BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

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From the doc I got from advrider, it seems to be the way to go. One little snerky at a time.

Just did mine on the weekend. Used the same doc. Just slacked off the lock nut enough to barely move the hex, checked the feeler guage and compared it to the other valve, then applied equal pressure to the hex and 10mm box so that the tolerance didn't change. Finished by torquing to 7.5 nm. Seemed to work, she's running smooth. Now to balance the TB's.

One other little thing I noticed . . . if you are going to do plugs and want to use a standard spark-plug socket and torque wrench, it's easier to do it with the valve cover off otherwise it's pretty well impossible to get at without a super skinny socket or using the BMW Spark Plug wrench. I learned this the hard way after I had put one valve cover back on already

I'v always used the tool kit spark plug socket for installing the spark plugs. When the spark plugs are new, you can feel their crush washer compress when you install them. Frankly, unless you're a gorilla, I don't thing you'll over torque the plugs.

You can also do this : Use JB Weld or similar metal to metal glue and attach an old 3/8" socket to the end of the BMW spark plug socket. Allows you to use an accurate torque value on the plugs with the valve covers attached.

DON'T FORGET THE ANTISIEZE COMPOUND ON THOSE PLUG THREADS.Al and steal don't like each other and not too tight. My 2 cents.

Go to Home Depot and get their Kodiak 5/8" spark plug socket. It has a small OD so it fits in the tight hole. It works like a charm and is under $3.

Go to Home Depot and get their Kodiak 5/8" spark plug socket. It has a small OD so it fits in the tight hole. It works like a charm and is under $3.

Thank you. I've been waiting for this post for three years.