my first valve adjustment -- three questions

[cswett]

Never to early to worry, I always say. I just went to buy my feeler gauges, and all they had was SAE. They translate into .152 and .305 mm. Will that work?
Also, do the valve cover bolts and the alternator belt cover bolts need to be torqued to a certain spec or can they just be firmly hand-tightened.
Finally, can you point me toward a site that converts inch pounds or foot pounds to NMs. Thanks much

[macx]

I've got a BMW maintenance manual and I'm pretty sure that gives both types of values -
incl/ft lbs and NMs. EDIT: Yes, 6 ft lbs or 8 NM.

It's nearly as important to tighten them equally as to get really exact with the specs.
And tighten in a criss-cross pattern, not working around the cover from the first one
you do. Like start i.e. top right, then go bottom left, then top left, then bottom right.
And good any time you're tightening a sealing surface, be it O ring or gasket, to go in
at least a couple increments, not going all the way at once, and of course go over it
a final time to recheck.

I've got a little conversion program that converts just about anything to anything,
send me your email and I'll send you a copy. [email protected]

I think I can also send you a link to that maintenance manual, or a copy, I'll have to
look to see just where I've got it - it's either on my computer or I might even have
it on a file sharing website I can link you to.

EDIT: Here's one, don't think it's the big complete one but should have what you
need to do that job http://www.mediafire.com/?jlhu2wzujzy

[cswett]

That's very helpful, thanks. Any thoughts on the feeler gauge sizes. Are the SAE's close enough?

[R1150Rclean]

That's very helpful, thanks. Any thoughts on the feeler gauge sizes. Are the SAE's close enough?

That what I use and the valve job was good (i.e., quiet). Better a tad loose than too tight. Just make sure you have two of each, makes it easier to compare clearances if you have gauges in both valves at the same time.

[cswett]

Disaster narrowly averted. I bought two sets of gauges, but when I took them apart two of them stuck together so one of my exhaust gaps was actually two gauges thick. I didn't realize it until I had buttoned up the first cylinder and went to work on the second. So I had to go back and do the first cylinder exhaust valves again.
This is the second screw-up I've had in two tries of elementary wrenching on my new (to me) r1150r. When I changed my oil, I drained it and put the filler plug back in and then fired her up, without putting in oil. Caught my mistake in about 10 seconds, but it shook me up.. I might not be cut out for this wrenching stuff.

[sweatmark]

but it shook me up.. I might not be cut out for this wrenching stuff

Nope, gotta call BS on you there. You're in there doing your own work, and learning each step of the way. What percentage of motorcycle owners - or vehicle owners of any type - do something as mechanically significant as adjust valves and balance throttle bodies? Next to nil, I'd claim.

First time I pulled the fuel tank off an R1150R you would have thought I was performing neurosurgery. Hands sweaty, sphincter tight... I was James Bond choosing between red and blue wires before Fort Knox's gold was irradiated and the global economy consequently melted down. Now, I've got the tank off in 10 minutes, including beer sipping time, and sometimes do it JUST FOR FUN.

Nah, I think you're perfectly cut out to do your own wrenching, learn like we all do, and enjoy the process immensely.

[Buckster]

sweatmark is right....I've learned to do MOST of all required maintenance EXCEPT for valve adjustment and TB synch. Someone is going to have to hold my hand on those my first time!
Keep at it and use the resources from this site. It's a great place to learn. You may want to donate and become a member. It's money well spent!

[Dr. Strangelove]

totally agree
the common observations are:
sense of satisfaction
knowing it's done right--this occurs after you take a test ride after your work is done and you frigging FEEL it, grin and mutter "whoa!"
saving money


for conversion factor just google it, eg, "convert newton meters to kg inches" or whatever you're looking for and you will pull up MANY websites that you just plug in what you what.

One word of warning re valve covers, well, three:

The plastic seal needs to be fitted properly--it only goes on ONE way and it must be DRY, both the metal surfaces and the seal, otherwise you will weep oil
The retaining bolts can strip their seating if overly tightened
the washer/grommet/seal down deep in the center that surrounds the spark plug MUST be seated properly, and it is a little tricky. They do get old and a little stiff. It is not a bad idea to have a couple available and if youeven imagine you need to change one, do it. Incorrectly seated, a big mess of oil will come out when riding. My advice is after you have it together go for a short ride, like 10 miles or so and then look at that spark plug seal. Of course you cleaned that hole before reassembly so ANY oil pooling in there prob means taking the valve cover off and reseating it.

just my 2 cents, but I have been a victim of a poorly seated seal; what a mess!

btw, the jury is out on their longevity, but observing many threads on valve adj, it seems that 24k is pretty much what people think, though my plastic seals are still doing fine at 50k. Ihave changed the spark plug seals when they feel stiff and I am on my second pair at 50k. They both do not have to be changed if you change one.

Hope this helps, and it is pretty simple really and very satisfying. If you made models when you were a kid and could do so without getting glue all over, you can do this, too.


John

[Dr. Strangelove]

Disaster narrowly averted. I bought two sets of gauges, but when I took them apart two of them stuck together so one of my exhaust gaps was actually two gauges thick. I didn't realize it

That should NOT scare you away. That is a valuable learning experience. And it is a good point to notice and post. I have seen that happen, though I always caught it. I can see how it could be missed though.

Those little pitfalls are most valuable to point out and don't be afraid to share. Though you might say "Doh!" there is no such thing as a stupid question or observation. The people here are very helpful.

[cswett]

The plastic seal needs to be fitted properly--it only goes on ONE way and it must be DRY, both the metal surfaces and the seal, otherwise you will weep oil

Is the plastic seal the same as the valve cover gasket?
If so, I did dry all surfaces and am pretty sure I got it on correctly, but it didn't snap into place or anything. Will check for the oil weep.
Spark plug gasket/seal seemed in good shape. I rotated it 90 degrees like the Valve Adjustment for Dummies suggested and plopped it onto the inside of the valve cover.
My big concern now is getting the timing window cover on. What a hassle. I may have to just cover it with duct tape for the time being.

[R1150Rclean]

My big concern now is getting the timing window cover on. What a hassle. I may have to just cover it with duct tape for the time being.

Use a little oil to lube the inside edge of the plug and it will pop in. Hear you can get a better one form the dealer.

As for running it without oil for 10 sec., if you use synthetic you have no worries. With the original Mobil 1, they filled a car engine will Mobil 1, ran it, drained the oil, and then ran it "dry" for several hours and it did not seize while a car engine that had been filled with regular oil seized after several hours.

[Dr. Strangelove]

Is the plastic seal the same as the valve cover gasket?
If so, I did dry all surfaces and am pretty sure I got it on correctly, but it didn't snap into place or anything. Will check for the oil weep.
Spark plug gasket/seal seemed in good shape. I rotated it 90 degrees like the Valve Adjustment for Dummies suggested and plopped it onto the inside of the valve cover.
My big concern now is getting the timing window cover on. What a hassle. I may have to just cover it with duct tape for the time being.

Yes, same thing. It doesn't snap; it just fits properly, and it is pretty obvious. There may be a little oil at the bottom of the jugs for a day or so, but nothing that drips or is anything more than some greasy dirt--usually.

Valve Adjustment for Dummies is good. There is a video out there- maybe it's on Youtube by now-showing the valve adjustment. It may be on the R1200R, but it is a similar technique.
Having the timer cover in place is NOT mission critical. In fact, doing a search on this forum will bring up the situation of pushing it and losing it down the hole. No biggie; no worry. I use spit for lube and a long skinny tweezers to get it into position. But I may consider using a very slender screwdriver, piercing the cover with it, positioning it and pressing it on. Or a paper clip. This is NOT an airtight seal by any means and your duct tape idea is as good as any. See? You're learning already!

Just to reiterate what some other members have said. being a contributing member is a very good thing. Lots of expertise around and the price is right, and in no way do I consider myself an expert. It is just that there are some very simple maintenance things that the shadetree mechanic can do on these bikes that pay huge dividends. I still remember the first time I did a valve adjustment she was running so fine that I caught air in 2nd. My first Valve adjustment I did at 18k. At 24k 6 of the 8 were still spot on. Since then no adjustment has been necessary. That is typical.

John

[Biff's R]

My big concern now is getting the timing window cover on. What a hassle. I may have to just cover it with duct tape for the time being.

Don't take it out. Use the little arrows on the cam chain sprockets. Level with the ground and pointing out is TDC. CycleRob has a pic of it floating around here somewhere.

[taosports]

[rdsmith3]

All the above advice is good.

Here is a good conversion chart for torque specs.

http://www.thetoolhut.com/Torque-Conver ... etric.html

[The Velvet Monkey]

Go to advrider.com and look to the very bottom of the forum page. You'll see "Wisdom." Click on it an look for a heading titled OVAD. It will guide you step by step through the valve adjustment process and it's a good read even if you feel comfortable with the process already.

I've done mine 7 or 8 times and, while the job is now easier, it's the one maintenance job that always frustrates me. I have OCD, so I spend hours messing to get them perfect. But a valve adjustment followed by a TB adjustment (the easiest and most beneficial change you can make to ride quality) and the bike seems like magic.

I think the home mechanic will always care more about his or her bike and as a consequence will always do a better job.

Good luck and keep wrenching. It'll pay off.