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So I think it my turn. 2002 R with 25,500 mi. Just out of curiosity, I put my hands on rear wheel 3 and 9 o'clock position. Gave a good shake and felt just a bit of a click/wiggle, probably less than 2 mm. Felt no wiggle at 12 and 6 o'clock position. Then, maybe psychological, but may have started to notice a bit of a grinding feeling when banking for left turn.

After reading a bunch of threads on this, I'm thinking the rear wheel bearing is giving out. I am out of town now but next step will be to check the drain plug for metal bits.

Either way, I will get the bearing replaced. I don't think I can do this job myself.

Question:

To save time/labor cost, would it be reasonable to split the final drive and just drop the "wheel half" at the dealer, leaving the other half mounted on the bike? I think I could handle that part of the job. Or would they really need the whole bike to do the job right?

Steven

sstein wrote:So I think it my turn. 2002 R with 25,500 mi. Just out of curiosity, I put my hands on rear wheel 3 and 9 o'clock position. Gave a good shake and felt just a bit of a click/wiggle, probably less than 2 mm. Felt no wiggle at 12 and 6 o'clock position. Then, maybe psychological, but may have started to notice a bit of a grinding feeling when banking for left turn.

After reading a bunch of threads on this, I'm thinking the rear wheel bearing is giving out. I am out of town now but next step will be to check the drain plug for metal bits.

Either way, I will get the bearing replaced. I don't think I can do this job myself.

Question:

To save time/labor cost, would it be reasonable to split the final drive and just drop the "wheel half" at the dealer, leaving the other half mounted on the bike? I think I could handle that part of the job. Or would they really need the whole bike to do the job right?

Steven

The rear wheel on the 1150 does not have wheel bearings. 2mm is a very small amount of movement and is most likely nothing, especially without leaks.
The final drive cannot be disassembled without completely removing it from the moto and its a complicated rebuild best left to someone that knows how to do it.
I suggest before you do anything take it to the dealer(or qualified mechanic) and have it checked. 25K is a very small amount of miles to be having the main rear drive bearing go out.

Don't worry, be happy.

cheers

My bike has just passed 25,000 miles as well. I had a pivot bearing replaced expensively 5 years ago. Wheel bearings are still OK IMHO. From a cursory external inspection one of the bearings ,at least, is going to be of a large diameter which bodes well for a long life if it is oil immersed. An expert opinion is needed . Look on the Motorworks site/ parts fiche to see the various parts. An exchange rear bevel box is available as well I note. But there are several bearings involved.

Before I would do anything, I would remove the wheel retaining bolts, clean the threads, if there is any corrosion, apply a bit of anti-seize compound to the threads and then torque the bolts to the proper value .
See if that changes anything .

Thanks. Kirby, I certainly hope it's not a problem but I have read many times on this forum that ANY rear wheel movement indicates a problem and needs to he checked out. Changing the final drive oil and checking the magnetic drain plug seems easy enough to start.

If it remains a concern, I will take it in for eval. Just don't want to wait until there is too much damage.

I can remove and re-torque the rear wheel as well.

Thanks.

Well I think you wise to keep an eye on everything and looking at the rear drive oil is a simple thing to do. If you drain it into a pan that is black, (warm oil is best) then slowly drain the pan and take it out into the sun light and look for small flakes or specks. See if they are magnetic.

A very FEW flecks are not unusual but many are a sign of bearing problems. If that is happening (many flecks) it will most likely not show on the magnetic plug very well. Bearing material will show up as bright brass or gold color. Any gear chips will most likely end up on the magnetic plug.(black)

Usually bearing failure/problems will show as movement in any wheel position. That said it might point to some other problem area.

At any rate have it checked by someone qualified for peace of mind.

Let us know what happens.

sstein wrote:So I think it my turn. 2002 R with 25,500 mi. Just out of curiosity, I put my hands on rear wheel 3 and 9 o'clock position. Gave a good shake and felt just a bit of a click/wiggle, probably less than 2 mm. Felt no wiggle at 12 and 6 o'clock position. Then, maybe psychological, but may have started to notice a bit of a grinding feeling when banking for left turn.

After reading a bunch of threads on this, I'm thinking the rear wheel bearing is giving out. I am out of town now but next step will be to check the drain plug for metal bits.

Either way, I will get the bearing replaced. I don't think I can do this job myself.

Question:

To save time/labor cost, would it be reasonable to split the final drive and just drop the "wheel half" at the dealer, leaving the other half mounted on the bike? I think I could handle that part of the job. Or would they really need the whole bike to do the job right?

Steven

IIRC (might be wrong), but if the wheel has movement when you hold it at 12 and 6, then it's the final drive bearing. If you hold it at 9 and 3 and you get movement then it's more likely to be the pivot bearing, or possibly the swingarm bearings at the chassis mount.

I'd take it to a pro personally.