Clutch Bleed Valve

[ekiM]

All,

Please forgive my stupid question.

I have a 2002 non-ABS R1150R and I'd like to bleed the clutch. Can somebody tell me if the bleed valve for the clutch is the one that is between the emissions control canister and the rear shock absorber, above the rear wheel, on the right side of the bike. This valve is wrapped in rubber and has a hex head bolt buried inside it, and it runs roughly parallel to the ground. If this isn't the clutch bleed valve, can you tell me where it is?

Many thanks, in advance,
Mike

[Boxer]

Yes! That is the clutch bleed valve. It has a grub screw installed at the factory. It makes the job much easier if you go buy the bleeder valve from the dealer and exchange it with the grub screw. It is installed with the super sticky thread lock, so it will be very hard to unscrew it, but you can do it. Replace it with the inexpensive little bleeder valve and you're on your way.

[ekiM]

Boxer,

Thank you, very much. I will get that bleed valve from the dealer--I assume that I should leave the new one in when I install it, so I will do that unless advised to the contrary.

Again, many thanks,
Mike

[Boxer]

No, you take the grub screw out and just screw in the bleed nipple in its place. Some fluid will drain out, but its okay it not under much pressure.

Here's the photo of the bleed nipple package. Maybe the number will help.

[ekiM]

I understand. Thanks again!

Mike

[Boxer]

Sorry, I mis-read your last post about leaving the bleeder in place. Yes, that's correct. It stays in after you've installed it.

[jm1515]

GENTLY heat the base of the grub screw assembly, then you can remove it .
You can goto any NAPA, Advance Auto etc & get an M10 x 1.0 bleed screw....

[ekiM]

Thank you Both!

Mike

[CycleRob]

ekiM,
I also had a 2002 non-ABS R1150R. There is a problem with the the grub screw assembly. It is installed with a thread locking agent. I used a dripping wet rag wrapped around the hose fitting end, clamped a ViseGrip tightly, and adjacent to the hose fitting, then heated the very end with a propane torch about 20 seconds. Immediately try loosening the grub screw . . . it should come right out. Down in the threaded hole you'll see a ball check valve in it that needs to be partially depressed so it will pass the fluid. Not sure if the bleeder screw will do that if you loosen it just a little as a fine point is required to depress it. It definitely will not release the check ball if you loosen the bleeder screw too much.

Since the male threads are the same, I removed the entire grub screw black painted Aluminum assembly and replaced it with the new bleeder screw. That is screw the new bleeder screw into the hose end fitting. In either case you choose, you have to be careful with too much tightening/loosening forces as the fine pitch female threads are Aluminum and they will wear out or even gall and be ruined. I gave myself an advantage by applying black Moly grease to those female threads and (this is important) used bleeding operation close-off torques that were very weak and minimal. That avoids wearing out the very critical, quite vulnerable, Aluminum female threads -and- compensates for the ~30% lower tightening torque necessary for greased threads. Just be mindful of what you're doing, occasionally remove/clean/regrease the female threads and you'll be bleeding it every year, for years, without damage.

[towerworker]

BTW--for any that are new enough to this board that don't know or are not familiar with CycleRob--he is without a doubt the foremost authority on our R's.








Next would be me.

[towerworker]

At least when it comes time to change the R's antifreeze.

[ekiM]

CycleRob and Towerworker,

Thanks to you both!

Mike