restore. Life is short....
AL in s.e. Spain

[DanielS]

Hey Al,

Fully understand your thoughts and comments. My reasoning is that I have three other bikes, all work fine, need no work and I can ride them whenever. The 1150 was bought as a wreck on purpose so I could learn on it, if I wreck it, then I've lost a bit of money, not much as it cost me very little although I'm sure that with all the work then I shall be up to the price of a normal 1150. The enjoyment for me is working on it and fixing it up, not riding it ... yet

Lets see how it goes. I've not touched it since last week as been away so I only have a few hours again this Sunday

Oh, I may be lucky with the ramp, but want to swap? My ramp for your pad in Spain?

[DanielS]

Another few hours in the garage and it seemed that it was a little bit slow. Everything I touched was corroded solid. I couldn't get the ABS sensor for the front wheel out, and still can't, so after thinking what I will do with the ABS since it wasn't working, I will ditch it so I cut the sensor wire and got the front forks off.

The exhaust was another nightmare with the headers sized on, the slip joints seized too. But after lots of patience I got it all off.

Now though I'm stick with the telelever pivot shaft. The shaft (now) turns freely and I've got the nut off the right hand side, but no amount of hitting the shaft will see it budge. I've read reports of it corroding onto the bearing and I suspect this is what's happened. However it's not the end of the world as I should be able to leave it on there and worry about it later.

Next up is the ABS removal, the Haynes manual makes it sound daunting, but since I'm ditching the ABS it should be easier.

Once again, feedback, tips and tricks are always welcome.

The shaft I can't get out on the left hand side



The right hand side:



and some general pics.

[EasyBee]

When removing ABS, read this thread and watch the film, explains how to rewire to get the breaklight working again.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=35828

[DanielS]

Thanks. I watched that earlier and will do it at the same time.

[sykospain]

Wow, DanielS, the epitome of determination. I bow to your clearly passionate desire to rescue this bike:- "More strength to your elbow," as they say.

The pivot bar for the Telelever does come out; it's a bit like the front wheel axle pin.

I once had a pleasant chat with an expert called Nord in the Sales Team at the excellent spares dealer MotorWorks in Yokk-shurr; ey-up, lad..."Tha's a gutt customer, Alan..."

He gave me a useful tip on how to un-stick the rod from its sleeve when you need to refinish the corroded casting; but of course I've forgotten what he said. If you have a Skype or WhatsApp telephone opportunity, why not give them a call ? They're really most helpful and may come in handy when you want a shed-load of bits sent all-at-once as a shipping-cost saving.
As to the issue of using the Haynes manual for guidance; my middle son Tim, ace-bike-wrencher and in charge of the fifteen guys daily servicing his local Authority's police patrol Beemers - says when contemplating a DIY service on or maintenance of your bike,

"First of all, close your Haynes manual firmly and put it carefully back on the shelf. Then consult the web and other real experts on how to proceed..."

And he's absolutely right.