R1150R Maintenance Decisions - Not because you asked

[MikeCam]

2002-2005 R1150RA 6000-12000 annual mileage.

Here's what I do. Others have views, not that I listen much (except for CycleRob, Boxermania, Boxer, and Dean)

Air filter - OEM, inspected semi-annually, replaced when really dirty. Also ream out the snorkle and remove critters and such.
Oil - Rotella T mineral diesel oil. Also Delo400 or Mobil Delvac.
Oil Filter - BMW OEM or AC delco PF53.
Oil Changed whenever I feel the need - usually between 3-6K, always at least semi-annually.
Transmission - Redline Heavy Shockproof. Changed bi-annually or when shifting becomes noticably 'different' under high heat-long usage.
Final Drive - Amalie 75-90 synth. Changed same as tranny.
Tires - Pilot Roads. Better combination of price, wear, stick.
Air - U.S. grade A, elevation 1000 feet; nearest smoggy metro 90 mi.
Brake Pads - EBC organic front and rear (no part number but they always give me the right fit)
Battery - Panasonic LC X1220P VRLA
Spark Plugs - Autolite 3923 or Bosch OEM
Valves - checked whenever I wake up early and the engine is totally ambient and I feel like it.
Throttle Body Synch - after a cold valve check when the engine shows any sign of non-gasoline related surge.
Light Bulbs- replace with higher wattage/brighter beam when needed. SilverStar but not Xenon HID.

Here is what I let the dealer do:
Bi-annual ABS flush and fill and clutch fluid flush and fill. (Maybe I'll do another some day)
TPS setting.
State inspection.
Fault code readings and corrections.

Here is what I wait and see:
Final drive failure.
Spline lube.
Clutch slave cylinder repair, replace.
Brake line replace w/ SS
Transmission dogs bent/tranny failure.

And here is what I mod:
Horn - Fiamm Blaster with new HD wires and 30 amp relay. Nautilus Stebel is a good choice, just haven't done it.
Tail bob. SE
Kisan SignalMinder SM5 set up for 8 sec delay and low intensity running lights.
BRAKE! module. Hyperlights are also good.
Battery Tender pigtail hard wired on 3 amp fuse to a SAE plug under seat, left side, reachable without removing seat.

Just sayin' HTH, YMMV, UAOR, FYYFF

[DSKYZD]

BRAKE! module.

Where do you find these? Which exact module?

After riding behind a few of you who have these I think they really make a difference. They're brighter than stock and the few flashes when the brakes are first applied really is an attention getter.

[MikeCam]

Every box is well labeled for which models it fits.

Your dealer has them. The module for R1150R is a bit twiddly to install (requires 3 hands, 20-15 vision, and steady fingers), IIRC the one for K1200 series and RS/RT (which will fit R1150R) are plug-n-play.

You can order direct, but the sole proprietor/inventor/manufacturer is focused on supplying distributors rather than individuals, so buying from a dealer shelf is preferable.

[DSKYZD]

Who's my dealer?

[MikeCam]

Greensboro had them last time I was in. Hammersley has them. Morton's has them.

If you call Morton's, ask for Seth or Pat in parts (Patricia is okay but she is more clothing and accessories oriented). Tell them what you are looking for and they will determine current stock, sell it over the phone, UPS/USPS it to you and charge a reasonable price - retail plus VA sales tax+shipping.

If you say, "Mike Cam suggested I call you for this." They might give you 10% off but don't demand it. (They will give me 10%-25% off but I buy bikes there at MSRP so they love me.)

[Boxer]

I put in my will that Cyclerob gets my bikes when I die. As a gesture of gratitude he has agreed to do all my maintenance for me. I just supply the parts......

Just kidding. But don't think I haven't thought about it.
Mike your maintenance schedule sounds similar to mine with a few variations. I use Mobile1 15-50 Synth and change it every 6K along with the FD using Redline Shockproof. Also I'm currently sporting Metzler ME880s and find them a little less trustworthy than the Pilots on the wet road. (remind me to tell you about last weekend)
Also, and this is a biggie, I use Atlanta suburbia air in my tires. It may not be the cleanest, but its really warm and dry.

[towerworker]

I like all that you recommend and said. Have but one thing to ask or add:

When it comes to air-----

Altitude here is approx 1514' AMSL, with just a tinge of natural gases (depending on whether or not the prevailing winds are wafting to or from the local farm pastures)

Should I add or subtract an appropriate amount from my tire pressures?


Towerworker

[riceburner]

I actually ride my bike ( ) so I change the oil every 6K (Castrol GP) and that works out at roughly 3 or 4 times a year - oil filter every time, air filter every other time. Plugs are now (so my UK dealer tells me) every 24K but I think I'll change em every 18 or so. TBs/ valves every other service. Everything else on a "need to do" basis.

Currently I need to fit a new battery - the current one appears to be not accepting any charge, which is useful! (mind you - it's well over 3 years old).

[irishbiker]

Thanks for that mikecam, really useful info to have as a new owner. I know you said you check your valve clearance quite often, is there an ideal mileage gap between doing it?

Also was looking around for some tools to buy, i.e feeler gauges, torque wrench, torx sockets and the like. Is a store like kragen ideal or would you recommend somewhere else?

[Biff's R]

irish,
I check the valves about every 6k miles, and some here with higheer milage bikes have gone to 12k miles. After 28.5k miles and 4 valve checks, I have only had to make any adjustment 1 time.

I have some feeler guages from Wirth. the torx sockets, and torque wrench could come from any quality store.

[MikeCam]

Irish, I do not know Kragen but around here (Mid-Atlantic) I've found all I need in a quality I accept from NAPA, Advance Auto, Pep Boys, LOwes, Sears, and Wal Mart.

One thing I have learned is that Torx sockets come in soft metals so that the socket head fails before you strip the fastener. I have in many cases searched for harder sockets (to last longer) and simply replace those (many) fasteners I manage to strip.

[boxermania]

Mike,

Excellent compilation, as a matter, of fact for the most part, I only differ from your list on two items and they are just personal choices.

Engine oil - Royal Purple 20W50

Tire inflation - Living on the Gulf Coast and considering my avoirdupois I use helium @ 100 psi on my tires as it significantly reduces tire wear and lightens the bike. I typically get 60K miles on the Pilot Roads and mileage is right around 75 mpg......

[jfslater98]

Yes, thanks for list. I hope you don't mind some Shadetree "N00b" questions (and how many I wound up having):

Oil - I'm sure this in one of the synth/dino threads, but what qualities of dino draws you to that vs. synthetic

Battery - Same with battery, what drew you to the Panasonic?

Valves - what's your average time for checking the valves? Meaning how long for you to get out the tools, take off the covers, cleanup, etc.

Throttle Body Synch - what tool(s) do you use for this?

Here is what I let the dealer do:
Bi-annual ABS flush and fill and clutch fluid flush and fill. (Maybe I'll do another some day)
TPS setting.
State inspection.
Fault code readings and corrections.

I am guessing you choose the dealer for these items because they are in the good part of the PITA/Price curve. How far away is your dealer from your home? Do they do bike loaners?

Here is what I wait and see:
Final drive failure.
Spline lube.
Clutch slave cylinder repair, replace.
Brake line replace w/ SS
Transmission dogs bent/tranny failure.

Are these items you send to the dealer? Or is that subject to mood?

TPS setting.

What is this? Do I have to put a cover sheet on it?

"Peter, did you get the memo about cover sheets?"

TIA

[Arbreacames]

Tire inflation - I use helium @ 100 psi on my tires as it significantly reduces tire wear and lightens the bike. I typically get 60K miles on the Pilot Roads and mileage is right around 75 mpg.....

Al, please add emoticons to differentiate "kidding= " and "burla (Spanish)=:twisted:".
At 40 psi, there is only about 1 ounce of air in a tire. Let's say that for 2 tires at 100 psi, you're saving about 5 oz. That's about the same as that Mars chocolate bar in your pocket!
Then, 100 psi would be twice the design limit on a tire.
Finally, 75 MPG? Are those Imperial gallons?
60k on the Pilot Roads!!! Oh, I get the joke!

[MikeCam]

Quoted: "Oil - I'm sure this in one of the synth/dino threads, but what qualities of dino draws you to that vs. synthetic Battery - Same with battery, what drew you to the Panasonic? Valves - what's your average time for checking the valves? Meaning how long for you to get out the tools, take off the covers, cleanup, etc. Throttle Body Synch - what tool(s) do you use for this? "

Oil - I've read hundreds of oil threads and many of the underlying fact sheets, research, credible and incredible testimonials and arguments. Somewhere along the line I wanted to simplify my personal agony. The diesel oils have all that's needed, are readily available, and inexpensive. Caveats: a) at least one source states that the diesels can be detrimental to the catalytic converter somehow. I don't bother worrying about that. b) I don't race, wheelie, stoppie or hoon around. I am a geezer. I just ride. So my oil is not subjected to all the potential stresses that others' are.

Battery - Same basic story. I read a bunch. The Westco brand sold by many dealers is a re-badged Panasonic. The Panasonic is significantly less expensive, available with only a little effort (mail order via a wholesale distributor) and robust enough. Caveat: It is designed for UPS service and is not warranted for vibration, shock, or temperature extremes. But it performs well. The Odyssey PC680 is a top choice with virtually no naysayers out there. It is twice as expensive as the Panasonic.

Valves - Two things. I check them when I feel like it. That translates into at least every year, more often twice a year or between 5-10K miles. It takes me 40-60 minutes. But I am slow, deliberate, weak eyed, disorganized and a left-handed dyslexic. As a matter of record, I have only once needed to adjust valves on an BMW. I have owned or maintained 3 Airheads, 4 K bikes, and 7 Oilhead models since 1976. I imagine the dealers or prior owners have in fact made an adjustment. But my experience is that once adjusted (near the end of the break-in period), they stay adjusted forever.

TBS - I made a manometer using ATF fluid from plans I found on some BMW bike site. I am bad at chasing the levels - it takes me longer than it should. I do, however, try to achieve a steady balance from idle to 4500 rpm, which is not what is called for in the spec. It's just what I do.

End of Part 1.

[MikeCam]

"I am guessing you choose the dealer for these items because they are in the good part of the PITA/Price curve."

Exactly. For me, one ABS brake fluid flush was enough. The dealer is set up to do these things, he has the tools, the experience, and I trust my service shop. Price is higher than I'd like, but fair.

How far away is your dealer from your home? 75 miles. I have several routes to go and return. It is a ride, not a trip to the dealer.

Do they do bike loaners? Yes. I usually wait for the work. 2-4 hours. I have a very good relationship with my dealer, owner, sales staff, parts desk, service and shop. I am patient and I never complain publicly. They move my work to the front of the day's effort, they treat me well, they do quality service and repairs. They give free advice about those things I do myself. I get parts, service, and accessories discounts.

MikeCam wrote: Here is what I wait and see: Final drive failure. Spline lube. Clutch slave cylinder repair, replace. Brake line replace w/ SS
Transmission dogs bent/tranny failure.

Are these items you send to the dealer? Or is that subject to mood?

No, sorry for the confusion. Across the realm of BMW internet knowledge, these are the items that may fail at some point - either from normal wear and tear, bad design, or random chance. It is my list of things I will not panic about if/when it happens to me. I'll just work with the dealer to get it fixed and accept that it happened.


TPS setting. What is this? The Throttle Position Sensor is an electro-mechanical thing-a-ma-jig, whatsis that has an impact on the Motronic adjustment of the fuel-air mix (along with the O2 sensor, the temperature sensor and the exhaust gas sensor and whatever else there is). TPS needs to be set to a controlling voltage between .370mA and .410 mA with .390 being dead on balls accurate and precise. Many are found to be way off - .250mA for instance. It can be tested and set by the DITY owner but CycleRob (or maybe it was Dean) once warned me to NOT DO THIS AT HOME. So I let the dealer do it.

End Part 2.

Minor edit: On the other thread that mentions TPS you will find two quoted values for the TPS voltage range. Those two and mine above are all different! Pick your poison.

[boxermania]

Mike

You are right....the TPS voltage should be in the .370 mv to .410 mv as mentioned before.

Let it be known that a lot of the earlier bikes were outside these limits, which exacerbated their running. Likewise and in relation to the surging issue some of the BMW Techs would increase the TPS voltage to .410 mv or close to it as a precursor to enrichening the fuel mixture at idle.

The idea behind this is that at normal highway speeds, you have a minimal throttle opening and elevating the base voltage (idle) also raised the steady state counterpart by the same amount, hence richening the mixture at that speed as well.

On the other hand,one should not exceed the 410 mv because the Motornic recognizes that range as the idle range. One of the reasons to crank the throtle WOT during the reseting of the Motronic is to re-define the min and max ranges.

I'm not disputing anything previously said, just adding a bit of the technical mumbo-jumbo.

[boxermania]

Carlos

It's close to Christmas and you should try to be nicer to people, specially me.......I think the Mars reference was over the line.....don't you know by now that I like Zero's and Cuba libres????

BTW, when can I expect back that left handed adjustable metric wrench that I loaned you a couple of years ago......

Felices Pascuas......

[Arbreacames]

Al, sorry about the wrench but it's the only one that fits the counter-rotating splined clevis retainer.

Feliz Navidad!

[Beemeridian]

7t8