Right now I park my bike in a garage next to an outlet which allows me to hook up the battery tender after each ride when I come back.
I may lose that garage space and no longer have the battery tender option.
If the battery drains to the point where the bike can't start, no problem, I just use the jumpbox.
However, if the battery's drained to the point where say it only has one last start, once I'm riding my main concern is that it wouldn't die in mid-ride. Sometimes with cars, even if the alternator is good, if the battery is weak, but strong enough for the startup, the car will die a couple miles down the road.
Any experience with this?
IF the battery's low, are you ok once the bike starts up?
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IF the battery's low, are you ok once the bike starts up?
2004 R1150r Non-ABS
If each of us were to get one other person on a bike, we'd double our presence
If each of us were to get one other person on a bike, we'd double our presence
Re: IF the battery's low, are you ok once the bike starts up
drain the battery one too many times, or too far, you've toasted it. FYI the r1150r is a difficult beast to push. found that out the hard way. 
but to answer your question, I'm not sure. I think It would have to be REAL bad to die while running. Like so bad, it would be lucky to start in the first place. SO i dont think its a problem. these oilheads have a a quite heavy duty alternator. BUT. it WOULD cause you to be stranded, once you shut it off.
also it would cause huge problems with your ABS, if so equipped.
but to answer your question, I'm not sure. I think It would have to be REAL bad to die while running. Like so bad, it would be lucky to start in the first place. SO i dont think its a problem. these oilheads have a a quite heavy duty alternator. BUT. it WOULD cause you to be stranded, once you shut it off.
also it would cause huge problems with your ABS, if so equipped.
2002 R1150R. Helmets save more lives than loud pipes.
Re: IF the battery's low, are you ok once the bike starts up
Wouldn't the alternator recharge the battery while I'm riding though?peels wrote:SO i dont think its a problem. these oilheads have a a quite heavy duty alternator. BUT. it WOULD cause you to be stranded, once you shut it off.
2004 R1150r Non-ABS
If each of us were to get one other person on a bike, we'd double our presence
If each of us were to get one other person on a bike, we'd double our presence
Re: IF the battery's low, are you ok once the bike starts up
Yep, only of course, until you do run it down one too many times, then the battery is worn out, and can no longer hold a charge, after charging system is removed. guess I should have said COULD cause a problem, not WOULD.MThomas wrote:Wouldn't the alternator recharge the battery while I'm riding though?peels wrote:SO i dont think its a problem. these oilheads have a a quite heavy duty alternator. BUT. it WOULD cause you to be stranded, once you shut it off.
I was told once to think of batteries like balloons. once you inflate/deflate too many times they stretch, and the pressure inside is low. and they can develop holes and leak.
2002 R1150R. Helmets save more lives than loud pipes.
Re: IF the battery's low, are you ok once the bike starts up
It takes several weeks for a good battery to be drained by the clock, which is the only thing drawing current when the bike is laid up.
When the battery is completely discharged (dead), it begins to form an insulating coating (sulfation) on its internal plates that makes charging it more difficult, and if left in this state without charging for a week or more, can become completely unchargeable and will need to be replaced. But if you can get it to start the bike before then (best to try charging it first for reasons described below), the alternator will generate enough current to keep the bike running, and if the battery can take a charge, the alternator will charge it. But it is hard on the alternator (it gets hot) to recharge a severely depleted battery, so it's best not to do this repeatedly. In the rare situation where a battery internally short-circuits and completely self-discharges, it won't accept enough charge to do any good and could damage the charging system.
The first sign of impending battery failure is usually that the battery only weakly cranks the motor. At that point you're better off replacing it so it won't leave you stranded somewhere after you've stopped for gas or whatever, and also so the starter doesn't have to draw excessive current (because of the weak battery's reduced voltage) that it overheats. This assumes that the starter is in good condition and not dragging, because occasionally what appears to be a bad battery is actually a bad starter. A battery load-tester can rule this out.
And BTW, as cooler weather makes the oil thicker and reduces the battery output, the bike will crank a little slower. This is normal, but if it gets too cold where you live for the oil you're using, switch to the recommended weight for your expected winter riding temperatures.
And you can always jump-start the bike by rolling it down hill (even a slight grade) and popping the clutch in 3rd or 4th gear once you get going a few mph. Remember to turn the key on and the "run/stop" switch is in the "run" position first! It also helps to sit down hard on the seat as you quickly let out the clutch lever to help keep the rear wheel from skidding as it tries to start spinning the motor. As soon as it starts you can pull the clutch back in to get it running smoothly before taking off.
And ride somewhere where you can fix it, or if that's not possible, park facing downhill in case you need to jump-start it again because it might not start on its own.
When the battery is completely discharged (dead), it begins to form an insulating coating (sulfation) on its internal plates that makes charging it more difficult, and if left in this state without charging for a week or more, can become completely unchargeable and will need to be replaced. But if you can get it to start the bike before then (best to try charging it first for reasons described below), the alternator will generate enough current to keep the bike running, and if the battery can take a charge, the alternator will charge it. But it is hard on the alternator (it gets hot) to recharge a severely depleted battery, so it's best not to do this repeatedly. In the rare situation where a battery internally short-circuits and completely self-discharges, it won't accept enough charge to do any good and could damage the charging system.
The first sign of impending battery failure is usually that the battery only weakly cranks the motor. At that point you're better off replacing it so it won't leave you stranded somewhere after you've stopped for gas or whatever, and also so the starter doesn't have to draw excessive current (because of the weak battery's reduced voltage) that it overheats. This assumes that the starter is in good condition and not dragging, because occasionally what appears to be a bad battery is actually a bad starter. A battery load-tester can rule this out.
And BTW, as cooler weather makes the oil thicker and reduces the battery output, the bike will crank a little slower. This is normal, but if it gets too cold where you live for the oil you're using, switch to the recommended weight for your expected winter riding temperatures.
And you can always jump-start the bike by rolling it down hill (even a slight grade) and popping the clutch in 3rd or 4th gear once you get going a few mph. Remember to turn the key on and the "run/stop" switch is in the "run" position first! It also helps to sit down hard on the seat as you quickly let out the clutch lever to help keep the rear wheel from skidding as it tries to start spinning the motor. As soon as it starts you can pull the clutch back in to get it running smoothly before taking off.
And ride somewhere where you can fix it, or if that's not possible, park facing downhill in case you need to jump-start it again because it might not start on its own.
Rich
ADIOS!
ADIOS!
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Roger 04 rt
- Member
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Re: IF the battery's low, are you ok once the bike starts up
The draws with the key off are:
Motronic/Fuse 5: 0.8 mA
RID/Fuse 3: 1.5 mA
ABS: 0.3 mA
Total: 2.6 mA
Note that the clock is about half the draw and the combination of ABS and Motronic are the other half.
Add another 4.8 mA to the key-off draw if you have a Kisanuki Signal Minder, which btw drains the battery very quickly.
Motronic/Fuse 5: 0.8 mA
RID/Fuse 3: 1.5 mA
ABS: 0.3 mA
Total: 2.6 mA
Note that the clock is about half the draw and the combination of ABS and Motronic are the other half.
Add another 4.8 mA to the key-off draw if you have a Kisanuki Signal Minder, which btw drains the battery very quickly.