timing plug - I cry uncle

[rdsmith3]

How do you get the stupid timing plug into the hole? It seems like you need foot long fingers to do it. What is the trick?

[challey]

Getting the stock plug back is very difficult - it's very flimsy and while it's hard to get to the spot where it fits, it's very easy once there to push it through into the flywheel area.

The solution is to replace the stock plug with the "He-man" version (part # 11-11-1-744-327). It's much thicker and easier to work with. You can manipulate into place with needle-nose pliers or stab it (lightly) with an awl and put it back on. Used to be about a buck at the dealer.

Charlie

[boxermania]

+1 for challey

If I remember correctly the part number above is for the plug on a GS model which is far beffier than the ones on the R1150R. Likewise, don't panic if yours has gone in the hole, forget it, it will not harm anything just go get you a new one for a GS.

[Dr. Strangelove]

I use a long fine bayonet forceps, liberated from an OR to place it in the proper position after it is lubed with spit and then I push.

But this might work: Straighten a coathanger. Make a small hole in the plug and insert the coathanger through that hole so that the plug is skewered by about an inch or so . It might be better to put a little bend on the inserted end to safeguard the plug. Now insert the protruding end of the coathanger into the timing hole and using it as a guide, push the plug, seating it. If you push too far the plug will still be held by the coathanger so it won't fall in.

It might be hell extracting it, but you can probably manipulate the coathanger and grab the plug with a needle nose pliers since the plug will still be right there, skewered by the coathanger.

I am going to try that next time, I think

At least you don't have to remove the tank first!

John

[towerworker]

Black electricians tape.

[taosports]

Mine took the fatal jump about 30K miles ago. I'm with Towerworker, I just use tape to cover the hole and leave it alone. No need to ever look in there since you can use the mark on the timing chain when adjusting valves.

[Daryl_stamp]

Use long pliers to hold it in approximate location with one hand and use the other to manipulate a flat blade screwdriver onto it's surface to hold it down; once held firm w/ a screwdriver put down the pliers and use a long 3/8" drive extension to push it into he hole & 'snap' in place. An extension is fat enough to not push it through the hole and sturdy enough to push it into place. Also requires an appropriate vocabulary and an absence of spectators.

DLS

[jfslater98]

And next time don't bother with the dopey plug. There's handy arrow on the gear wheel. When it's pointing outward, pull on the rockers. If they don't move on the side you're on, crank the wheel over until you see the arrow again. You should be OK.

[jm1515]

+1 on the timing chain gear arrow.
That TDC window cover is just stupid to work with........

[Dr. Strangelove]

pictures please on the timing gear arrow's position

how critical is the exact location of the arrow to get TDC--an inch or so or a mm?

[bmwdave52]

I got a very long, 8 in, set of pliers from my Snap On guy. Solved the problem.

[taosports]

pictures please on the timing gear arrow's position

how critical is the exact location of the arrow to get TDC--an inch or so or a mm?

Here ya go John :


Arrow needs to be horizontal like in photo. It's really no less accurate than looking into the timing hole and it's always right there in front of you when working on the valves.

[Boxer]

Bob, you better not lose that little rubber plug!

I like to take the plug out and turn the flywheel with the pulley nut under the alt. belt cover while shining a little flashlight into the hole. I can do both at the same time. I can't see those arrows and turn the flywheel simultaneously. Even knowing those arrows are there, I still like to do it by the book. Don't ask me why. There's a lot of things I do that don't make any sense in the world.

Replacing the rubber plug does take some finessing, but after a couple of times you will come up with a method that works for you. May the force be with you.

[rdsmith3]

Phil

The plug you graciously got me is safe and secure. It is lubed with jonnisnot, waiting to be inserted. So far I have tried needle nose pliers and a hemostat, neither of which worked.

I am with you -- I like to turn the flywheel with a big ratchet while peering into the timing hole.

[CycleRob]

The problem is the hole it goes into is oval shaped, wide on the top-n-bottom, narrow at the L & R sides. I tuck the cap's groove into the hole's 3 O'Clock surface, then use a screwdriver blade inside the cap's 9 O'Clock side, then push it toward the center while a 3/8ths drive extension pushes on the middle of the cap. Go slow with patience and it goes right into place.

TDC is easy to find by the compression resistance going to zero when the camshaft sprocket's arrows point horizontal, especially since you should NOT remove the sparkplugs until AFTER the valve adjustment. I've already covered why before . . . . the sparkplug threads dusting the exposed lower valve seat with carbon when you remove the plug, holding one valve open by the thickness of the grit the valve later closes on. That makes you set that one valve incorrectly. Trust me on this, it's real!


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[rdsmith3]

I got it! I used the technique recommended by cyclerob. thanks.

[Beaze]

Congrats! I hadn't heard of the gear arrow and was going to help my brother with his valves. That's a nifty piece of advice right there!

[jsparks6288]

I use a needle to thread some high test fishing line into the plug in a way that leaves a "u" shape on the back side of the plug that is going into the housing. I then tie both ends of the line to the bike somewhere so I can pull it back out if the plug falls inside or down beside the cylinder. I then get the plug into position with needle nose plyers or forceps and while pushing in at the center of the plug with a flat blade screwdriver I pull back gently on the fishing line to seat the plug.
If you have dropped several plugs into the housing in failed attempts to replace it don't worry because the rubber plugs when exposed to heat and grinding that occurs within the transmission / clutch housing will turn to a moly type lube that will naturally migrate upwards to lube your clutch spines. (At least that is my firm hope and belief.)
Good luck, thanks for the information in this post about not having to deal with plug by using the cam gears.
Jeff Sparks
2002 R1150R

[CycleRob]

The modesty of this man is excessive.

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[CycleRob]

About using the cam sprocket arrows to set TDC . . . . I was curious if a super accurate line up with the TDC hashmark on the engine's flywheel was necessary . . . . so . . . . I turned the crank pulley "away" from the TDC marks with feeler gages in place on the valves. The 1st choice was ¼ turn of the crankshaft, by any means a HUGE error visible on the cam sprocket that moved 1/8th turn. It was pointing downward on the right side to the 22.5 minutes after-the-hour position. The valve clearances, In or Ex did not change!!!

End of story. The 6th gear sprocket arrows win the debate and negates any need to remove that stupid rubber plug!! You'll only need to remove it if you're checking/adjusting the Hall sensor's ignition timing or for removing the camshaft sprocket(s) prior to head removal.

Since you should remove the belt cover for the required belt inspection, you can also use your 16mm boxwrench to turn the crankshaft while looking at the sprocket arrow alignment. If you don't have a 16mm boxwrench or you don't worry about the alternator belt (???) then you can use the 6th gear TDC cam sprocket arrow method. Using 6th gear on the centerstand, turn the rear wheel with the sparkplugs still in place until the cam sprocket arrow points horizontal. Leaving the plugs in actually helps you confirm TDC is approaching -and- when you just went past it if you're too impatient with the rear wheel rotational yanks. If/when you get to one of the 2 TDC settings, adjust the valves on the cylinder at TDC compression where the rockerarms have "clicky looseness". The other cylinder's valves will have ZERO clearance because it's on TDC of the exhaust or overlap stroke. Adjust those after the other side is set, then turn the crankshaft 1 complete turn and repeat the adjustment process.

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