BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Here it is :
http://www.flickr.com/photos/rockburner ... 8211/show/

For starters:
get out the tools.

Adjustable pliers
hex key
brake cleaner
hi-temp brake grease
copaslip
needle pliers or circlip pliers
toothbrush.
gloves
I have a seat that makes life a lot easier.
The correct material for absorption is critical.


Loosen the caliper bolts (don't remove them yet)


Take off the spring retaining screws (they're tiny so take care)



The definition of manky brakes!


hoik out the retaining pin with the circlip/needle pliers


slide out the retaining pin. This one was a bit stuck but came out with a bit of twisting, utilising a set of gripped needle nose pliers.


Here's where the brake cleaner comes in....



... and the toothbush.


using the brake lever, push the pistons out a BIT (this is about as far as you want to take it. One trick I use is to keep the old pads in place and use them as "stops" to prevent the pistons extruding too far.) You can see the lines where the dirt has been pushed past the weather seal.


once you have all the crap off, (this particular job wasn't perfect, I'd need to strip the calipers completely to get all of it off - mainly because I left the bike filthy for 8 weeks. ), use the adjustable pliers and one of the old brake pads to squeeze the pistons back. Be careful the opposing pistons don't push out further.


give the calipers another going over with the toothbrush once you get the pistons all the way back in.


Give the spring plate a clean.


This brush is a Bonsai tree soft brass bristle brush for cleaning the tree trunks - PERFECT for cleaning things like this.


BMW's hi-temp brake grease. you want a bit more than this for the back of each caliper.


I spread the grease by rubbing the calipers together back to back.


a clean retaining pin.


a nicely greased pin - note the glob of grease on the end. This is important. This is how i could slip the retaining pin out of the filthy caliper after 3 months of winter. When you put the pin back in - ensure that glob of grease stays on the end until it gets into the blind hole in the caliper. Also see the pads back in the caliper, if you're careful they'll sit there for the time being.


caliper back together and on the disc.


copaslip on the caliper bolt.


smear the copaslip into the threads. Make sure the end of the bolt is clear of copaslip.


Copaslip on the spring plate screw. DON'T get it on your fingers - cos you'll drop the fecker getting it back into the caliper!


Almost there. Get the spring plate screws in before tightening up the caliper bolts.


30Nm according to the handbook...... (I normally just do them up as tight as I can by hand)


pump up the brakes again before you move to the next caliper and do it all again!



Now to bleed em...

All you need is the right screwdriver, a 10m spanner, some hose, a wine bottle (yes the vintage helps.... ) and more fluid.


I have duct tape over the reservoirs to keep the joins clean from insect debris and crap.


Even so - give the reservoirs a clean with brake cleaner and a rag.



Keep the reservoir as flat as possible when filling.


Keep the rubber seal over the reservoir while you work - you don't necessarily need to put the whole cover back on.


The caliper kit.


Hook the hose to the bleed nipple, make sure the bottle is in a stable position.


Make sure the spanner has plenty of room for manouvre.


Pressurise the system by pumping the lever about 5 times, then HOLD it tight. Then release the pressure at the bleed nipple by turning the spanner. As SOON as the fluid stops moving close the nipple again. Repeat this a few times, checking every 5 or 6 cycles to check the fluid in the resevoir.


get everything done up and tidied away - new tape for the resevoir.


Any questions??

Thanks for the detailed description. Any idea if bleeding the calipers as shown is the same for the bikes with anti lock brakes? I know that to bleed out the whole system required more effort.

fallingpines wrote:Thanks for the detailed description. Any idea if bleeding the calipers as shown is the same for the bikes with anti lock brakes? I know that to bleed out the whole system required more effort.

I don't know tbh - I've not done this on an ABS bike, and tbh I wouldn't want to try! I think the system is too complex for it's own good. I have a feeling though that the ABS system is "self-bleeding" somehow.

I am somewhat confused.

Your bike looks bloody clean in those photos, but the fact that you were changing pads and bleeding the system suggests that your bike hadn't been in for a service........

Excellent post Riceburner, perfect for those of us who are mechanicaly challenged

Thx Riceburner,

This is another one I will be putting in my "Maintenance Manual for the R1150R" that I have been piecing together from this board.

Great job!

Beancounter wrote:I am somewhat confused.

Your bike looks bloody clean in those photos, but the fact that you were changing pads and bleeding the system suggests that your bike hadn't been in for a service........

I never let them touch the brakes, they can't get them bled as well as I can.

Great Post, Riceburner. I see you have the same brand "workbench" that I do.

Cheers Rice, I'll be changing the fluid before long myself. Sticking has been cured by a mini clean up and the pads are OK yet. Is it OK to leave the top cover off and pump the lever then? I'd have screwed it back down tight every time if I hadn't seen this.

chris wrote:Cheers Rice, I'll be changing the fluid before long myself. Sticking has been cured by a mini clean up and the pads are OK yet. Is it OK to leave the top cover off and pump the lever then? I'd have screwed it back down tight every time if I hadn't seen this.

As long as you keep a close eye on the level. do NOT let it empty - if it does, you're in for a LOT of pumping!

4563

James,

Did you not do the rear pads at the same time? I'm having mucho aggro releasing the 'keeper' pin.

Beancounter wrote:James,

Did you not do the rear pads at the same time? I'm having mucho aggro releasing the 'keeper' pin.

Ah, yes, the Brembo (IIRC) retaining pin....

I actually did all this again recently so the memory should be fresh in my mind... errrr...


oh yeah. You have to use a small drift and knock the pin out with a hammer. It's got a retaining spring/collet wrapped around a waisted section which is hidden within the body of the calliper. I use a very small hex key (the one that fits the screws holding the front brake anti-rattle springs is the right diameter I think).

it's a bit awkward but you can knock the retaining pin out (iirc it come out of the back of the calliper, ie towards the wheel, so you can't do it on the bike).

To refit it, I use the expanding pliers as shown above to get the pin back in.

Next time I do it I'll do another "How to", but if you want some help give me a ring.

chris wrote:Cheers Rice, I'll be changing the fluid before long myself. Sticking has been cured by a mini clean up and the pads are OK yet. Is it OK to leave the top cover off and pump the lever then? I'd have screwed it back down tight every time if I hadn't seen this.

Chris, I just realised that you're ok with the metal cover off, but DO replace the rubber insertover the reservoir. As you pump the brake lever the initial pressure (until the piston closes the hole to the resevoir), will feedback into the reservoir and shoot fluid over your shoulder (if you're lucky!!). Having the rubber insert back on prevent the fluid escaping.

Great instructions! I'm sure that wil help out a few people with brake maintenance. I like the detail on cleaning the calipers - probably somethnig that usually gets overlooked.

Bleeding a bike with ABS is very different, since they have two circuits for each wheel (total of four hydraulic systems to bleed). One is the control circuit from the lever to the ABS unit (under the tank), and the wheel circuit goes from the ABS unit to the caliper. The control circuit is like a normal bleed but you'll need a special tool for bleeding the wheel circuits. IT can be done at home with the special tool (it's really a funnel with an adapter to 'plug' into the ABS unit for adding brake fluid while bleeding).

riceburner wrote:

Beancounter wrote:James,

Did you not do the rear pads at the same time? I'm having mucho aggro releasing the 'keeper' pin.

Ah, yes, the Brembo (IIRC) retaining pin....

I actually did all this again recently so the memory should be fresh in my mind... errrr...


oh yeah. You have to use a small drift and knock the pin out with a hammer. It's got a retaining spring/collet wrapped around a waisted section which is hidden within the body of the calliper. I use a very small hex key (the one that fits the screws holding the front brake anti-rattle springs is the right diameter I think).

it's a bit awkward but you can knock the retaining pin out (iirc it come out of the back of the calliper, ie towards the wheel, so you can't do it on the bike).

To refit it, I use the expanding pliers as shown above to get the pin back in.

Next time I do it I'll do another "How to", but if you want some help give me a ring.

I'll have a look at the weekend, but I've a feeling I'll be calling you.

Beancounter wrote:

riceburner wrote:

Beancounter wrote:James,

Did you not do the rear pads at the same time? I'm having mucho aggro releasing the 'keeper' pin.

Ah, yes, the Brembo (IIRC) retaining pin....

I actually did all this again recently so the memory should be fresh in my mind... errrr...


oh yeah. You have to use a small drift and knock the pin out with a hammer. It's got a retaining spring/collet wrapped around a waisted section which is hidden within the body of the calliper. I use a very small hex key (the one that fits the screws holding the front brake anti-rattle springs is the right diameter I think).

it's a bit awkward but you can knock the retaining pin out (iirc it come out of the back of the calliper, ie towards the wheel, so you can't do it on the bike).

To refit it, I use the expanding pliers as shown above to get the pin back in.

Next time I do it I'll do another "How to", but if you want some help give me a ring.

I'll have a look at the weekend, but I've a feeling I'll be calling you.

Bring the new pads down to mine and we can do it here if you want?

OK, I need to know what"copaslip" is. Anything like anti seize?

OU812 wrote:OK, I need to know what"copaslip" is. Anything like anti seize?

it's a copper based grease, there's molecules of copper metal in it. Its best used for lubricating threads but I don't use it on ANYTHING else.

Some people will say to use copaslip on the backs of the pads but I prefer to use high-temp silicon based grease (as shown in the photos).

The thing about copaslip is that if you use it on a moving part is CAN cause wear - becuase the molecules of copper can act like grit and "polish" the parts. It's ideal for use as a "lightweight/temporary" threadlock because it will resist undoing ever so slightly. (imho).

Be warned though - using anything on threads will effectively nullify the usefulness of a torque wrench. Anything on the threads will effect the actual torque you put in. That's why it's very useful to develop the "mechanics touch" for doing up bolts and screws. (I can still be a little hamfisted at times I will admit!)

Thanks riceburner, I will try the grease as you noted, as I have some from my auto job just completed. It is a grease for the sliders on auto brakes, and it is synthetic. I think it would be good for the application as you used it.
The copaslip, I will not try.