R1150R Handling Improvement?

Topics related to the ownership, maintenance, equipping, operation, and riding of the R1150R.

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Robert_winter_1000
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Post by Robert_winter_1000 »

wncbmw wrote:Robert_winter-1000 (you need to explain that screen name! :P)
Hello wncbmw,
The screen name! hhmmm.. :p It is easy! It looks that there are so many Robert Winter(s) that the 1000 is the only one left for me! :lol:
regards
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Post by wncbmw »

OK Robert_Winter_1000! But you are the first I know! :lol:
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Post by DJ Downunder »

Does anyone know the effect of the bar-backs/risers on the handling of the bike? I installed one from Wunderlich but to be honest,I don’t see the difference.
I'm no expert...but here's my 2 cents worth.

Riding in a straight line you will notice no difference.

But when you tip it into a corner at speed you need to bend your elbows and get your weight more forward..

Using barbacks would just cause you to bend even more at the elbows.

I think it also depends on how tall you are..and how long your arms are..I'm 6'4" with long arms.

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Post by Erik Stordahl »

ok, so now I have rolled my bars forward and am liking the reach. I am not liking the brake and clutch to be all the way rolled over, how does one adjust that? I was looking for screws to loosen and am not sure what one to loosen to roll the brake and clutch back to a normal position.
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Post by Buckster »

I was wondering the same thing...tried loosening some screws and nothing moved and I didn't want to screw anything up!
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Post by DJ Downunder »

There is an easy way to rotate them but I'm not sure how..I'm sure someone else will know.

But I would suggest leaving them for a while because you will get used to the new position and IMO they are much better and the new lever angle is another reason that I moved mine.

I raced Mt bikes for years and we set our levers up pointing down at about the same angle as the forks..so when you are standing going downhill you can get to your levers easy and not have to lift your fingers up and over to grab the brakes..It also makes getting onto the brakes while riding seated quicker..So on the motorcycle it makes for safer riding..IMO..even if not riding standing.

You may need to rotate them back a little for doing brake fluid top ups but the guys that did mine recently said they did not have to move them.

It just feels a little odd at first but stick with it for a while and then see what you think.

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Post by dgates »

I was at the dealer and asked the same question (about rotating the grip back).
The mechanic grabbed the whole unit with both hands and twisted it back without loosening any screws.
Only charged me $80. Just kidding!
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Post by Erik Stordahl »

ok, how about this.... Has anyone changed their handle bars for a straight set or less bend? Done at the dealer or at home?
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Post by Ves »

Erik Stordahl wrote:ok, how about this.... Has anyone changed their handle bars for a straight set or less bend? Done at the dealer or at home?
At home: http://r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?t=10991
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Post by DJ Downunder »

ok, how about this.... Has anyone changed their handle bars for a straight set or less bend? Done at the dealer or at home?
I think you may have tank clearance problems.

When I first bought my bike I wanted to put a shorter flat bar on..but it was not worth the hassles to do it..I'm used to mine now and I'm happy.

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Post by scribblin »

Capt. Blackadder (or anyone who might know),

Newbie question: Do the Sport Rider suspension settings dramatically change the overall ride quality? My wife rides with me every weekend and she has a fused L5 in her back. I like the idea of improving cornering capabilities, but I'll pass if it makes for a rough straight-up ride. Thoughts?
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Post by ruddy »

Erik Stordahl wrote:ok, so now I have rolled my bars forward and am liking the reach. I am not liking the brake and clutch to be all the way rolled over, how does one adjust that? I was looking for screws to loosen and am not sure what one to loosen to roll the brake and clutch back to a normal position.
There's a clamp allen screw under the plastic covers. To remove them, you have to remove three screws. The first one is easy, it's the one you see at the rear. The second one is on the bottom of the assembly. The third one is hidden behind the mirror stem, so you have to remove the mirrors to get at it. There's a nut at the bottom of the mirror stem that requires an allen wrench to remove. You can see the one on the left side. After removing a mirror, you'll see a tiny screw at the back side of the hole that requires a small (#1) cross-point screwdriver. Once that's removed, you'll be able to rotate the cover to the rear to access the clamp.

It's a hassle to get at, but it's definitely worth the effort to get the levers adjusted to the correct angle for your hands. While you have the mirrors removed, you may wish to try the "buzzing mirror" fix described in this thread: http://www.r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.php?t=10043.
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Post by Buckster »

Thanks Rick.
Scribblin, I am not sure what the Sport Rider setting is but usually setting the shock for 2 up riding is going to be a little stiffer depending where you have yours set when riding solo.
I keep mine set as if I were riding 2 up but usually never do.
Where do you ride in Naples? I used to live there and never even wanted to ride there.
Pretty Scarry!
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Post by fj_pastor »

Hello !!

To rotate the brake & clutch assembly, just untigthen a bit the screw
you can see from the bottom and loose a bit nut that holds the mirrrors
in place.

With a firm hand, grab the mirror bar and you can turn the assembly
to where you want.

I did not need to hassle with anything else.

Best regards
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ruddy
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Post by ruddy »

Your lever assemblies must not have been as tight as mine were. I don't think loosening that one screw would have done anything, but unscrewing the mirrors would have helped.
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scribblin
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Post by scribblin »

Buckster wrote: Scribblin, I am not sure what the Sport Rider setting is but usually setting the shock for 2 up riding is going to be a little stiffer depending where you have yours set when riding solo.
I keep mine set as if I were riding 2 up but usually never do.
Where do you ride in Naples? I used to live there and never even wanted to ride there.
Pretty Scarry!
:lol: True!

I'm a bit of an adrenaline junkie, so I ride everywhere, though riding between I-75 and the coast when snowbirds are present is tantamount to taking one's life in one's hands!

There are more bike nights here on a weekly basis than anyone could physically attend, and rides through the Everglades, or going north and south along the coast, or out to various islands -- it's all good. The best for me (still) is riding US 1 across Seven Mile Bridge on the way to Key West.

I ride every day now, having parked the car almost two years ago. With the R1150R, I'll have heated grips for the first time in "winter." That'll be handy (pun intended) during that week or so of bitter January mornings when the temp can plunge all the way to 47F or so. :wink:

The aforementioned suspension settings are as follows:
front rebound -- 0.5 turn from stiff
rear preload -- 4 lines showing
rear rebound -- 1.25 from full stiff

Now if I only knew what any of that meant and how to accomplish those things, I'd be in business! :?

I wonder...has anyone here ever taken their R1150R to a track day? What settings? What other mods?
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Post by Buckster »

If you have your owners manual, it will tell how to adjust those settings. Yuo will have to see what suits you. I adjusted all mine ti the stiffest settings and worked backward from there.
I keep my rear preload to the stiff 2 up position, My rear shock about halfway and have my front set about 1 turn off the softest setting.
Everyone is different and I am sure aftermarket is the way to go to really get it right.
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ken k
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Post by ken k »

Some of you mentioned other bars for your R. Is there a way to get RS style clip ons on the R? or at least narrower and lower bars. I love the RS seating position. There was a nice used RS at my dealer this summer, but Iwhen I asked the wife I got that "look."

I will try the rotating of the bars a bit.

ken k
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scribblin
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Post by scribblin »

Buckster wrote:If you have your owners manual, it will tell how to adjust those settings. Yuo will have to see what suits you. I adjusted all mine ti the stiffest settings and worked backward from there.
I keep my rear preload to the stiff 2 up position, My rear shock about halfway and have my front set about 1 turn off the softest setting.
Everyone is different and I am sure aftermarket is the way to go to really get it right.
Buckster, thanks!

In your opinion, how do your settings affect the straight-up ride quality? Is it a dramatic change, or just less soft? (My wife has a bit of a bad back.)

Also, I'd like to reduce the bike's tendency rise and then plow under hard acceleration and shifting. When I do 4,000+ rpm shifts, particularly in first and second, the bike (not the front tire, though) rears up on the forks and then plummets and leaps again as gears are changed. I don't mean that I'm shifting roughly and getting some engine braking because of bad timing. I'm shifting fairly smoothly (always room for improvement) but I'm getting this body lift that is fairly dramatic (for what I'm used to). It's kind of cool but also worrisome when it plows for that split second. Quite a ride.
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Post by ruddy »

ken k wrote:Some of you mentioned other bars for your R. Is there a way to get RS style clip ons on the R? or at least narrower and lower bars. I love the RS seating position. There was a nice used RS at my dealer this summer, but Iwhen I asked the wife I got that "look."

I will try the rotating of the bars a bit.

ken k
Since the R takes conventional bars, there are probably 100s to choose from. If you wish to keep the original silver color, just get black ones and paint them. :wink:
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