clutch problems after 12000 mi

[reef]

Hi,everybody I have posted previously post about noise what my bike developed just after 12000 mi.So this sqeaking noise coming from clutch.After talking with cycle rob on the phone sat. we think that is probably lack of lube on splines which would ultimately lead to splines failure.Repair cost in the dealership around $ 1500.Symptoms are sqeaking noise on idle,sticking downshifting(just little bit).When you pull clutch noise stop.It looks like my bigest fear of internal failure did finally come true.I went to dealer this past sat.and two mechanics who had listen the noise estabilished that there is really nothing wrong and therefore nothing to worry about.Literaly "yeah i can hear but i don't know what is it,it will probably go away later"so no issue here.I owe quite bit of $ on the bike and I can justify 1500 dollars repair cost,so I will have to tacke it myself.So far my friend Touchton is willing to help which would be an exelent learning ground for both of us.Iam affraid,puzzled and excited all together.Never done anything like that in my life so we shall see.Plan of action is to take tranny and f/d at one piece out behind clutch,while in it,replace clutch plate(cost $140 at bob's) and service what is accesible to us after taking apart.(thanks to cycle rob advice)
Now what I was wondering if you guys can help me out with my reserch on subject,(no i don't want you to do it for me nor I am lazy)because more people know more info.I don't know all the links to the web pages.Any sort of link or advice what I should be aware of will be most helpfull.
I also have decided to write letter of disapoitment,to BMW motorrad in germany since I could speak their language.I know that iam irrelevant to them but maybe with some luck this leter will end in hands of somebody competent for a change.I will stay loyal to roundrel because Iam not that kind of man who with first sign of trouble just walk away,but I feel betrayed by their slogans of lasting motorcycles on the road ect.I know that every machine break no problem but after only 12000 not even hard miles that just sems a bit unfair.Well thank you so much for your help,with my struggle. Mark

[Lobo1625]

Reef,
I've heard of people doing spline lubes by removing just the starter and using small bent tubing to get the lube into the splines. If you do go all out and pull the tranny, make sure and take lots of pictures to document everything. I for one am curious about the wear pattern on your bike's input shaft. What year bike do you ride? As far as the measurements to take, Boxermania would be the one to talk to in regards to that, as he already has some data accumulated.

[reef]

Lobo if you know more about lube thru starter hole please do tell.I try to avoid disassembly in all cost,at least for now.You would give me beam of light of hope. thanks Mark

[touchton]

Mark came over today and we looked at his clutch issue. Looking at the clutch fluid, it appears to me the slave cylinder is leaking. Here the crap we pulled out of the reservoir:
My guess is the failed slave it also causing the noise. At least the slave is a more pressing issue than the noise.

My clutch slave failed a few years ago and was repaired by the dealer. The fluid looked much the same. What all has to be removed to get to this thing? What parts are needed to make the repairs?

.

[Boxer]

Hey! I'm an expert on this now!
You need to take the rear shock out. remove the footpeg plate screws on both sides. The top one doubles as a frame support bolt and will have RED loctite on it. NOTE: DANGER HERE! Make sure you use the T-45 Torx on the bottom two and the T-50 on the big main one that loosens the frame. Then loosen the other two front frame bolts, taking out the bottom one s up front. This makes it so you can lift up the sub frame slightly, placing a bolt or something under it at the back to keep it up about 1/2 inch. The footpeg plates can just dangle free. Remove the crossmember bar underneath blocking access to the slave cylinder. Take out the three small bolts holding in the slave. Disconnect the fluid lines, making note of how they are oriented on the connection. You will need 4 more washers to put those back together. The slave will need a new green gasket. You can take that slave apart and clean it out. If the bore is smooth like mine was, just clean it with some fresh DOT 4 fluid and put it back together then reinstall it. Rob drilled a small drain hole in the bottom of mine in case it started leaking. See the thread from where I did it.

Replace it with the three screws and reattach the fluid lines, then put the frame back together and bleed/fill the fluid back into it. It's easy to fill and bleed.

Again, the roughest part was getting that top frame bolt out which was installed with loctite. You may want to heat the bar from underneath first.
Good luck.

[touchton]

You da man Phil! We won't do this until after the Bash, so we can talk more about it there. Are you saying it may not need to be replaced? A good cleaning may fix this? I'll have more time late this week to look at the thread where you detail your experience. Thanks for the response.

Thad

[oiasghar]

Mark,

Your description is eerily similar to what I was experiencing. You may have already reviewed this link but here is my original post on this subject. The bike is now fixed with a lot of help from another member (Lobo1625) on the forum.

http://www.r1150r.org/board/viewtopic.p ... &sk=t&sd=a

Obaid

[reef]

Hi,thank you all who replied to my inquiry.Somewhat I am relieved that we found a potencional problem for sqeaking noise what really freak me out.Thad has been enormously helpfull.Maybe I would be able to avoid splines issue at least for now.Replace slave cylinder seems to be more easier than tranny.Hopefully fix the clutch will take care of that damn noise. Thanks again Mark