BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

I am trying to help a guy out with re torquing the head bolts at the 600 mile service. I have the torque values and the procedure info but I can't find a diagram I used to have showing the location of the M 10 screw - it is down near the cam chain - would like to show a picture or diagram if anyone has one.

The procedure is fairly simple and straight forward:

From the service manual:

"After 1000 KM (600 miles), tighten cylinder head nuts in diagonally opposite sequence:" (cross pattern)

1. Slacken one nut

2. Tighten nut to initial torque - 20 Nm

3. Tighten nut to wrench angle - 180 degrees

4. Slacken and re tighten M 10 screw - 40 Nm

I am looking for a picture or diagram of M 10 - is difficult to explain where it is - is in plain sight near the cam chain wheel.

Bill, Here's what I have from the Clymer manual:

Loosen each cylinder nut (A, Figure 115) 1/4 turn maximum-do not loosen the nuts any more than that specified as it will place undue strain on the valve train.

Using a criss-cross pattern, tighten the cylinder head mounting nuts (Figure 116) to the preliminary torquer of 20 Nm (15 ft-lb)

Attach a degree wheel (Figure 117) to the wrench and tighten the nuts an additional 180 degrees.

Loosen the 10mm Torx bolt (B-Figure 115) 1/4 turn, then tighten the bolt to 40Nm (29 ft lb)

I have attached a picture of the figure 115 showing the location of that Torx bolt. I'm assuming this (B) is the M10 bolt you're talking about.

http://r1150r.smugmug.com/photos/49153212-M.jpg

I love it when they prescribe a degree wheel to tighten 180 degrees. 180 degrees is half a turn. I would not need a degree wheel for that and I bet I would get it between 177 and 183 degrees Close enough for me...

Fantastic Phil!!! That is exactly what I needed - i was having a hard time explaining to this fellow where M 10 was!! Very clear now.

BTW, a BMW mechanic told me one doesn't really have to have a degree wheel - just place the wrench at 12 O'Clock and swing it down to 6 O'Clock - same result! I guess - I always had the 600 mile check down at the shop - all other work I do!

"B" in the pic is wrong.

The M-10 bolt is the only one, down in the camchain tunnel, that needs a long 8mm Allen socket wrench to loosen/tighten it.

Thanks Rob - I thought it was down in the cam chain tunnel - at least mine was!

I think I should just go ahead and throw away this damn Clymer manual. So far it has proven not only deficient but erroneous as well.