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Fork seals??
Posted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 5:54 am
by jahluv
Ok, Think I'm done cannibalizing the R...canister gone,muffler gone,new paint,time to put it back together.Fork seals have a bevel on one side,bevel up or bevel down?
Thank you for all the help,Jimmy
Re: Fork seals??
Posted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 1:19 pm
by CycleRob
jahluv,
The numbers and lettering on the seal's circular face surface goes on the outside top surface.
The banded clamping spring wrapped around the the seal rubber compressing it to the forktube faces the inside where the fork oil is.
To ease rubber seal installation and create a good oil sealing surface, dunk your finger in fork oil and wipe the OD surface of the seal, then carefully drive it into place with a large 1/2" drive socket that is just a little bit smaller than the aluminum fork slider's fork seal ID area. Wipe away any external excess oil after that installation. Prior to installing the forktube, finger apply enough Moly grease to partially fill the gap(s) between the inner seal's ID ribs that wipe the steel forktube sealing surfaces. After some initial greasy smears following the first few rides are wiped away by you, most of the grease remains inside there to extend the seal's lifespan and minimize "stiction".
Re: Fork seals??
Posted: Thu Jan 30, 2014 10:04 pm
by jahluv
Glad I asked,seems like it would go the other way,thanks for straightening that out. Couple more questions if I may...do the bushings go tight to the nylon tubes or flush with the bottom of the seal? Is there an alignment procedure for reinstalling the forks? Thank you for all your help, very much appreciated.
Re: Fork seals??
Posted: Sat Feb 08, 2014 9:27 pm
by CycleRob
Drive the forktube bushings in until they stop, then install the fork seal, washer and retainer ring followed by the rubber external dust wiper seal.
To "align" the front end . . . bike on the centerstand:
-- Attach the the 2 top fork tube attachment bolts.
-- Install and finger tighten the 4 fork brace bolts.
-- Tighten the front axle to specs, then the same for the axle pinch bolt.
-- Tighten to spec the 4 fork brace bolts.
-- Lastly the brake calipers and front fender go on.
If you notice the handlebars are not perpendicular to straight ahead when you ride the bike, loosen slightly the fork brace bolts so they are 1/4 full torque snug but not tight. Then wheel the bike up to a sturdy post that will not move when you remove the twisted alignment between the bars and front wheel by forcefully tapping (or wacking) the correct side of the front tire portion against the stationary pole (or object) to force the 2 components into perfect alignment. Since there are a few variables with the bolt torques and friction, go easy the first few times until you get some feedback of the force and number of taps it takes to affect a change. It may take a few trial-n-error attempts and you can make a quick visual alignment check just by having someone push you on the bike a dozen feet or so. It seems barbaric doing it that way, tapping/WACKING the front wheel against something stationary, but with a little practice it takes 3 sessions tops and it is effective even on front fork tubes that are ever-oh-so-slightly bent away from perfectly straight.