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Tie Down Point Location?
Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2006 9:33 am
by rcharlton
Need to trailer across country and looking for advice on where to connect to the bike. Have read not to use handlebars, but it's tempting. I have an RT and there aren't many options. Anyone have any pictures? Also, using a "trailer-in-a-bag" for first time and will let you know what I think afterwards.
Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2006 9:52 am
by beemer-biker
I broght mine cross country in the back of a U-haul truck, not on a trailer. A couple of good tie down points are around the base of the front forks, being careful of the brake and abs lines. I used tie down loops around the forks, then used the straps to anchor from the loops to the trailer. Also, remove the small side panels, near the lifting handle, and use the bike frame. I have taken mine on a trailer using these points and it was rock solid. I used 3 straps per side, maybe overkill, but it made me feel better. If you don't already have a front tire chock, get one. They are not that expensive, but add another point of stabilizing the bike. I wouldn't leave the side stand or center stand in the down position. Good luck.
Where are you headed?
tie down points and trailer in a bag
Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2006 9:30 pm
by geogridshorthair
Beemer-biker is exactly correct. The tie down points are the forks just above the lower brace and under the two side covers on the left and right sides.
Do be sure to miss the break lines. Use soft ties!!!! If possible use soft ties with the ratchets. They're expensive $30 for two and you need four. Very worthwhile.
Three per side is over kill especially when using the trailer in a bag.
I have used the "trailer is a bag" for about 1 year and like it. Longest distance I have used it is 400 each way (800 mi round trip).
The RT is a little heavy to load without help, but I have loaded my 650GS solo many times without fear. The side stand on the GS is long enough to be supported by the wire mesh stand support.
I recommend that you use a piece of 2x4 as additional support for the side stand if you use the wire mesh stand support.
Bring extra bulbs for the break/tail lights and side markers. You will need them.
If the trailer will be exposed to rain, then rust will form in the small square holes where the rear lights mount. This is where the ground is obtained for the lights. If there is rust then the ground will be intermitent and so will the lights.
Bring some emory cloth to clean the square holes and the support posts for the lights.
Having a low drop hitch will lower the front of the trailer making it easier to load the bike solo. Higher hitch means a steeper ramp to push the bike up. I have an 02 Toy Tundra 4x4 and use a 6 inch drop hitch. That makes the trailer very level instead of inclined.
VERY IMPORTANT!!!!!! AFTER YOU HAVE YOUR BIKE TIED DOWN, DRIVE FOR ABOUT 20 MILES AND !!!!!!!!!...RECHECK THE TIE DOWN....!!!!!!!!!
It will be loose.
Good luck and Good Night....have a safe trip....
Where are you going and why? Just kidding.
Geogridshorthair aka Steve
Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 12:49 am
by socalrob
I have a couple of dirt bikes for my son & self that I trailer out to ride. Best advice I got on trailers was to buy a real welded trailer with real size wheels & tires.
Were I to use something like "trailer in a bag" which I assume is a bolted together thing, I would definately carry wrenches & spare bolts of the correct strength factor, and tighten all critical bolts after about an hour on the road, & then at very regular intervals until I was sure nothing was coming loose, and then at least once per day while traveling. Maybe also use the correct kind of Loctite. I am just paranoid about critical things coming apart.
trailering motorcycles
Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 2:08 am
by geogridshorthair
SoCal,
The "trailer in the bag" bike trailer is assembled with pins and clips. There are no bolts and nuts to work loose, shear or strip.
I have used this trailer for about one year and have had no problems with the product.
I have trailered my R and my 650GS to the bay area 8+ hours of travel with no problems.
Steve
Posted: Wed Feb 22, 2006 6:08 pm
by Boxer
There was some discussion on this topic a while back and I think we determined that the best place to tie down the front end was on each arm of the telelever. I vaguely remember someone saying this was the location that BMW ties the bike down for shipment.
Anyone else remember this?
Edited: I have to amend the above. I found this.
http://www.secondwindbmw.com/PDFs/generaltiedown.pdf
Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2006 7:55 am
by jb44
Boxer wrote:There was some discussion on this topic a while back and I think we determined that the best place to tie down the front end was on each arm of the telelever. I vaguely remember someone saying this was the location that BMW ties the bike down for shipment.
Anyone else remember this?
http://www.secondwindbmw.com/PDFs/generaltiedown.pdf
Hi Phil,
That PDF is interesting...first time I ever saw a bike tied down by the fork legs....but then again, I lead a sheltered life...
I have watched several bikes being "uncrated" and assembled at a BMW dealer. They were all tied down with straps to the telelever, one on each side.
jb
Posted: Sat Feb 25, 2006 8:38 am
by rcharlton
Thanks for the help guys. I'm Air Force moving from Florida to California, then on to Monatana later this year. Lots of miles.
Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2006 9:08 pm
by Boxer
Okay, I have an additional question related to thsi trailering/trucking issue.
I will put mine on my truck and haul it to Texas in April. That PDF file-and other sources- say to compress the front shocks.
Well, I don't see how this can be done if the straps are around the bottom of the fork tubes. Can someone explain how compressing the front forks helps and how the front forks will
STAY compressed?
I can understand this concept, if the straps were on the handlebars, but with the straps on the forks...or the telelever, how is this possible? Am I just stupid?...wait a minute. Don't answer that last question.
