Exaggerated power use with a worn hex wrench during front wheel removal.
I ended up with a hex socket which has no more hex socket. hex socket is almost oval round now.
Do you guys have any idea how to remove this without going to an expert ?
Welding is the last option I guess;
here is the image( I could not load original image).Please refer to number 8 here.
You MIGHT be able to hammer an imperial sized hex or bit into the hole.
Do NOT use a power tool (most power tools are far too strong for anything bike related - I NEVER use power tools on a bike). but DO find a breaker bar or long tube to go over the end of your ratchet handle.
Do NOT attempt to 'bang' the tool to turn it - apply force slowly. Using the breaker bar will help with this - you can gently and slowly increase the torque going through the tool. Trying to 'bang' the bolt will often strip the surfaces (as you've done).
We once used a 6 foot scaffold pole to undo the rear-axle bolt on my brother's ZX6R - gawd knows what torque it had been done up with, but it had my entire weight on it and went through roughly 90 degrees before the bolt came loose. (some fool had done it up with a rattle gun I think).
When you're putting the bike back together - use a Torque wrench CAREFULLY.
riceburner wrote:You MIGHT be able to hammer an imperial sized hex or bit into the hole.
Do NOT use a power tool (most power tools are far too strong for anything bike related - I NEVER use power tools on a bike). but DO find a breaker bar or long tube to go over the end of your ratchet handle.
Do NOT attempt to 'bang' the tool to turn it - apply force slowly. Using the breaker bar will help with this - you can gently and slowly increase the torque going through the tool. Trying to 'bang' the bolt will often strip the surfaces (as you've done).
We once used a 6 foot scaffold pole to undo the rear-axle bolt on my brother's ZX6R - gawd knows what torque it had been done up with, but it had my entire weight on it and went through roughly 90 degrees before the bolt came loose. (some fool had done it up with a rattle gun I think).
When you're putting the bike back together - use a Torque wrench CAREFULLY.
I second nonuse of the power tool like impact wrenches!! OK for removing some things if used with caution but never use on moto's for tightening. I have seen some uguly outcomes from use of impact wrenches for tightening.
I agree as well, about not using power tools on a motorcycle .
Steel fasteners, aluminum threads, steel always wins !!!!!
A Torx bit tapped into place, may well be all you need to remove the damaged bolt/screw .
I also am an advocate of using anti-seize compound on threaded fasteners .
'02 R1150R, Atlanta Blue
Been riding since 1979, BMW's since 1981 .
4 R65's, '87 Guzzi V65 Lario .
Tap a Torx T40 or T45 into socket; use penetrating fluid, add some heat at opposite side (rear) of fork leg to soften thread locker on that fastener.
OR... Cut horizontal slot across head in order to use flat screwdriver blade; this is sketchy approach, but there's enough fastener head exposed from side view to cut without f'ing up the fork lower.
Spray is finding(hopefully) small gaps to penetrate. Drilling is complete. Screw remover is on its way. Unfortunately, in my area tools are not very easy to find on local shops.
Torx does not function.
I am in the mood of making a slit. However somebody is whispering; " patience, you must have !"
A 5mm drill and associated screw remover did not work since the tool smeared (not of good quality hss). Then decided to split hex head from the body of the bolt. Run a 10 mm drill for 7 mm depth step by step. Last chance I drilled in the next screw remover, first turn, it was out ?
Experience; next time drill only the head, with a drill as large as possible. Use the appropriate screw remover. All these for having a solid rotation for reverse screwing.
Thank you all, hole cleaned from debris, chemicals removed the rest. New m8x40 bolts Ss are ready to go in !
Replacement with stainless steel is good idea, as the fasteners live a hard life down there, and torque spec is low. Noticed that my cap head screws are getting soft with old age (alas, part of life) so will put those fasteners on shopping list.
AZBMWRIDER wrote:I also am an advocate of using anti-seize compound on threaded fasteners .
Yes, it is a good idea-BUT- you must be aware that anti seize compound is greasy and the lowered thread meshing friction will alter the actual applied torque to about a 130 percent tightening force and naturally a 1.3x bolt tension force. Over time, some of that grease between mating threads is slowly squeezed away and the 130 percent torque remains with less lubrication! Then you can mutilate the previously overtightened bolt's hexhead if the removal tool is slightly worn or deformed, not full engaged and perfectly axial. Add to that the possibility of a person using a portable drill driver to tighten it with the clutch set on too high a setting and you got trouble.
I am on my fourth or fifth oilhead (this one is a 2004 R1150R), the fasteners BMW uses sometimes seem to be of less than top quality. There is a company who advertises on eBay (B&B from Houston, although their website is called Desmo parts, I think) stainless steel fastener kits for a large number of bikes. I have bought kits for Two R1100RSes, one R1100GS, and now for the R1150R. The kits come with complete listing of where the fasteners go, and are subdivided into labeled bags. Very nice stuff, and there are always some extras included. They also have the hard to find "quarter turn" fasteners such as go on the RS fairing and you can order any stainless fasteners individually. The kits run from about 30 to 50 dollars. They're very upfront about the need for anti-seize 'gunk" when using the fasteners on aluminum; in the case of your fork pinch-bolt I would use blue loc-tite (properly torqued, of course), but that's just me. I usually just replace the stock fasteners with the stainless ones as I perform various maintenance or mechanical procedures. Also, if you live in the Houston, TX area and they do NOT carry a fastener set for your bike, then you can go to their shop, they'll replace your fasteners with stainless ones and you ride away for free.
