pistons and valves are out of timing

[4jbaker]

Hello,
I believe the pistons and valves are out of time? But how to fix?
Found I had a burned out valve so I cleaned up all the carbon deposits on my pistons, valves, head and replace a burned out valve.
Thanks to everyone who posted about cleaning carbon deposits, very helpful.

But now when I put everything back together and was doing the valve adjustment (went fine on the left side) on the right side I could not get any gap between the valves and where the valve rests.
So by hand I was moving the rear wheel around to move the pistons and valves the engine locks out on something (I think it is the valves) just before it rotates top dead center twice. So the piston the right side will go top dead center once and then just as it is about to go top dead center one more time it locks out.
Also I did put zip ties on the chain and sprockets to make sure they did not move.
Another bit of info when I took the heads off the left side (head) valves where all closed but the right side (head) valves where all open? Open just a bit but still open.
I wounder if the chain jumped when loosing the bolt that tightens down the sprocket.
If someone could point me to a post or advice I would much appreciate the help.
Thanks Jeff
r1150rt 84,000 miles

[kirby]

Man, you have somehow managed to get the cam timing displaced!!
You need to get your manual and go thru the procedures to re-time the cam. Its to complicated for a simple post but its not that hard to do.
mike

[CycleRob]

This could be a good lesson to others contemplating major mechanical surgury that have more "confident drive" than the full collection of knowledge, experience and tools needed to sucessfully complete the job. It's a good thing it was the rear wheel turned slowly and not the electric starter that turned over the mis-timed engine! Not using the CORRECT cam sprocket and flywheel TDC marks AND the ring gear TDC lock assembly or a flywheel TDC locater pin for the reassembly was asking for trouble.

Last summer I replaced a bent crankshaft on my rear bagger mower, after the blade hit a grass covered piece of hard wood. It has the 5.5HP OHC Honda motor where the (!plastic!) OverHeadCamshaft is driven by a toothed rubber belt, both running in the hot engine oil. Not having or needing a shop manual, BEFORE I TOOK IT APART I made prettydamsure I knew exactly where and how the cam timing marks lined up PERFECTLY at TDC. THAT is the lesson you must know before loosening those OilHead camshaft sprocket bolts. BTW, on that 1 cylinder engine I was so impressed with the brilliant, minimalist computer aided engineering design of every single internal part that I took several pictures of the whole operation - - - likely entertainment for a future Off Topic post.

[4jbaker]

Back on this project.
Thanks for the input, I did deserve a good chiding for skipping directions.

After reviewing my Clymer 1993 -2005 r850, r1100 and r1150 and r1200c* M503-3 manual, It turns out I made two mistakes, that I found.
1. I installed the left top end before I installed the right top end and that makes a difference, as I now know .
Also
2. On pg 108 picture 24 in the Clymer manual, I did not confirm that the sprocket knob was correct. The left sprocket and chain should have been taken off the top end when the left sprocket knob was at 12 o'clock, but I mistakenly took it apart when the left sprocket knob it was 6 o'clock position. The right sprocket and chain should have been taken off the top end when the right sprocket knob was at 6 o'clock position but I mistakenly took it apart when the right sprocket knob was at 12 o'clock position.
I did use a TDC locking pin along with zip ties tying the sprocket and chain together whenever I disconnected the sprocket and chain from the top end.

I realized these two mistakes and then took the heads off after making sure the left and right sprocket knobs where correct and installed the left head and then installed the right head. The engine turned over smoothly by hand and then started the bike but ran like crap. Meaning it will start but would not idle.

So I tested compression, right cylinder has 150 psi and left cylinder (has new head gasket) has 130 psi?

Any thoughts?

kirby do you know where the below would be in Clymer Manual?
" get your manual and go thru the procedures to re-time the cam"

Thanks for your input as I try to get back on two wheels.
Jeff

[kirby]

I am on the road and do not have my manual. 150 psi is good but the 20 psi difference is vey odd. Hope you did not bend a valve. The only thing I can think off at the moment. Bring it up to compression on the weak side and hold it there and listen for leaking or/and see if it will hold pressure. If it does hold and no leak look for a disconcerted injector and make sure the throttle cables are in their seats and both throttles are operating together to WIDE OPEN to give proper readings. If one is not and the other is it will cause a big difference in compression readings.
That's hope its is a simple cause!!

Keep us up on this!!

cheers

:-)