BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Hi Guy's
I adjusted my tappets tonight on my 1150r. Only had the beemer two weeks. I could no way get the gauges in to do the adjustment but I have done it now my way and they are a nice snug fit.
Which is worse having the tappets tooooo tight or loose???????

renagade

It's better to have loose valves. Loose valves will only cost you some performance, but valves are that too tight can lead to problems.

Depending on your mileage, you shouldn't have to adjust your valves very often. For example, my valves haven't needed an adjustment in over 12k miles. However, newer R bikes may need some adjustment in the first 6k miles or so.


ProductUser

Theoretically, loose valves aid low rev torque, lowers the camshaft lift.
Visa versa for tight tappets.
Not going to notice the difference though.
Stick with the loose side, safer. less chance of valves hitting pistons.

Regading loose vs tight valves, the mechanic who worked on my Fiat 124 (obvioulsy many moons ago) used to tell me "If you can hear them tapping, you won't smell them burning." As a result, I've always erred on the loose side. BTW, I had the dealer do the valve adjustment on my R at the 600 mile service. When I decided to check them at about 3k, there was far too little clearance and the locknuts were way, way too tight. That was the last time I let the dealer do the work.

Regarding how often to adjust, once you see what a valve adjustment (and TB sync) do for smoothness to the boxer engine, you'll want to get in there much sooner than you absolutely need to. While you probably could go 12k without an adjustment, you probably won't want to.

I could no way get the gauges in to do the adjustment but I have done it now my way and they are a nice snug fit.

That scares me. The only correct way is the right way. Then there's that pesky need of finding TDC before adjusting them. OTOH, If you were able to pull out the feeler gauges with your fingers, then they weren't so tight that they need to be redone. The guys HERE have a really good 36 page writeup/pictorial PDF file for your DownLoad.

Yes, I get upset after seeing the unnecessary, expensive damage caused by novice mechanics, like stripped locknuts/adjusters, too loose locknuts that come loose and one guy that "turned the adjuster several turns out before the feeler gauge would fit in".

renagade

In the interest of potentially learning something new, would you kindly share with us what is "your way" of adjusting valves. I guess I'm from the old school and only know one way.

Regarding Cyclerob's comment on novice mechanics, I just like to make the point that no one is born a mechanic, they had the inclination, learned via all available means (self, classroom, chating with other subject matter experts and even dabble in some experimantation) and became good at what they do.

Tight is bad! The only time the exaust valve has to cool is when it is closed, transfers the heat to the valve seat, than the head ect. with use the vales become tight due to valve seat wear. when ajusted to factory specs. it's hard to go wrong.

When I was old enough to get my first car (Sabb 96 three cylinder two stroke )I had need of a repair to the engine, this was done by a good ( i thought ) garage. It turned out that they had not done the work they said they had done. From that day i read as muchas i could about the job in hand and did the repairs myself. I have owned many Citroen cars including the great DS and was able after a chorte while manage to look after all my cars and bikes myself to a good standard. That is why i am not afraid of doing all the maintance work on my 2002 1150r myself.
I have reached the 18k mark and thought I will start with the tappets. With the correct feeler guages to hand and my Heynes Manual I started by checking the valve tappets and found they were way to tight. I have adjusted them to .15 inlet and .30 exuast (sorry about spelling ) and then set up the idle balance with the Big Brass Screws. To morrow night I am going to take it for a ride and adjust the part throttle balance then she will be good for France on Boxing day.
Sorry so long a post

renagade

When I was old enough to get my first car (Sabb 96 three cylinder two stroke )I had need of a repair to the engine, this was done by a good ( i thought ) garage. It turned out that they had not done the work they said they had done. From that day i read as muchas i could about the job in hand and did the repairs myself. I have owned many Citroen cars including the great DS and was able after a chorte while manage to look after all my cars and bikes myself to a good standard. That is why i am not afraid of doing all the maintance work on my 2002 1150r myself.
I have reached the 18k mark and thought I will start with the tappets. With the correct feeler guages to hand and my Heynes Manual I started by checking the valve tappets and found they were way to tight. I have adjusted them to .15 inlet and .30 exuast (sorry about spelling ) and then set up the idle balance with the Big Brass Screws. To morrow night I am going to take it for a ride and adjust the part throttle balance then she will be good for France on Boxing day.
Sorry so long a post

renagade

My mech taught me a way to do this; different, but I will share and see what you guys think:

Remove valve covers, and turn the timing chain gear until the valves are all "up" and the 2 arrows on the timing chain are horizontal. peep into the spark plug hole and see the piston at top position.

(This is the freaky part) Then use 12mm and 22mm for the valves; and if you can slide the feelers out snugly it's too loose; gotta be tightish i.e. not easily ...

Bike seems to run fine, mech told me that this is easier than turning the tyre or opening the gen cover.

Views?

Cheers

Cat

Is there any difference in procedure for valve adjustment between a 2002 R1150 and a 2003 R1150? I have a guide that specifies 2003 model year.
Any info appreciated.
Thank you,
MArecycling

Are you sure you are putting the feeler gauges in the right place? I had a heck of a time till I figured out where to actually slip them in, what looks to be the obvious place is not.

You guys need the help I discretly linked to above. Here's the link in full view:
http://www.advrider.com/Wisdom/OVADv2.1.pdf

Here's advice you should follow.
1) Do NOT remove the sparkplugs until after the valves are adjusted. Minute thread carbon dust dislodged when you take the plug out will fall on ONE (or TWO at TDC of the "other" cylinder) of the 4 valve seats, below the sparkplugs, that is always open and not allow that valve to fully close. Leaving the plugs in also gives you solid feedback to TDC approaching with the wrench turn. Looking in the plug hole or poking screwdrivers in there is not the right way and can dislodge too much very hard abrasive carbon to one spot on the cylinderwall.

2) Remove the plastic front cover so you can turn the crankshaft AND inspect the alternator belt condition and tension. It's all well covered in the PDF file link above. If the belt is shredded or too loose, you WILL be stranded after it fails, then the battery is abused and soon killed.

3) Use 2 feeler gauges on each rockerarm like OVADv2.1 and BMW manual says.

4) Don't hesitate to abort to re-read the instructional or ask for help.

Great link robb! It isn't the only "how to" guide for adjusting valves but it is one of the most thorough not to mention entertaining

There is the traditional method for checking valves and there's the Anton method (No, I'm not talking about Howard Antony -- Author of many traditional Calculas textbooks).

Example:
The Anton approach uses one feeler guage across both intake valves. Pulling the feeler guage from the center will ensure that equal resistance is obtained on both intake.

Better example:
http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/s ... ber=770480

There is nothing wrong with either method; you just have to ensure that both intake valves have the same resistance.

ProductUser

First, I'm a lurker, thinking about a Boxer someday. Have a cruiser (NO, not a HD).
Am I understanding correctly, that ONE rocker arm activates both intake and exhaust valves?
I have not seen such an arrangement before.

ProductUser,

I cannot endorse the outline you linked to because he removed the sparkplugs before adjusting the valves. The BMW manual does not say to remove them (doesn't say not to either). I have a real world, hands-on, one-time bad experience in this matter, hinted at in my above post and at length in my previous posts about dislodged sparkplug thread carbon dusting the exposed valve seat(s) below. As I explained before, there is ALWAYS at least one valve open below the OilHead's 2 sparkplug's threaded holes. If you take the plugs out at TDC, there will be two valves on one cylinder partially open on the exhaust-closing / intake-opening overlap stroke. Unless you don't mind re-doing the adjustment because there are a few very noisy valves, follow my advice.

That link also tells you to first loosen all the rockerarm locknuts a full turn without checking the clearance first. A complete waste of time and one that few mechanics will do.
.

No worries CycleRob. I used this method without removing the spark plugs, per one of your earlier posts. I also check the clearences using the traditional method; I only use the Anton method when an adjustment was needed. BTW -- it's been close to 20k miles since the last time I had to adjust the valves.

ProductUser