BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

It appears one is supposed to replace some bolts and other parts when installing shocks. Which are the applicable parts? I'd like to order them to have them on hand when the shocks arrive. I know BMW has a thing for replacing nuts and rings. Is this necessary here although they recommend use of Loctite for reassembly?

From reading here it seems furthermore that the rear is easier to swap out, but the front needs the tank removed or at least loosened and pulled back. Some of you seem to have had problems pulling out the front shock due to limited clearance. I welcome general hints and tips on what to do or not to do. In particular, is this a one man job, or do I need to line up a helper? At the very least it seems prudent to use some kind of a jack to support the bike while doing the work.

I have also read about warming up the bolts to loosen them. I don't suppose that means using a brazing torch, which is what I have in my garage. What's the appropriate heat source for the job?

Thanks!

I replaced the shocks on my '07 last month, and reused all the bolts and nuts.

Both the lower front and lower rear bolts are installed at the factory with some form of Locktite. Heat is necessary to remove them. The best method, I think, is use of a heat gun - something like a hair dryer but *much* hotter. It took a significant amount of get the bolts to loosen. If the bolt squeaks and moves jerkily, it isn't hot enough.

Yes, the tank must move backwards in order to access the top mount. You may be able to do this without disconnecting the fuel lines. Because the top of the front shock fits into an inverted-U casting, the shock must move backwards, and then the bottom of the shock withdrawn to the side. I had a very hard time doing this, and wasn't able to do this until I removed the alternator cover. It's possible to get the cover out without removing the oil cooler and its lines; with the cover removed, there's enough clearance to move and then remove the shock. My bike rests lightly on the front wheel when on the centerstand, so I supported the front weight of the bike by putting a stack of wood blocks under the front bottom of the motor. Strapping the centerstand crossbar to the exhaust crossover should prevent the stand from retracting if you accidentally bump the bike forward. I thought during the job that I might have to remove the oi cooler and its lines, but that turned out not to be necessary.

The rear was easy, and can be done while leaving the rear wheel in place. I think I pivoted the muffler out of the way, but I don't remember.

when I put my Hyperpros on I didnt use heat to undo any bolts

The part that is recommended for replacement is the nut at the top of the rear shock. If you look at it you'll see that it's a little oval rather than round. It's meant to be like a lock nut (BMW version).

You do need to take the tank off to get to the top of the front shock. I also had to remove the alternator cover and the oil cooler to make room for the replacement shock.

I needed no heat for the front or rear bolts although the front was quite tight.

The original bolt for the top of the front shock has an allen fitting so the shock won't spin around while loosening it or tightening it. Your replacement may not have that allen cut out in the center of the bolt. This makes it hard to torque to spec. I was told by Ted Porter that they just air gun it on. I did the same. No ill effects so far.

NakedRider wrote:The part that is recommended for replacement is the nut at the top of the rear shock. If you look at it you'll see that it's a little oval rather than round. It's meant to be like a lock nut (BMW version).

You do need to take the tank off to get to the top of the front shock. I also had to remove the alternator cover and the oil cooler to make room for the replacement shock.

I needed no heat for the front or rear bolts although the front was quite tight.

The original bolt for the top of the front shock has an allen fitting so the shock won't spin around while loosening it or tightening it. Your replacement may not have that allen cut out in the center of the bolt. This makes it hard to torque to spec. I was told by Ted Porter that they just air gun it on. I did the same. No ill effects so far.

"You do need to take the tank off to get to the top of the front shock. I also had to remove the alternator cover and the oil cooler to make room for the replacement shock."
I had to do this also but there were people telling me I did not need to do this. I wasted alot of time trying to install the front shock without removeing the alternator cover and oil cooler. No heat gun.

Mark

Mark
Your kind of saying that folks on this list purposely gave false information just to cause someone else to have a hard time. I removed and installed the front shock and only had to slide the tank back, I did remove the cover from the oil cooler.
Maybe I accomplished that by having access to tools that you don't, or maybe it was because at one time I worked as a mechanic in a car dealer and the only way to make a decent wage was to figure out how to do things faster than the flat rate book said it could be done.
Either way the information given on the list was correct. The greatest varable being the skill of the person doing the job.

celticus wrote:

NakedRider wrote:The part that is recommended for replacement is the nut at the top of the rear shock. If you look at it you'll see that it's a little oval rather than round. It's meant to be like a lock nut (BMW version).

You do need to take the tank off to get to the top of the front shock. I also had to remove the alternator cover and the oil cooler to make room for the replacement shock.

I needed no heat for the front or rear bolts although the front was quite tight.

The original bolt for the top of the front shock has an allen fitting so the shock won't spin around while loosening it or tightening it. Your replacement may not have that allen cut out in the center of the bolt. This makes it hard to torque to spec. I was told by Ted Porter that they just air gun it on. I did the same. No ill effects so far.

"You do need to take the tank off to get to the top of the front shock. I also had to remove the alternator cover and the oil cooler to make room for the replacement shock."
I had to do this also but there were people telling me I did not need to do this. I wasted alot of time trying to install the front shock without removeing the alternator cover and oil cooler. No heat gun.

Mark

You're right. The tank just needs to be slid back. Getting my bikes confused. Thanks for the correction.

It's been 4 years since I did mine, and do not remember all of the ins and outs, but I do know I did not need to remove any of the covers. I did however have mine on a Craftsman lift/jack when I did it, that may have relaxed the front end somewhat. Mine did require some heat to loosen the thread locking compound. I tried a heat gun but the one I had at the time was pretty weak. After fighting it for a few minutes I resorted to direct application of a soldering iron and it worked a treat.

I did mine solo in about an hour and a half, without removing the tank fully, just sliding it back a couple of inches.

Hello: I am attempting to replace the shocks on my R12R and am having an issue removing the nut at the top of the front shock mount. There is not much room to work. I have moved the tank back a couple of inches, and have tried holding the shaft with a T30 Key-but can not get the nut to start to spin free. I haven't tried any heat-as there seems to be a lot of 'fragile' stuff under there. Your experience will be greatly appreciated!!

Regards: