No front brakes

[opposedtwin]

New to forum so I want to say hello to everyone and hope to make my first post understandable. Recently I had to replace a front brake hose on my 02 BMW R1150R because of a leak. Brake failure light and the check (?) light to its left was alternately blinking. Replaced hose but still have the lights blinking and there is no brake lever resistance when applying front brakes. Lever pulls to handlebar but has no braking effect. When applying rear brake I can hear a whirring noise, servo I assume, and rear brake seems to work properly but I haven't tried riding bike yet. Blade fluid levels are ok. I have no experience with the type of brakes on this motorcycle and I am at a loss on what to attempt to solve this problem (short of taking it to a dealer). What do you suggest?

[Sunbeemer]

Welcome, opposedtwin. Good handle!
You've found the best place on the web to get closest to the correct answers to questions you have about your R1150R.

While I don't have ABS and am not an expert, it sure sounds like you need to bleed air out of the brake line between the brake lever and the ABS servo pump (control circuit?)

[reidmct]

You need to do two things:

1. Figure out which type of ABS you have. I think oyu have Integral ABS, but I might be wrong.

2. Seach this forum to find links to illustrated step-by-step how-to guides on bleeding ABS systems.

Or, take it to an authorized dealer. The fluid level you checked is just one of two separate hydraulic circuits for the front brakes. There is another circuit whose fluid level is undoubtedly very low and probably also heavily air-laden. You must either search/learn/do, or take it to someone who has.

Good luck!

[hank]

Where did you check the fluid level? At the master cylinder on the handlebar or the ABS unit under the tank?
With servo ABS bikes the fluid in the master cylinder never reaches the brake caliper, it flows only as far as the ABS control unit. From there a separate circuit sends the fluid to the brakes.

Do a search for servo ABS bleed

[opposedtwin]

Thanks for your replies and suggestions. I checked fluid levels at only the mastercylinder (handlebar) and rear brake resevoir and was surprised that the levels were ok even though a fair amount of brake fluid had leaked out. Guess I need to do what y'all advised and learn more about how to bleed the servo unit. Being ignorant is a real handicap, lol.

[hank]

Here are a couple of video's that will help

http://youtu.be/YLM25NYvlas

http://youtu.be/a1ktxY_bgQY


Hope you get it fixed and back on the road soon.

[opposedtwin]

Thanks Hank. Videos are a great help!

[hank]

Here's a video from Sweatmark of this forum showing how to remove the tank.

http://youtu.be/pXbNYhDNpkg

[opposedtwin]

Follow up report: Ok, with your help I have made progress but still have problems. The servo for the front brakes was empty and I added fluid and attempted to bleed air from the system. Now my front brake works (stops) as before but the brakes don't completely release and the brake failure light is still flashing. Rear brakes seem to be working properly. Do you think I didn't bleed all air from the system and that is causing the front brakes to stay engaged?

[towerworker]

I think you still have air in the circuit from the servo unit to the front caliper. You need the filling adapter shown here among maybe a few other things.
http://www.mindspring.com/~jabrooks/

The above link is invaluable if you plan to do your own service. Doing a complete brake system bleed is easiest if you have a helper. Be methodical and take your time.

Wayne

[opposedtwin]

Despite all your good advice and pictoral help I can't seem to resolve my problem. One thing I have become very good at though is taking the tank on and off! There is one bleeder valve on the servo for the front brakes that I cannot get open. It's just refuses to budge and that may be part of the problem. Mostly, it's an overload of ignorance. After the bleeding process I apply the front brake and it works and feels great but the brake pads don't fully release and I can feel them dragging against the rotors. In a few seconds they do release, however, the brake failure light is still blinking. I saw a comment when checking other threads that converting back to conventional brakes was an option and inexpensive too but there was no explanation on how to do it. I know, you're thinking it may not be so simple that this hillbilly can do it. Whatta you think, should I make a parts bike out of it?

[iowabeakster]

I wouldn't scrap the bike, at least not just for this.

Here's a link for removing the ABS, sweatmark did it on a Rockster. It is even easier on a roadster, because the speedo is not electronic, so you don't need to worry about that at all. For you its basically a couple (simple) changes to the fluid plumbing, and getting the brake light to work.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=13571&hilit=abs+removal#p121347

I am also sure that spending money at a dealership (as bad as they may stab you), to get things right, would return far more value than selling it for parts.

[Sunbeemer]

I wouldn't do anything rash. This problem can be solved. That stuck bleeder screw is likely the problem. You can get it off using the correct size 6-point socket. Sears sells them seperately for a few bucks if you don't have one. I would squirt a little penetrating oil (like PB Blaster, Nuts-Off or Liquid Wrench) around the base of the bleeder and lightly tap on the top repeatedly with a brass drift to work the fluid in and let it sit for a while, then try to break it loose with the socket. The 6-point will help not to round of the flats on it, but still, don't hunker down on it. If it won't budge, squirt it and tap it again and let it sit for a while before trying again. I would not squirt any fluid inside the bleeder screw hole, in fact, if it has rubber dust cap on it, leave it on. That stuff is not compatible with anything in your brake system, and you don't want to risk contaminating internal parts. You might even have to let it sit overnight for the penetrating fluid to work it's magic before trying again. Try to use sharp sudden force to break it loose, like thumping the end of the ratchet with the palm of your hand while your other hand holds the ratchet's socket firmly on the screw (so you don't bend it and bust it off), but again, don't use too much force. It will come!

Good Luck.

[opposedtwin]

Finally, after repeatedly soaking the stuck bleeder valve with penetrating oil it came loose! Mangled but loose. I repeated the now, well known steps of the bleeding process and I have brakes and the brake failure light isn't flashing. I roadtested the bike and it stopped great but there is still a noticeable millisecond after releasing the front brake lever that the brakes haven't completely released. Hoping that will go away soon. There didn't seem to be air in the system on the last bleeding. I will be (cautiously) riding the bike over the weekend and will give a final recap after that. I know all of you will be happy for me to stop my whining. In the meantime thanks to everyone for your help. Couldn't have got this far without you!