BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Is it considered double dipping to enter the same post on two forums ? What would Miss Manners say ?

I haven't yet changed the oil on my R1150R 2004. Nor have I done a change on a bike with this type of filter. I figured/was told a filter wrench was necessary. I've eyeballed a K&N wrench and filter combo: http://www.amazon.com/KN-163-BMW-High-P ... and+filter

This K&N filter has the nut attached which seems like a good idea. I don't know what filter is in the bike now. If it's a standard OEM filter will I need an additional tool, other than the K&N wrench to remove it ? Is it better to stick to the OEM and get a wrench from Bemmer Boneyard, or somewhere ?

I know you've been over this a hundred times but any input appreciated.

Also own a 2004 R1150R.

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterXRef.html
The R1150R compatible oil filter list is in Section 7. I have found some of these in my local Advance Auto parts.
How much you spend on a filter depends on how often you plan on changing the oil.
The Mobil 1 filters are top notch.

The filter wrench will need ratchet extention capability as the filter is recessed a little underneath.

Owning a wrench that fits these filters is a tool I must own.
I have the OEM BMW wrench.

http://www.beemerbits.com/catalog/produ ... cts_id=619

I don't see the K&N on the list. Getting a wrench allows using different makes of filters.
I got a Mobil 1 filter on sale once.

FWIW--I've been using an AC Delco PF53 for about 120K combined.....44K on a '03 R and about 70K on my current '04. I change every 3000-3500 miles. I don't remember the wrench size right off but bought both at the local Advance Auto.

I used a Bosch.

the filter that was on my bike... BMW branded, was overtightened, and my wrench stripped it. it was a mess. My wrench also had a "lip" on it, which made the edge too wide to fit down into the recessed area around the filter. I filed the wrench down. then ended up wrapping tape around it, jamming my stripped and sanded wrench on there, AND poking a screwdriver into it for added leverage. FINALLY got it off. it was not a good evening.

moral of the story: DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THAT FILTER! also, use some oil on the seal, that SHOULD help it come out next time. and don't leave it on too long. I'm unsure how long it was on there. But id bet it was awhile.

Yeah I've had to ram a screwdriver thru a filter on my truck one time. Makes it real tough to reuse the filter.

Appreciate the input. Helps an R1150R newbie. I'll take your advice. I did some research and found that that nut attached to the K&N filter sometimes breads off. Son much for that nut being an advantage. Think I'll go with the Mobil 1 unit. Been using their oil for years on cars and motorcyles.

My filter canister has got flats around the bottom edge. I bought a large BMW tool which slips inside the casting and engages the flats OK. I tighten the filter about 1/2 to 3/4 more than finger tight and lube the seal.

I just took my filter into autozone and found the correct size filter wrench. Only cost a few bucks and works with a 3/8 socket wrench and an extension.

Beemer Boneyard can help you out. They source their products very well... I feel I can trust their parts and recommendations.

Bogdan,
If you are a cold weather rider I would NOT buy anything but the BMW filter. To my surprise, when I cut the filter apart I found the stock BMW filter has a small additional internal filter that filters the cold/thick oil bypassed by the filter's internal pressure relief valve that normally opens to relieve the high pressure that happens on a cold engine when you run it thru the gears or quickly get up to speed on to an InterState HighWay. Besides that, the filter media quality and its bond to the metal parts is of premium quality. With the BMW filter you get what you pay for, sacrificing the additional cost of maybe 2 beers every 6,000 mile oil change. I used 10 of them exclusively for 8 years.
Another plus for meticulous, obsessive, Boxer motor oil changers is to slowly add new oil to the new filter until full . . . it takes a few minutes . . . to shorten the red oil light dry start.
Like milehighboater advised, take the new BMW filter to AutoZone or Advance Auto and size it to their inexpensive but durable stamped steel filter cup socket.

On the advice of Desert Dan, among others, I ordered a wrench and filter from Beemer Boneyard. They sent a Bosch filter. I wonder if it is basically the same as the BMW filter as Cycle Rob made a good case for going OEM. I do use synthetic and that isn't supposed to gum up in the cold - so perhaps the internal filter is less important than if one uses dyno.

Instructions on/with the filter said not to use tools - only install it by hand. It seems on my R1150R that would be hard to do. This is my first change on this bike, so I have no experience. Do you guys do the final 1/2 to 3/4 that Gregor mentioned by hand or with your 3/8" ratchet ?

Also Castrol synthetic is in the bike now. I was going to change at 5k miles, however that will put me in the middle of my upcoming trip to St. Louis. Cycle Rob changes at 6k miles; it seems with synthetic the 6k interval is sufficient with normal ridding. What do you people think ?

BTW the ride from Colorado to St. louis, through Kansas and Missouri, is not boring if you avoid the interstate.

Again....any thoughts opinions appreciated.

I've had 4 oilheads and have used a variety of filters and oils. BMW has always been "funny" (imo) about using OEM parts. I just like quality stuff, K&N is a premier company, I don't hesitate to use their products. I also think the Bosch name speaks for itself. My personal quirk is that I like to change oil every 3K; I'll let it go a little longer if I'm using synthetic, but if using "petroleum" every 3K for me, even though I believe longer intervals are not harmful as long as you're not thrashing the bike. Changing the oil during a road trip is easily done and can be accomplished in a motel parking lot or at a rest area. Sometimes disposal of the used oil is something of a problem, but most auto parts stores and even Walmart will take it if you ask nice.
When I first started riding BMWs I was riding the true airhead boxers; the old school BMW guys used to INSIST on BMW batteries, oil filters, and only Metzeler tires. A dealer once even replaced my new aftermarket battery with a BMW battery and seemed miffed when I mentioned it. In my experience a person can match the component quality of BMW parts with aftermarket parts at a much improved cost. For instance, price a complete fuel pump kit from Beemer Boneyard (all necessary parts, the pump is made by the same mfg as OEM) and compare it to dealer prices.

I use whatever tools enable me to access the oil filter. There is no specific torque as such in my method of tightening the oil filter up. Use fingers to seat the seal against the sump then a tool to do the final compression of the seal. 1/2 to 3/4 turn works for me. Filter always easy to remove and has never unscrewed by itself.