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i bought my 2007 R12R used and the previous owner (PO) lowered the bike using hyperpro shocks front and rear. the PO also shortened the side stand and the center stand, but they made the center stand too short as neither the front wheel nor the rear wheel are off the ground. i would like to jack the bike up so i can lower the forks and move the front brake and clutch lines to the inside of the triple tree but i am unsure how to go about this. the reason i want the lines on the inside of the triple tree is i want to put a set of Rox Risers on the bike and don't want to go to the trouble of installing a longer brake/clutch line and then having to bleed out the system. i don't really want to lay a 2x4 on the oil pan and jack it up that way as i fear i will do some serious damage to the oil pan. any ideas how i can jack the bike up without doing any damage to it? maybe i should have a welder lengthen the center stand enough to bring the rear wheel off the ground.

A few questions and thoughts..

It isn't clear to me what you want to do.

- Do you want to restore the bike to the factory height? If so - options are:

• Send the Hyperpro shocks to EPM (Klaus Hueneke) and see if they can be made "normal" length, with springs to match your weight. Since some Hyperpro shocks are shortened by installing a spacer inside limiting the maximum extension, it's very possible this is doable. You will need correct rate and length springs though. Cost should be "reasonable" compared to new shocks.
• Offer to swap the shorter shocks with someone who has normal length shocks. I'd do the swap with you if you are interested. I have some very low mile stock shocks sitting in a box on the shelf in my garage.
• Sell the Hyperpro's and buy used stock shocks.

Or do you just want a working centerstand again? Is so..

• I'd suggest contacting BeemerBoneyard and see what they have. Since your stand has already been cut and welded, doing it again to make it longer means trying to splice in a section. I wouldn't suggest that if you want to actually use the centerstand - chances of it breaking at an inopportune moment increase with every weld it gets.
• Or offer to swap it with someone for a normal length centerstand. I do have a spare sidestand (normal length) I'd consider swapping for a shortened one.

As far as moving the lines inside the triple-tree (I assume you mean between the fork legs) - that may be possible, but look carefully at how the fork tubes actually recess into the tank cutouts at full lock in both directions. Might be doable, might be difficult. I supposed you could do it by dropping one of the fork tube attachments at the top and slipping the lines though, then doing the other.

If you're concerned with lifting the bike - I regularly use a floor jack with a block of wood under the sump for the front end. The rear end on mine is off the ground when on the centerstand so that's not a big problem.

I read your post, you would like the center stand to work properly.

AND you want to raise the bike to work on it.

I can shoten or lengthen the center stand.
Send a PM. I play a welder at work.

David

Could you raise the bike on the center stand on a 2 by 8 or 10 piece of board? That's how I get mine up higher.

It isn't clear to me what you want to do.

i want to raise the bike up so i can take the front wheel off and then drop the forks down so i can move the brake and clutch lines to the inside of the triple tree.

i will take the center stand off and bring it to my welder to have it lengthened, thats a separate issue.

my main concern is how to safely jack the bike up so i can get the front wheel off.

celticus wrote:Could you raise the bike on the center stand on a 2 by 8 or 10 piece of board? That's how I get mine up higher.

+1

Could you raise the bike on the center stand on a 2 by 8 or 10 piece of board? That's how I get mine up higher.

i think i will give this a try

GForman wrote: my main concern is how to safely jack the bike up so i can get the front wheel off.

Put a jack under it and jack it up, simple. There is no "oil pan", only the motor itself. You could use a 1"x2" if you wanted but it's no needed, at least to protect the bike IMHO.

Under my bike there's many of scars from hits from rocks when pretending to be a GS, even ripped the skid plate off, jacked my bike up many times and worrying about damaging it from a stand is the least of my concerns.




Or instead of lifting the front you can pull down on the back once on the center stand (with a board under your short center stand)

Nice pic Lost. I always like to buy things at Harbor Freight that I don't know how many times I will really need to use.

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsea ... cycle+lift

I fitted the Rox anti-fibe Risers 50mm higher .I ran the brake line behind the fork tube for a while
just for testing it works .BUT I would not leave it there as the line would not last because of the angles it runs.Just have a new one made up 60mm longer (60MMM BECUASE YOU WANT TOO BE ABLE TO TILT THEM BACK IF NEEDED) .Its easy to fit just make sure you do not get brake fluid on your bike.I only bleed the top of the master bleeding nipple and the brakes work fine
Then do the trick with turning the bars so the master bleeding nipple is highest point and pull the lever in and tie down over night .as explained elsewhere on this web site.
ps. make sure the rox line up with the space provided on the handle bars as mine did not and i had to modify the risers.
I found that I enjoy the riding position a lot more and the handling i found is much better in the bends as well.