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I can't start my 2002 R1150R (30K mi)
Three days ago I went for a ride and after a little break it wouldn't start up again.
Sounded like a dead battery (rapid "tick-tick-tick-tick"). Fortunately I was up on a hill in Elysian Park by Dodger stadium, so I popped the clutch in 3rd and rode home.
After load testing the battery it was determined to be bad and I ordered a new one from the dealer. It came in two days later and they conditioned it before I picked it up.
Yesterday I put the new battery in, connected the fuel pump and the gas lines and gave it a crank - it sounded strong (the starter), the only catch is, it doesn't catch.
So here I am.
Fresh battery (12.4 V).
Hi-test gas in the tank.
Fuel pump working. (I can hear it come alive when the key is on and I took both injectors off to check for spray - they work, could maybe use a cleaning (another thread, perhaps?) and I didn't replace their O-rings with new (I might be a bad person.))
I have good spark on both sides (I put in new plugs and wires maybe 100 miles ago).
Compression says 140ish on both sides.
It's in Neutral on the Center Stand and the kickstand is up... And I'm completely lost.
Thoughts?
Thanks,
-D.

Kill sw on the handlebar??

Thanks for the suggestion,
It's in working order, as far as I can tell... Left or right I get no response to ignition, dead center it cranks but won't catch.

Based on information provided you have fuel and ignition, is everything happening at the right time? Motronic reset and/or the throttle cable on the left side displaced? that's all I got.

You're certain the fuel quick-connects are, well, connected?

IIRC someone here had pulled the tank and experienced starting problem due to a still-closed QC that had been initially seated but then separated without fully "clicking in".

P_Jensen wrote:Based on information provided you have fuel and ignition, is everything happening at the right time? Motronic reset and/or the throttle cable on the left side displaced? that's all I got.

Both sides of the throttle are opening and closing together and the cable is seated properly in the little housing screw. Anything else I should look for there?
Motronic reset is very intriguing, I will investigate the procedure now and report back.

sweatmark wrote:You're certain the fuel quick-connects are, well, connected?

IIRC someone here had pulled the tank and experienced starting problem due to a still-closed QC that had been initially seated but then separated without fully "clicking in".

I have one new QC that I installed (which works like a champ) and one old QC that works like crap. I will replace and report.

P_Jensen wrote:Based on information provided you have fuel and ignition, is everything happening at the right time? Motronic reset and/or the throttle cable on the left side displaced? that's all I got.

Just tried the #5 Fuse Motronic reset. Several different ways, lastly pulling the fuse, waiting 10 minutes, replacing the fuze, key on, throttle stop-to-stop twice, Ignition.
And it tried to catch. It really did. It WANTED to catch, for a second it sounded like it was gonna and I took my thumb off the trigger. Then it died the same as before.
I really thought that was gonna do it.
Any further thoughts on that process, it seems like the most likely avenue so far...?

so the starter IS spinning the engine? when you say "catch" makes me think starter spinning, but not engaging flywheel.

if SO....youre 100% certain the throttle cabels, L AND R, are both seated into the stop directly above the throttle bodies? this got me twice.

The visual is a nice reference, thanks. I'm absolutely certain both sides are seated correctly.
I just read something that said that checking for spark without grounding the plug to the engine can damage the Motronic. I may have done that...? But I am getting spark, the starter is engaging the flywheel as the piston can be seen pumping (with a flashlight, with the plug removed). And there is a moment when it "tries" to catch. The engine purrs/starts to run for a half second and then it falls back to only the starter.

Dylzen,

Like member sweatmark said: someone here had pulled the tank and experienced starting problem due to a still-closed QC that had been initially seated but then separated without fully "clicking in".

They have to be pushed together fully until you hear/feel it click into place -and- you will not be able to pull them apart. Try pulling them apart without pressing the metal release tab.

Thanks, Cyclerob - and everyone else who's had a thought here -
The QC's won't come apart, and the old one that I'm going to replace in the morning ($75 part - should have found an alternative by now, there's tons of good threads here) from the dealership, is extremely hard to pull apart even when the faster hasn't snapped in - which it has...

I think there must be something to this Motronic or maybe HES idea. I suppose since I'm pulling the tank again tomorrow, while its off for the connector, I'll go inside it and double check the pump and filter and hose lines...but again, there's spray from the injectors. Not a sexy spray pattern like in the movies, but definitely fuel coming out under pressure...

Is the airbox intake system clear? I mean if you have fuel spray from the injectors and spark..maybe no air??? This is also true for the exhaust..must be clear.
If you have spark, fuel pump operation and injector spray, probably not the ecu or the hes.

She's ALIVE!
I was replacing the old QC and went in the tank to check the pump etc., do my due diligence, and found the line from the pump to the filter hanging off, but still right in line, which would explain why I was getting some fuel to the injectors, but clearly not nearly enough. Re-crimped the clamp and along with the new QC's she's purring like a sideways-engine kitten. I'll button everything up and go for a ride. If I don't report back everything is running great or the cops finally caught me. Either way it's what I deserve.

Serious Thanks to everybody who posted replies! Great community here, respek.