BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Adjusting the suspension requires setting the sag and that requires taking measurements while having the bike on its wheels. I am thinking about solutions that would allow me to do this on my own. Has anyone tried a self-locking wheel chock with the Roadster (http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Lockin ... B001R8WP0M)? Are there any other ideas besides a full-blown bike lift? It should keep the bike upright and stable without strapping it down and should allow measurements to be taken and adjustments to be made to the shocks.

Make your own chock. All you need is some plywood for a floor plate and some 2x4's to stack in a U shape to cup the front tire. I've used this method twice to set my suspension and once on a landscapers trailer to transport the bike. It works great and is wallet friendly.

Harbor Freight has a pretty nice wheel chock for $39.99. I use one on my trailer and it works well.

Lynn

I use one of these, very robust but expensive. I bolt it down on a trailer to help secure my bike if I want to trailer it anywhere also for the purpose of what you have mentioned.

http://on-bike.com/products_bikegrab.htm

GBag wrote:Make your own chock. All you need is some plywood for a floor plate and some 2x4's to stack in a U shape to cup the front tire. I've used this method twice to set my suspension and once on a landscapers trailer to transport the bike. It works great and is wallet friendly.

I thought about a DIY solution. Could you post a picture of yours?

I have a couple of Condor Pit Stop wheel chocks. These are VERY robust, also not cheap. Image credit to Condor's website.



This particular model is free standing on it's own without securing it to a base as the one in the OP's post or the HF model. It folds up for storage, not super compact but smaller than fully deployed.The thing is adjustable for various wheel sizes and will fit the R12R up my E'Glide similar to the one above.

I am a tool geek and like good stuff. In my mind I can't justify trusting a multiple thousand dollar bike to a $40.00 piece of questionable quality. But that's just me.

BigEasy wrote:I am a tool geek and like good stuff. In my mind I can't justify trusting a multiple thousand dollar bike to a $40.00 piece of questionable quality. But that's just me.

I'll have to agree with that. I came across the Condor yesterday on YouTube, and I am watching one on eBay. Good to know that it works with the Roadster.

I still think you need two people to do this properly. Ok, the device keeps the bike upright. You still need to be able to sit on it in full gear, weight as you would ride it, and get the sag measurements off the rear end at the axle and seat area somewhere. A second person is needed to do the measuring even if you can persuade yourself that the bike is appropriately loaded because you have your tippy toes keeping you upright.

BigEasy wrote:I am a tool geek and like good stuff. In my mind I can't justify trusting a multiple thousand dollar bike to a $40.00 piece of questionable quality. But that's just me.

I agree. I wish HF would raise the price to $249.99. I think that would eliminate my concerns about the quality.

Lynn

Keppelj wrote:I still think you need two people to do this properly. Ok, the device keeps the bike upright. You still need to be able to sit on it in full gear, weight as you would ride it, and get the sag measurements off the rear end at the axle and seat area somewhere. A second person is needed to do the measuring even if you can persuade yourself that the bike is appropriately loaded because you have your tippy toes keeping you upright.

I agree with Keppelj. Even if you're using a chock and don't have your tippy toes keeping you upright, it looks like impossible to measure sag while you're sitting on the bike. Firstforward, you suggested that you do this measurement solo using a chock. How?

dbrick wrote:

Keppelj wrote:I still think you need two people to do this properly. Ok, the device keeps the bike upright. You still need to be able to sit on it in full gear, weight as you would ride it, and get the sag measurements off the rear end at the axle and seat area somewhere. A second person is needed to do the measuring even if you can persuade yourself that the bike is appropriately loaded because you have your tippy toes keeping you upright.

I agree with Keppelj. Even if you're using a chock and don't have your tippy toes keeping you upright, it looks like impossible to measure sag while you're sitting on the bike. Firstforward, you suggested that you do this measurement solo using a chock. How?

You don't sit on the bike for static sag, and that's where the chock comes in.
For dynamic sag you can use a cable tie on the front for compression memory. In principle you can do that also on the rear if you convert the measurement by the ratio of levers, but the large ratio most certainly gives way to inaccuracies. The rear is where a helper will be handy, but if worse comes to worst I think you could do it alone with some creativity, a measuring stick, and a remote controlled camera or a water level.

Guys - the old saying goes 'necessity is the mother of invention'.
I use the tie wrap on the front fork to check the front and a large dial indicator magnetically mounted on a 5 gal gas can positioned next to the bike to check the rear. Front wheel in a chuck and working alone.

I can't count the times I've done something that required a 'factory tool' without the factory tool. When telling a 'factory tech about how I did it they usually say ' Wow, I never thought about doing it like that'.


BTW: seeing as were talking wheel chocks. I use one on the bike lift but always use tie downs along with it. I'm also very careful getting on and off the bike when the wheel is in a wheel chock because (IMHO) the front fork and bearings weren't designed to take the pressures that climbing on and off the bike with the front wheel clamped puts on the bike. I know it's not a big thing but it always bothers me when I see someone getting on and off a bike that is on a lift with the wheel clamped and no tie downs.

mogu83 wrote:Guys - the old saying goes 'necessity is the mother of invention'.
I use the tie wrap on the front fork to check the front and a large dial indicator magnetically mounted on a 5 gal gas can positioned next to the bike to check the rear. Front wheel in a chuck and working alone.

I can't count the times I've done something that required a 'factory tool' without the factory tool. When telling a 'factory tech about how I did it they usually say ' Wow, I never thought about doing it like that'.


BTW: seeing as were talking wheel chocks. I use one on the bike lift but always use tie downs along with it. I'm also very careful getting on and off the bike when the wheel is in a wheel chock because (IMHO) the front fork and bearings weren't designed to take the pressures that climbing on and off the bike with the front wheel clamped puts on the bike. I know it's not a big thing but it always bothers me when I see someone getting on and off a bike that is on a lift with the wheel clamped and no tie downs.

Thanks for the encouragement. I like that saying.

Let me ask you too then, what kind of chock do you use? There is a wide array of prices, and I don't mind spending more if it means I get quality, but I also dislike the idea of spending unnecessarily.

There is also the possibility of using the rear chock type that uses a pin through the rear wheel hub, available from BMW-specific suppliers or BMW itself. Wunderlich has one for $150. I suppose that should work as well. Each type, front or rear, may have other handy applications besides suspension adjustments. The rear chock appears more stable and would seem to avoid the strain on the fork and bearings you mention. Pushing the bike into the front chock is probably easier than holding it and levering up the rear chock though. I've never used either and don't know.

hjsbmw wrote:Let me ask you too then, what kind of chock do you use? There is a wide array of prices, and I don't mind spending more if it means I get quality, but I also dislike the idea of spending unnecessarily.

I have a 1500 lb Harbor freight lift that comes with the wheel chock mounted on it. The chock is no where near the quantity of a Condor chock but I'm totally satisfied with its performance. As I stated above I ALWAYS attach tie downs to the bike when its on the lift and held by the front wheel chock, but I would do that even with the Condor chock.

MY opinion on tool quality .
I really like the feeling of Snap On or Proto tools but my tool box is filled mostly with Craftsman tools from Sears. They work the same and have a good warranty (if it ever breaks bring it back), they just don't feel as nice as the high priced stuff. As far as Harbor Freight stuff, if it's a specialty type tool that I'm only going to use three or four times in my lifetime I can't justify buying top of the line stuff when the cheaper stuff will do. Naturally stuff like torque wrenches or fine measuring devices buying the best you can afford isn't a waste of money.
Again IMHO - you asked.

hjsbmw wrote: Pushing the bike into the front chock is probably easier than holding it and levering up the rear chock though. I've never used either and don't know.

That is a correct assessment.

I have a couple of Pit Bull rear stands (not the BMW one though, however I'm sure I'll find a way to justify one sooner or later) and they do bring a little fear to the heart when levering up on your own the first few times. I believe IIRC that the BMW branded stand is a forward lever as the Pit Bull BMW one is. Using the forward lever stand that I have for 2 sided swing arm bikes is much less scary than the rear lever stand for what it's worth. I'm thinking that with the pin through the hole in the hub and the stand wheels levered to the ground it "should" be pretty stable and considerably less scary.

FYI: did the adjustment without a chock. I used a tape measure in one hand and a piece of tape with a mark on the bike while seated on it. It's simple for the front and requires a bit more balancing for the rear. I attached the tape measure to a fixed point and measured the distance to the mark.