another battery death

[fahrer]

Hi everyone, just to warn you what might happen with a brand new bike. I bought a new R1200R produced in January 2010 on 18.03.2010. Two days ago, while riding, the bike just died, everything swiched off like someone pulled off the ignition key. Fortunately I was able to pull off safely, but nothing could be done on the road so I called a friend with a pick up and we loaded the bike and drove home. At home I discovered that the battery died and today I went to the dealer to claim a new battery, and I hope I will get it within a few days. As I have the same size battery in my F800S I was able to test the bike for possible addittional errors with my Gs-911.There were quite a few, all of them related to low voltage and bike's unability to communicate between components. None of the errors are present any more. If someone is interested, the error codes are:54100, 54101, 24052, 24055 ,41704, 41754, 37651, 37652 and 40460. The bike seems to work fine now and as soon as I get the new battery I'll take a longer ride and check it again.
So, do not trust BMW's Exide batteries, I'll keep the one that I'll get from the dealer as a spare, but I'm ordering an Odyssey, as that brand seems to work fine for a reasonable time.
Ride safely,
Boris

[rokinrider]

This makes me wonder? I noticed my battery light staying on for a couple seconds during startups? I just got my 600 mile service done and I am ready for some serious riding. I have to go back to the dealer for some oil, I will inquire then.
Rokin

[TIV]

I noticed the diagnostics routine that cycles when you first turn on the key leaves lit only the battery symbol until a few seconds after I start the bike. Should the battery symbol still be lit after the speedo diagnostics finish? Starts and runs fine but makes me nervous hearing all the battery issues here.

[Liam]

Hi Fahrer,

Do any of those error codes indicate a charging system failure?

I've had an Odyssey PC535 in my '09 R1200r for a little more than six months now (since my OEM Exide died with less than 900 miles on the bike). Cranking has not been a problem even rides that involve lots of stopping and starting on the way.

You can see the installation I did at viewtopic.php?f=20&t=18938. It isn't hard and it pays off with confidence that your bike isn't going to strand you.

Liam

[deilenberger]

I noticed the diagnostics routine that cycles when you first turn on the key leaves lit only the battery symbol until a few seconds after I start the bike. Should the battery symbol still be lit after the speedo diagnostics finish? Starts and runs fine but makes me nervous hearing all the battery issues here.

The "battery" symbol is NOT an indication the battery is good/bad/indifferent. It is indicating if the alternator is providing current to the bikes system, and more current then the bike is drawing.

So - it stays on until the engine starts, and can stay on until you rev the engine a bit to bump the starting current up. IF it comes on when riding - your alternator is not working.

[fahrer]

Hi Liam,
no, none of the codes are related to charging, which goes up to 14,58 V at about 2500 rpm and stays there at higher revs. They are all related to bike's problems due to low voltage. CANbus swiched all the systems off in order to protect itself from possible damage. These modern bikes won't run with less than perfect electricity, less than perfect fuel......
Twenty or thirty years ago I could run my BMW's on any kind of fuel and almost everything was fixable with a screwdriver and a piece of wire. Now one needs a laptop to diagnose what went wrong! On the other hand, they drive much better then the older bikes.
Boris

[deilenberger]

Twenty or thirty years ago I could run my BMW's on any kind of fuel and almost everything was fixable with a screwdriver and a piece of wire. Now one needs a laptop to diagnose what went wrong! On the other hand, they drive much better then the older bikes.
Boris

And they don't need the screwdriver or piece of wire near as often..

[Lost Rider]

These modern bikes won't run with less than perfect electricity, less than perfect fuel......

I have personally ran many gallons of very questionable brown colored, maybe even chunky fuel while riding in Mexico and have seen no problems. Only decreased performance that went away after the first fill up of good ole' premium US. fuel.

As for the CANBUS, I understand what you're saying, I'd like to have running lights on my turn signals like I had on my 1150R with an Kissan Signal Minder, but no go with the CANBUS.
On the other hand I like all the weight savings and other benefits from the CANBUS too.

It's called Progress.

[Mollygrubber]

These modern bikes won't run with less than perfect electricity, less than perfect fuel......

I have personally ran many gallons of very questionable brown colored, maybe even chunky fuel while riding in Mexico and have seen no problems. Only decreased performance that went away after the first fill up of god ole' premium US. fuel.

As for the CANBUS, I understand what you're saying, I'd like to have running lights on my turn signals like I had on my 1150R with an Kissan Signal Minder, but no go with the CANBUS.
On the other hand I like all the weight savings and other benefits from the CANBUS too.

It's called Progress.

...in the same vein, I heard somewhere that the headlight wiring harness on the 1150's had 60-odd wires, the canbus version has 6.

[Stef.]

Not sure whether my question is battery related and it is probably not even a problem but when I start my engine (when it is cold) and let it run to warm up the bike and don't use the throttle but leave it by itself than sometimes it just stalls and I have to start it again. My husband who rides a GSA says this never happens with his bike? It used to do this a lot with my former Honda but is this normal for the BMW?
Stef.

[vroomr]

No, it should not spontaneously stall, nor should any motor vehicle. Never happens to me.

This leads to the question of why you let it sit with the engine on in the first place. While you shouldn't abuse any cold engine, there's no reason you can't ride off as soon as you start it. Does the bike give you trouble when the motor is cold? The only thing I notice when mine is cold is the fast idle, which is appropriate.

Also, starting it and forgetting about it is a great way to overheat a vehicle that doesn't have a cooling fan.

[tinytrains]

I have found that mine requires about 60 seconds of idling before riding off at 55(F) in the morning. Attempting to ride off before then, sometimes results in bogging or a stall. I just let it idle while I put on my helmet and gloves. After that, it is fine.

The GS may be geared a little taller than the roadster giving it more torque. I stalled my R1200R many time the first month I had it. Believe it or not, my old K75 is easier to get rolling. It pulled like tractor at idle.

Scott

[deilenberger]

In the morning, after putting my helmet on, I start the engine, flick the aux-lights switch twice to close the garage door (I've pushed the bike outside), pull on my gloves and GO. Total time between starting engine and butt on seat and moving - mebbe 30 seconds.

When I first got the R12R I thought it was geared too high in 1st gear, and used to fear stalling it starting out, especially on an uphill start. No longer the case, and I (age creeping in..) frequently forget to shift down to 1st when I come to a traffic light, meaning when I take off - I'm taking off in 2nd. There is no problem with starting off in 2nd on level ground, bike just goes like a tractor.

I did own a K100 (also 2nd gear start friendly) and a K75S - which would NOT start off in 2nd at all. Torque was not a word associated with the K75, except as "lack of torque"...

Anyway - start engine, go. Seems to work fine in any temps I ride in (30F-100F generally).

[hjsbmw]

The engine is somewhat cold blooded when temps go below 50F. I too generally push it out of the garage, start it, put on my gloves, and take off. The warm-up is less than a minute. After the first mile there is no hesitation. If I have to stop and go sooner than that the engine sometimes chokes and stalls. It tends to not always take the gas too well from bottom. It can help to *slightly* raise the engine revs once before releasing the clutch.

[websterize]

I motor away 15 seconds after engine start with no engines stalls or hesitations in cold and hot weather — would be underway faster if the garage door closed quicker.

[Stef.]

Richard- I don't let my bike sit there on its own running hot. I do it the same way as some of the others here: start the engine- put gloves and helmet on and off I go. Nevertheless, as said sometimes in those 60 sec my engine turns itself off and i have to re-start the bike while Peter's GSA never has this happening. I am glad to hear that I am not the only one to whom this happens. I was just wondering whether during the last service they had changed something which they shouldn't have.
Thanks again for your replies- very much appreciated.
Stef.

[tinytrains]

If it stalls just sitting there idling in neutral, that is a problem that should be looked at by the dealer.

If it stalls as you try and ride off, that may be just a case of getting used to it's characteristics at cold.

Scott

[ShinySideUp]

If it stalls just sitting there idling in neutral, that is a problem that should be looked at by the dealer.
Scott

I totally agree. Get your dealer to check it out. This sounds like nothing that should be happening to a computer-controlled engine. Never happens to me, although I did, as Don wrote, feel it was geared too high in 1st during the first weeks of ownership. Not a problem now.

But it should NOT die at idle, ever. Period. (Show THIS to the dealer!)

[daveyator]

This might have been covered but I'll ask anyway. Is there any correlation between bikes that have bypassed the CANBUS and wired various amp hungry gizmos directly to the battery and premature battery death? Mine is original and has shown no hint of trouble. The biggest amp draw I have is my BMW vest but I use the original amp limited socket. Also I've always just started and ridden off even at 29 deg once and its never hesitated.

[TAG-Caver]

This might have been covered but I'll ask anyway. Is there any correlation between bikes that have bypassed the CANBUS and wired various amp hungry gizmos directly to the battery and premature battery death? Mine is original and has shown no hint of trouble. The biggest amp draw I have is my BMW vest but I use to original amp limited socket. Also I've always just started and ridden off even at 29 deg once and its never hesitated.

My bike is stone stock except barback and lower footpegs, nothing electrical done. It died without warning, but at least it was polite enough to do it at the dealer.