BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

So over the past seven years I've progressed from a 250 nighthawk to a 650cs, and from the cs to an r1150r. I literally knew NOTHING about maintenance. I've since started working on the r1150r and have been pleasantly surprised by how simple this thing is to work on. I just replaced the air and fuel filter (maybe an hour, hour and a half, didn't know wtf I was doing). This will definitely be a quicker process next time. Along with that I changed the diff, trans, and engine oil. Only my second time, but still went pretty quick. Next came the scary one..... valve adjustment. I was in there for honestly about 40 minutes. Could it have been that easy? It took minimal adjustment, was easy and was not even messy! Threw the valve covers back on and then swapped out some screwed up spark plugs and took her for a spin. How much would this have cost for all this work at the stealer? I'm literally shocked at how simple this maintenance is. I'm hooked! I think next weekend will be brakes.....

Congratulations!

Yes the R is a very easy machine to maintain and it's fun to do. Not to mention the $$ savings. You learn valuable skills and save money at the same time.

In a little bit of defense of the dealership, I know it's fun for us to poke fun a bit and I guess we've all had times when we felt like we spent too much money getting something repaired whether it be a car, truck or bike. But not all folks are handy with a wrench or have a mechanical aptitude. Or even have a place to work on a vehicle. My son-in-law has a tough time knowing which end of a tool to hold but he's a wonderful father to my 4 grandchildren (and they're not his children) and that by far is more important than mechanical ability. I'm a bit better with a wrench than I was as a Dad, so now I try to be a good grandfather and I do the wrenching on my daughter's car and her house. We all balance out I guess.

I just hit 6000 miles on my 03 R1150R and did the valves. It was easy (having owned a dozen VW and done all the maintenance on them) and the reward was an even smoother running engine! I'll get to the fuel lines and disconnects soon, and ALL the fluids (non-ABS so shouldn't be bad). I chose the R1150R because of ease of access for maintenance. I've put 5,000+ miles since I got the bike in early July, and couldn't be more pleased with the choice. My knees are telling me to get the Harbor Freight lift however ;^)

Couldn't agree with you more on the knee thing. I've been that way for many years. I need a "drive up work bench"! I end up sitting indian style on the ground when I do anything to the R. And then struggle to get back up. My 58 years are working on me.

I totally agree. Since getting my 02 I've done all the fluids (except the clutch fluid - I need the bleeder gizmo....anyone got an extra?), metal qd's, brake pads, valves and tb's, plugs, battery, fuel hoses, lights, accessory charger...
Next is fuel filter (externalize?), and cannisterectomy.
Only wish I had more time to ride! Life gets in the way...

I've put around 5k on mine since I bought it earlier this year too! I am slightly worried about the reported breaking fuel connections, is this a pressing issue that I should address sooner than later? With my rather limited funds I'm trying to cover all my bases, including getting more proper riding gear (and heated winter gear)! Any opinions on best pants/rain gear for the money?

Don't hesitate on the fuel filter, it wasn't THAT bad. Just run the tank low and be gentle when wiggling it in and out.... oh and don't be a ding bat like me and try to disconnect all the lines while hold the tank in your other arm

The QD's are a bit problematic but they will last a long time if you're careful when disconnecting/connecting. There is a small black O-ring on the male part of each QD. I take a small dab of silicone grease on the O-ring and that part of the QD. It allows the two parts to slide together easily and fully. Just be careful to slide them together and not putting the QD in a bind. One of these days I will replace mine, the last 3 years kept me from doing much service on mine. All is nearly back to normal now.

I'd replace the plastic QDs right away if I were you. I wish I had done that, before mine failed and spilled gasoline all over my transmission, staining it permanently. Not to mention the fire hazard from gasoline everywhere.

dont forget after a valve adjustment, put the ammeeter on it and synch the throttle bodies. instructions all over the web. one can be had at beemerboneyard for about $80

billbeemer wrote:dont forget after a valve adjustment, put the ammeeter on it and synch the throttle bodies. instructions all over the web. one can be had at beemerboneyard for about $80

I guess you mean a vacuum gauge rather than an ammeter?
Before doing the valves you should do the end float on the rockers. From memory the factory tolerance is fairly large, from 0.05 to 0.30mm. If you take a bit of time to get it to the minimum it makes it as quiet as it can be and it is something that your dealer would not do as long as it was within tolerance. It is simple enough to do, but you will need a torque wrench and ideally a rubber mallet. Once it is done it will probably never need adjusting again.

It's also getting closer to cold weather. Best keep a check on the antifreeze in the radiators.