BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Since I had the bike up on my handy dandy new lift I just
completed , I decided to install the chrome exhaust tip
on the cat (muffler recently removed).

Found a 1-3/4" ID chrome turn down 8" long at Summit Racing
for $13 shipped. Had seen some similar big name brand tips
for as much as over $100 ! They're sure proud of their stuff !

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/JEX-JTD134/

Also found a longer 13" one if anyone would want something
like that, $35.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/13-turned-out- ... zmap=23026

Also found some inexpensive baffles that fit inside pretty reasonable if
someone would happen to want to quiet it down just a mite

http://www.jcwhitney.com/motorcycle-baf ... j1s17.jcwx

http://www.jcwhitney.com/bikers-choice- ... d=c14675j1

On my 8" turn down, there's about 4" max of straight pipe for
installing one of the short baffles.

My turn down is listed as "weld on" but I didn't have to do that.
Cut about 10 slits about 1" lengthwise on the end that fits on the cat,
used a sawzall blade which is wider than a porta band blade to
help reduce the ID enough when squeezed together so it fits snug
over the CC outlet.

Was going to use the existing chrome shield and clamp but when I
looked closer at it I saw that the muffler end of the shield sticks
out a good 1-1/2" from the pipe to cover the forward end of the
muffler, which would look wrong.

I already had the slits cut so I had to use a clamp. I had a nice
stainless heavy duty worm drive clamp so used it. Cut the excess
off and positioned the worm drive behind the pipe & low, about the
5:00 position looking from the rear, so the pipe hides it. Looks OK.
Otherwise would just have drilled one small hole on the bottom and
used a #12 x 1/2" sheet metal screw to hold it on.

Pardon the pics, it was already after dark when I finished.

http://s719.photobucket.com/albums/ww20 ... ust%20Tip/

Looks good, sounds good and it's not going anywhere. I also like how the wheel looks without the stock can blocking it.

Agreed.

I finally had the time to clean it, I knew it was dirty, but wow!

Good thing it was dark when I took those pics or you'd have
been on my case about cleaning the poor thing.

took the muffler off my 02 rr couple days ago. indeed it sounds great!!

just ordered the tip from summit and plan to use the stock clamp. thx for the post macx!!

How loud is it without the muffler?

I like a hearty engine thrum. The current sewing machine is pleasant but a bit quite. I don't like annoying Harley's. I want to keep my hearing.

Just askin'.

John

That's hard to describe.

Not nearly as loud (or annoying) as the typical Harley with straight pipes.

With no tip on it I can hear it pretty plainly with my full helmet on, at i.e. 60 mph, but it's not at all annoying.

Maybe a little less loud than a warmed up street car with nice mellow turbo mufflers.

My wife is in her mid 50's and doesn't think it's overly loud at all, and she's not a hot rodder like I am.

It does have just a little bit of a rasp, or an over-tone a little like a typical tuner with a fart can or a hot rod with a Dronemaster muffler, but not overly loud. There's still a nice predominant mellow / powerful sound. After I put my turndown on and aimed it about halfway between down and out, that eliminated that little bit of fart can rap at the rider's position, but when on the stand and idling I can still hear it when I walk behind it and to the exhaust side.

I've got one of the short internal baffles coming, should be here in a day or 2, mostly to see if it gets rid of that little bit of rap.

When getting on the throttle I think that little bit of rap disappears, or gets drowned out by a nice powerful growl.

For a budget sound improvement I think it's well worth it.
But I do prefer it with a turn down on it. Quiets it down a little at road speed which might be nice for longer trips.

I can still hear it at a steady 60 mph in 5th but it's not "intrusive" or annoying at all.

You can try it and if you don't like it you can just put your muffler back on.

yeah took me about 5 minutes to remove it. should not take longer than that to put it back on...

i am getting the summit tip today. hopefully the installation will be a breeze too

This particular tip was described as a "weld on" - but of course
there are multiple ways around that.

Probly the simplest is to drill a couple (I'd use 2 just for peace of
mind) holes at the bottom / inside for #10 or #12 by 1/2" socket
head sheet metal screws.

I had originally figured on using the original clamp but when I
went to put it on, I saw that the shield on the outside of the clamp
at the back end of it sticks out away from the pipe about 1-1/2" or
maybe + a little, of course to cover the forward end of the stock
muffler.

I didn't care for the way that looked, but I already had cut about
10 slits in it about 1" deep from the inlet end, so had to use a
clamp. I had a nice stainless heavy duty band clamp and that
worked really well. Used a socket on it to get it good and tight,
put the clamp screw on the inside bottom so it isn't hardly visible
and trimmed off the excess with a side cutter.

Being our pipes are of course metric and the tip in question is not,
it's just a tad loose when put over the cat outlet.

If you cut slits in it, you need to make about 10 slits and use a
thick blade - I used a metal sawzall blade which is thicker and
takes out more metal than i.e. a porta-band blade. You have to
take out enuf metal in that many slits so it crimps down tight
around the cat outlet.

It probly would look a little neater with the 2 screws.

I've put a couple hundred miles of stop and go on mine since
I clamped it on and it's still solid and tight.

macx wrote:
If you cut slits in it, you need to make about 10 slits and use a
thick blade - I used a metal sawzall blade which is thicker and
takes out more metal than i.e. a porta-band blade. You have to
take out enuf metal in that many slits so it crimps down tight
around the cat outlet.

Not sure how thick the metal on the tip is, but couldn't you just copy the cuts from the original can (two 1/4in slits opposite each other) to leave more metal and still maintain the integrity of the pipe? If its getting covered with a clamp, I wouldn't think it'd matter. Granted, that would assume the diameters were close enough to do that. I'm always leering of drilling holes into parts of the bike if I don't have to.

Hi macx

Does the "Jones Exhaust JTD134" you placed in your R1150R affect in any way the passenger's left foot?, or generate any kind of hot air to reach him/her (even when waiting at a signal)?

Thanks

Eduardo.

Nope - because it blows it to the rear as well as somewhat downward and away from the bike.

At least I don't think so - I have felt the air around the area while the bike
is sitting idling. I rarely have a passenger so can't say from experience.
The exhaust doesn't spread around much until it slows down and even at
idle it blows it rearward a foot or so before that happens. Any heat from
the turndown should not be any greater than the heat from the oem muffler,
probly less as there's less surface area for heat to radiate from. I have it
turned mostly downward as I have found it reduces the "rap" part of the exhaust sound
in the area to the left and to the rear of the bike. Makes no difference
to the rider's ears. I just turn it out a little bit to make sure the exhaust
doesn't blow on the tire. It seems to blow it beyond the tire before the
flow spreads out much.

If you're concerned about that, here's a longer one that does the same
thing but is about 7" longer and should get the dump point well behind the
pass footrest.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/13-turned-out- ... zmap=23026

I took a few more pics, tried to get a better perspective but is kind of
difficult to accurately show a good perspective in a picture. Hope this helps.

http://s719.photobucket.com/albums/ww20 ... 20Tip%202/

a hearty engine thrum

that's what it's like...a good description

John

Here is my solution using the "Jones Exhaust JTD134"

A filler being used to work the difference between external diameter of the cat and the internal diameter of the Jones Exhaust.
Filler needed so no gases leak through the slits used in other solutions.
Clamps used do not stand a big torque in the bolts, so clamping effect diminished.
Then three used so they will stand any vibrations over time.

Explanation follows:

Just installed the JTD134 exhaust.
Used a metal filler 1.25 mm thick in between the RR exhaust tube and the short pipe.
The real gap between them is 1.8 mm, preferred to use a smaller filler otherwise it would have probably be impossible to install it.

The JTD134 external diameter is 51.5 mm
The JTD134 internal diameter ( I filed the border imperfections away ) is 47.62 mm
The RR exhaust outer diameter is 44 mm.

I fabricated that insert using Home Depot parts that are sold to hold together wooden parts used for roofing. In this case it was a straight ruler of something like 12 inches long; I cut it in the correct lenght, that is Pi times 44 = 138 mm and gave it a cylindrical shape as needed to fit around the RR exhaust pipe.

After that I pushed the JTD134 into the RR exhaust, with the filler already in place. I bent the border of the filler a bit inwards so it would not obstruct the JTD134 when being placed in, that bent part was like the 5mm nearer to the incoming JTD134.

I pushed the JTD134 up until it covered a bit more than half the insert. At that point it was already hard to push it in any further.

Then I used three metallic pieces, like 3 inches long each I cut from a " 3/4" x 10' Galvanized Hanger Strap" part # 33923 at the Home Depot. This thing is used to support pipes hanging from roofs and attached on walls.

I placed these three metallic pieces uniformly separated, flat against the exhaust the filler and the JTD134 diameters, then used three metal worm clamps on top of them. One bitting completely over the JTD134, one other over the filler insert, and the last bitting exclusively over the RR pipe. The three of them bitting over the three metallic pieces.

I did not need to make any slots on the JTD134. I chose not to because with this technique it was not needed and because the JTD134 metal is to thick and wouldn't bend nicely I believe, also the difference in external RR diameter and internal JTD134 being 3.6 mm if not somehow filled would have surely generated a leak through the slots..., I believe.

These metal parts cost at the HD were less than 10$ total. And only a small part of them was used.

The sound is great.
I do travel long with my RR, so I'll let you know how it works noise wise in long trips soon.

Well these are my two cents.

Eduardo.

That's a LOT of clamps!

Mine is holding on very nicely after making the slits so the ID of the
tip could be reduced to a snug fit over the cat outlet then using just
1 clamp.

http://s719.photobucket.com/albums/ww20 ... C12540.jpg