BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Hi guys
Slowly getting my crashed bike back together. Its hard when I have a good K100 to ride around on.
Decided to replace my Rockster worn out hand grips after repairing the wires in the grip.
For those that want to do a cheep hand grip replacement.
I brought a set of the same looking Rubber grips off Ali express.
Just look up BMW motorcycle hand grips and scroll down. These look the same and fit 1100, 1150, Ks, all sorts. They are 22 and 24mm in a set.
I thought they would be too small but what I did was spray the inside the grip and the heated hand grip base with brake cleaner then quickly just pushed it on. The 22mm was a bit harder but did go on. No glue needed, they are tight. These were $7.50 to $8.00 US delivered free to New Zealand. Bloody cheep. Be very careful when removing the old rubbers. What I found best was to nip the smaller end with scissors to split it, then slide the bottom of a bluuuunt end, sharp scissors under the rubber an cut them off. The last bit you will need to use a sharp blade and be careful not to cut any thing but the rubber. Remove any rubber glue with a sharp blade. Easy as.
The one thing that I need some advice on is that I accidentally undid the rear shock pipe at the back of the bike and let some oil out.
Do's anyone know if this needs to be bled now. I thought it was the clutch line. Bugger.
I will put up some photos of my new look Rockster when it's finished. Its now got Harley V rod std handle bars and I hate Harley's but it works so good for my back. Cheers everyone from the best riding country in the world. New Zealand. Full of hills, winding roads and the best scenery in the world.

Hi again. got it a bit wrong. I don't hate Harleys. Some of my best mates have them. I just don't like the bs that goes with them

Hawkeye wrote:Hi again. got it a bit wrong. I don't hate Harleys. Some of my best mates have them. I just don't like the bs that goes with them

My favourite trick with hand guards is to use hairspray. Slick for a few seconds then sticky AF.

Sounds like another good way to do it. You have been around beamers a lot. Have you dad anything to do with the rear shock bleeding and if you need to do it after disconnecting the line.

Hawkeye wrote:Sounds like another good way to do it. You have been around beamers a lot. Have you dad anything to do with the rear shock bleeding and if you need to do it after disconnecting the line.

Funnily enough, whilst I've had a couple of rear shocks fail, I've never played with the pre-load adjustment hydraulic system. I think there is a write up or 2 somewhere in this forum though.

Look's like I will be answering my own question about the pre-load.
Talked to a hydraulics guy and he put me right.
On the bleeding side of it there is nothing much to do.
Screw the pre-load adjuster right out, then screw it back in again.
If it screws in and out with no pressure (easy) then the piston, as was mine is getting stuck or there is no oil in it. this needs sorting out before filling.
Undo the pre-load hyd pipe, then tighten it back up just enough so it do's not leak.
Unbolt the pre-load unit from the frame.
Keeping the unit high as possible unbolt the hyd line.
With a strip tie, fix the line as high as possible so it do's not leak.
With a 5mm long punch or something similar push the piston back to the adjuster bolt if it is not already there.
The piston should be able to move in and out with out to much force.
Clean and blow out the unit.
Please note. If you take off the knob,(beware), there is a tiny spring and ball bearing just under the knob.
Apart from the knob, the unit is not meant to be taken apart. I have tried.
With a syringe, fill up the adjuster with hyd oil then bolt it all back together.
If it screws in so far with no pressure, you might want to refill the unit.
It is a good idea to try it before refitting the unit onto the frame.
When you screw the pre-load adjuster in there should be a fare amount of pressure.
That's how it is meant to should work. It has to push a big spring.
Do the last hyd pipe tighten when it is on the bike
I think as part of maintenance, the pre load should be screwed in and out a few times every six months.
This is the the second time I have to un seize this piston.
Hope this helps anyone wanting to do this job.