BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

I bought my R in May of this year from the dealer with 500 mi on it. The dealer did the 600 mi service at that time.

I just hit 3000 miles mark and am thinking that its a good time for another (dino) oil and filter change. I figure the oil is still full of run-in debris at this point, and I won't be hitting 6000 miles for the next dealer service till sometime early next year.

Good idea? Overkill? Opinions?

I have seen the 12000 mile figure tossed out as a good time to go from dino to synthetic. Any other opinions? I went to synthetic at 4000 mi on my Yamaha, but as we kmow, BMW's are special.

Gordium7 wrote:I bought my R in May of this year from the dealer with 500 mi on it. The dealer did the 600 mi service at that time.

I just hit 3000 miles mark and am thinking that its a good time for another (dino) oil and filter change. I figure the oil is still full of run-in debris at this point, and I won't be hitting 6000 miles for the next dealer service till sometime early next year.

Good idea? Overkill? Opinions?

I have seen the 12000 mile figure tossed out as a good time to go from dino to synthetic. Any other opinions? I went to synthetic at 4000 mi on my Yamaha, but as we kmow, BMW's are special.

I think it's a good strategy.
After the 600mi service, I did another oil change at 4700mi and then again at 8700mi, when I changed to Mobil1 15w/50.
I changed all the driveline fluids again at 14000mi, and will now go 6000mi OCIs on everything....

Judging by your location, I would assume that you'll be laying your R up for the winter? If so, then an integral part of your winterizing strategy should be to put some fresh oil in her prior to lay up. In the spring, change the oil again to flush any contaminants out. At least, that's the conventional wisdom.

FWIW, when I took my bike in for the 600 mile service, they pulled a gallon jug of Triumph semi-synthetic 20w-50 off the shelf and used it. I've used either semi- or full synthetic oil ever since. I figured the service department would know if it was "too early" to start using semi-synth.

If you run dino oil (not a problem with this or any bike) do get in the habit of changing oil nd filter at 3,000 miles or so. Studies have shown that the additive package (this applies to motorcycles, spcially those air cooled) has lost a significant amount of its protection by 1500-2000 miles.

Please do understand that we have to factor in that bikes for the most part are not used as often as cars, sit up for longer periods of time and most of the wear is during start-up.

While we are on the subject of oil changes, I have heard in the past that synth oil should not be put into a BMW bike until after 20K miles. Is that true?

Also, with synth oil, how much farther do you extend your oil change intervals? Some say 5K on an oil change.

Inquiring minds want to know.....

If you run dino oil (not a problem with this or any bike) do get in the habit of changing oil nd filter at 3,000 miles or so. Studies have shown that the additive package (this applies to motorcycles, spcially those air cooled) has lost a significant amount of its protection by 1500-2000 miles.

Here is something I have wondered about ... We all know that our bikes lose oil for a certain break-in period (say, 20,000 miles of break in). If I am adding a quart every 1,000 miles, haven't I changed the oil after 4,000 miles or riding?

[I am not really serious about this, because I realize that the filter still needs to be changed, and the oil that is lost is a mix of the old and the just added new stuff. Still, it is one of those things that makes you go hmmmm ...]

SEEMS LIKE A BIT MUCH. 1 QUART PER 1000 MILES. I HAVE SEEN IN BOTH MY R'S(02&04 1150'S) ABOUT 1 QUART PER 3000. RIGHT ABOUT WHEN I CHANGE THE OIL. SYN ONLY! PS. I DO ADD TO KEEP FULL.

Just had the 10,000 km (6000 mile) service done. I had been using synthetic. The mechanic at the dealer told me the same thing as what drummer heard. Don't put synthetic in until the R is broken in after 20,000k (12,000 mile). They put semi synthetic in.

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html

As for syn or dino keep to the dino for 10k or so. Most of the real break in is the first 100 miles or so if done properly. What you will notice on BMs is the trans getting better as you pass through 20k, 30k and on. At these mileposts check the wheel, swingarm and fork bearings. And get the hammer out to smash the bank open for shocks. Big surprise when you get the Wilbers or Ohlins.

I have had 2 new, and one low k Boxers, and I have changed to full Synthetic at 10,000klms on all of them( as the dealer recommended), not before,
and I have never had a real oil usage issue.
I change mine every 10,000ks, but I may bring that back to 5,000ks if I am not doing lots of riding. I always use Mobil Racing 4T.
I work on the theory that oil is the cheapest form of maintenance you can do.

After 38 years and 18 bikes I'd say if you feel like changing the oil, change it. That's all the strategy you need. Not worth any further agony.

boxermania wrote: Please do understand that we have to factor in that bikes for the most part are not used as often as cars, sit up for longer periods of time and most of the wear is during start-up.

Al,
If most of the wear is during start up, and let's say that you only ride at least 50-100 miles every time you turn the key, then wouldn't the engine/oil be in better condition than if you commuted 6 miles.

Mike,
I could not agree more. I don't change my oil since I never feel like it.