New r1150r rider brake smell?

[milehighboater]

I have just purchased a 04 r1150r w/abs 13K and love the bike so far. After I got used to the sounds of all the unseen motors under the tank I have been able to really begin to enjoy the bike. I have noticed over the last few rides (<20mi)there has been a distinct smell of either brakes or clutch but I don’t know which. Seeing this is my first dry clutch I don’t know if this is normal or if it is just my brakes getting a bit toasty in the neighborhood (lots of downhill). Also because this bike has little known history is there anything I should do to the bike besides adjusting valves, changing engine and FD oils? Can one man and a bottle of DOT4 successfully bleed/flush the brakes and clutch? Any suggestions? Thanks.

[MIXR]

If you have sticking brakes or are riding the (usually rear) brake(s), then the easy test is to feel if a caliper is hot after you stop. They tend not to 'smell' for very long as they are out there in the breeze. It is a possibility with a low-mile 04 bike. Brake pistons or slides tend to stick when not used.

It could be the clutch, possibly related to a dead or dying slave. Also common on bikes that sit around. That's a whole new problem. If the clutch is slipping, it will probably spin-up when you pull the throttle on in a higher gear (5th or 6th) on a hill at moderate speed. The clutch fibre plate may be gripping, but only just. It lets go under power/torque. Like I said - That opens up a multitude of potential issues. Pop the rubber timing plug out of the RHS bell-housing after a ride and have a sniff (if you can get close-enough). You may smell burning clutch that way.

Are you sure it's a brake/clutch smell? Could it be something dripping on to the cat? Check where the vent lines run.

As for service info - Grab a manual and look at the mileage and timed service intervals. If the bike has been sitting around, there is a very high chance that lots of work is required. All basic stuff, but lots of it. Some is distance-based. Some is based on the calendar (time intervals). I'm not an ABS fan, so won't comment on that as my two R1150s have not been abs bikes. Basic valves, non-abs brake and clutch bleeds are all one-person jobs with the right gear, but better (easier) with a helper (mostly to pass the cold beer, but also useful for pumping levers or cleaning up or grabbing tools).

Do the transmission (gearbox) as well as the FD oil. Same GL5 gear oil, easy to do, just more oil needed. 250 ml for the FD and 1 litre for the box. Do it warm after a ride and check the oil for particles. A little silvery/grey sludge is ok.

Good luck with it.

[Ol' Jeffers]

Agree with Mick.
When I bought my 2002 R1150R with just 8000 miles it was clear that the bike had only been sporadically used so the first
thing I did was to take it to my local repairer, not a main dealer, for a full service. All fluids were replaced and the entire bike checked out.
Well worth it for peace of mind.That was a couple of years back and I haven't had a problem, the mileage is now over 13,000.

[milehighboater]

I am glad to say I was just driving a bit too... assertive. I am now looking to do a full 12K service because the bike has 14,000 miles with questionable service history but I am having trouble finding the 12Kkm service recommendations. I am riding year round here in Colorado and will be having many <0 degrees Celsius rides. I mainly need to know the final drive oil types. I am going with 10w40 engine oil and a DOT4 brake fluid for the ABS flush. Does anyone have a good link for a full service? Thanks again...

[milehighboater]

I am glad to say I was just driving a bit too... assertive. I am now looking to do a full 12K service because the bike has 14,000 miles with questionable service history but I am having trouble finding the 12Kkm service recommendations. I am riding year round here in Colorado and will be having many <0 degrees Celsius rides. I mainly need to know the final drive oil types. I am going with 10w40 engine oil and a DOT4 brake fluid for the ABS flush. Does anyone have a good link for a full service? Thanks again...

[milehighboater]

I am glad to say I was just driving a bit too... assertive. I am now looking to do a full 12K service because the bike has 14,000 miles with questionable service history but I am having trouble finding the 12Kkm service recommendations. I am riding year round here in Colorado and will be having many <0 degrees Celsius rides. I mainly need to know the final drive oil types. I am going with 10w40 engine oil and a DOT4 brake fluid for the ABS flush. Does anyone have a good link for a full service? Thanks again...

[Ol' Jeffers]

Not difficult:
With an unknown or patchy servicing history.....
If possible take a look at and clear the ECU fault codes. If there are
any outstanding codes, investigate them.
Change all lubricants and fluids for the BMW recommended types.
Change air filter,oil filter and spark plugs
Check brake pads for wear, check discs for wear and warp
Check brake hoses for wear, cracks etc.
Check and adjust, if necessary, valve clearances.
Check operation of side stand switch and grease pivot.
Check TB Synch. and adjust if necessary.
Check throttle cable for freedom of movement, kinks and chafing.
Check tyre pressures and tread depth.
Clean and grease battery terminals.
Check all lamps are working including the 'idiot lights' on the dash.
Being picky I'd also change the fuel filter and check the alternator belt condition/tension.
If all this is done at the start of your ownership then you'll be riding with as few as
possible 'what ifs' and your bike will give you good service.
I'm a pretty competent engineer but for this particular major service I let my 'BMW Guru'
do the work as there is absolutely no substitute for product knowledge!