BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Hey Guys,

Sorry if this is a re-tread (and boring topic)...but what's the general consensus on interval for changing rear drive and transmission oil?

Manual indicates 12K miles as I recall for both, but it that sufficient?

Also...any particular recommended synthetic brands?

(I've got a bit over 6K miles on mine now.)

Thanks,

Are you doubting your manual? Yes, you are. The "Manual" is the result of thousands of hours of testing and calculations by dozens of engineers. I imagine you're smarter than them eh? Well, I bet you aren't.

I'd suggest you follow that manual and have a little faith in German engineering, I know I do.




For those of you offended by the above uppity attitude, I was only doing my best to play the devil's advocate position for the dozens of German engineers who can't be here.

unfortunatley, manuals are not edited or published by the engineers. Once marketing and upper management gets involved things change.

If the engineers were the final word why is so much time spent on boards like this one, with everyone from owners to mechanics to manufactures offering creative and time proven solutions not found in the owners manual (an abbreviated version of the cliff notes of a marginally useful service manual).

The same engineers that know everything must think surging is a feature...

Bill

"believe half of what you see and none of what you hear"
-Lou Reed

Looking at my maintenance booklet it indicates the following:

Gearbox oil change - 20k kms or every 2 years
Rear drive oil: 1st at the 1000km inspection, then every 40k kms or 2 years

I suggest downloading the maintenance schedule from BMW's web site as this may be updated more often than the printed booklet.


tor1150r

BMW 70/140 Synth in the tranny and Mobil 1 70/90 synth in the rear drive. I usually change both every year regardless of milage.

I dunno'...

It's weird, but there is something that just gives you a *good* feeling knowing you have fresh lubes in all the right places, and that they are topped up to spec. Probably nothing to it, but having fresh lubes can't hurt...

Sooooooooo, I probably tend to change my various oils more often than necessary, but then I have never had any sort of lubrication related failure. Maybe it comes from racing bikes and cars so long, where we changed lubes all the time.

I change out my engine oil every 3,000 to 4,000 miles.

Change the gearbox and final drive every 6,000 to 8,000 miles.

Like Dean, if I have a bike that hasn't had that kind of mileage in a year I change 'em all out regardless of mileage... condensation and all that possible contamination over the year doing what it can do, etc.

Really, when you get right down to it, fresh oil for engine, gearbox, and the final drive is *CHEAP*, and cheap insurance, too. It seems odd to me that someone would spend $10,000 on a motorcycle and then try to economize over the $30-$40 bucks or so it takes for swapping all the lubes to fresh two or three times a year...

Just my $0.02... YMMV, of course.

Cheers!

Dallara

Edited, and moved on...

but I've found that a cut out and rolled up lenthwise section of beer can, slid into the drain area, keeps MOST of the oil off the cat when draining it.

Geeze, maybe I can find an empty beer can at one of my buddy's houses...

Can you use an empty scotch bottle?



Cheers!

Dallara

Can you use...
Can you use an empty scotch bottle?

Only if you can roll it up.

I was thinking along the lines of Dean...Dallara...6-8K miles or 1 year, whichever is sooner rule...cheap insurance.

I have always changed engine oil every 3K miles for all vehicles I have owned, regardless of manufacturer's recommendation.

And now I am adding 1/2 bottle of Techron at the end of each 3K engine oil change cycle, to avoid carbon build-up. (I run a full tank with the Techron down to reserve just before oil change, to ensure any Techron blow-by that might have occurred, is removed with the engine oil change.)

Tranny and rear end changes, however, varies on my vehicles.

I like the 6-8K mile or 1 year rule...no offense to those who chose other options...but I am reassured of my inclination by the experience of Dean and Dallara.

By the way, Dean, why do you use BMW in tranny and Mobil in rear? Why not BMW or Mobil in both...is it that Mobil does not make the viscocity required for the tranny?

Dallara, what synth to you use?

Others? What is your choice for tranny and rear end juice?

I have used Redline in the past on vehicle transmissions under great stress (a souped-up RX-7 with a large after market turbo that I installed), with great success...but still a little unsure of making that leap to the bike.

BMW 75/140 changed at 12K since I'm doing a lot fo stuff and have my torque wrenches out at that time anyway.

Well, Ed K...

I am a bit of an Amsoil queer... But not because I am a "Believer" in Amsoil so much, but because I signed up for their "Preferred Customer Discount" deal...

I am a *BIG* believer in synthetic oils, period, That comes from experience in both motorcycle and car racing. To me, any good quality synthetic is light-years past a good dino oil (except during break- or run-in...).

I use Amsoil 140/90 in the gearbox, and Amsoil 75/90 in the rear end.

Hope this helps!

Cheers!

Dallara

Where I live, Amzoil or Redline is not avaliable and Mobil 1 is every where. Mobil 1 does noe have a 70/140 synth that I know of. Also Chris at San Jose BMW speaks highly of Mobil 1.

Friend of mine once told me a theory that I've held to since the 80's. "I can afford a case of oil. I can't afford another engine."
I change engine oil and filter every 3,000 miles.
I change transmission lube and rear end lube every 6,000 miles.
My 1990 GMC 350 V-8 has gotten the same schedual since I bought it new. It does use 1 pint oil now between 3,000 change intervals, at 140,000 miles.

Bakernks said:

"I can afford a case of oil. I can't afford another engine."

Amen, Brother... Amen!

Cheers!

Dallara

Can someone please point me to some instructions on how to do that and oil cappacity for both transmision and final drive.


Tinos

Hmmmm! From memory....

on right side midships is the transmission filler and drain plugs. Upper is filler plug (8mm Hex bit socket) and lower is drain (duh!).

Bike on centerstand. Remove filler plug. Remove drain plug. Drain tranny fluid into suitable container. Smell that good smell of clean unburned tranny fluid. Smells burned? Worth checking with dealer/service tech for cause. Carefully tilt bike to insure most fluid drains....might want a helper. Inspect plug head for any residual bright metal bits. BAD. Small non-shiney,crud residue -OK.
Replace plug. Torque 22-23 foot pounds 30Nm. Wrist tight plus 1/16 turn.

Replace tranny fluid with your choice of natural or synthetic (better regardless of mileage I think) API GL5 in 80W90, 75W140, or Redline HD Shockproof (the good stuff!). Add a measured 0.80 liter (.85 quart) to bottom of filler threads. Replace filler plug. Torque 22-23 fp/30Nm.

HTH


Ahhhhh! Pages 73 and 79 in Maintenance manual.

crousos wrote:Can someone please point me to some instructions on how to do that and oil cappacity for both transmision and final drive.


Tinos

http://www.trickery.cz/manualy/bmw/bmw% ... %20eng.pdf