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Hi All
Just bought a Craftsman Torque wrench and I am struglling with the conversion and settings on the wrench. Would have been nice if they numbering was somewhat larger or more visible. I want to wrench myself and but know it is critical to have the torque wrench set to the right specifications or "snap" XXX??XX!?!!. I looking for an online video or manual for the Sears craftsmen wrench to educate myself....Please point me in the right directions or some other ideas on how to be the master of my Wrench

Hi
All modern torque wrenches work on the basic very simple procedure. Somewhere you have to unlock the wrench. Then you adjust it to the setting that you need (normally by turning the handle), lock the wrench again. Now you are ready to tighten bolt/nuts to your required setting. Just place a hand over the part of the wrench on the bolt/nut to keep it steady, slowly pull with your other hand until you hear a click. STOP. The bolt/nut is tight.

REMEMBER once you have finished with the wrench, unlock it, turn it to zero again and leave it unlocked until you want to use it again.

Johan

Printable conversion table here: http://www.thetoolhut.com/Torque-Conver ... etric.html

I have two Craftsman click type torque wrenches. They both have ft-lbs and N-m. IIRC, they are shown on opposite sides of the wrench handle.

rdsmith3 wrote:I have two Craftsman click type torque wrenches. They both have ft-lbs and N-m. IIRC, they are shown on opposite sides of the wrench handle.

And usually the lock is a knob thingy at the base of the handle that unlocks left and locks right. I am actually surprised a Craftsman did not come with a manual.

I have the 3/8 drive model. I can see on the shaft in chrome the measurements for n-m and Ft -lbs. I want to adjust the cyclinder head cover bolts to 8 n-m. My clymer manual shows 8 n-m or 80 ft-lbs. Which adjustment would I use or does it matter.

nM is what is usually specified.

You need a wrench that will go down to 8nM and that will prob be a 1/4" drive. And up to 110 and that will be a 3/8 or 1/2
You may also need an adaptor 1/4 to 3/8 if you don't have a complete duplicate set of sockets. torx, or hex. An extension changes the setting slightly, but that depends on its length, so a <1" adapter prob doesn change things much if at all, but I defer to someone more knowledgeable.

If you have access to a computer you can google "conversion table nM" and you will find many many. They are very easy to use. Some will compensate for the extension you may use.

Just make sure you are looking at the correct scale when you are setting the wrench. And then check it again.

John

8 nM is less than 6 ft lbs.

Please use a little 1/4" torque wrench for the cylinder head bolts. You can read some of the horror stories in this forum -- broken bolts and stripped threads. For these low torque value applications, you want to sneak up on the correct torque value, not rush into it, if you know what I mean. You want firm, consistent pressure on the wrench, and don't jam it quickly.

My clymer manual shows 8 n-m or 80 ft-lbs.

See http://www.onlineconversion.com/torque.htm

It probably specified 8nm = 80 in-lbs, which is actually an incorrect conversion since
1nm=0.737 ft-lbs, and
there are 12in-lbs in a ft-lb, so
8nm is about 70in-lbs = about 6ft-lbs.

This is generally considered "snugged-up", eg. more than finger tight, but not "tight".
If you put just your first three fingers on a short wrench (say for ~3/8" bolthead size) and pull gently, that's about 6-8nm.

See how easily those valve cover bolts can strip out?

Welcome aboard! This forum is a wealth of "been-there-done-that" kind of information, and you will get back more than you donated both in saved time and unbroken parts!

davidh8462 wrote:I have the 3/8 drive model. I can see on the shaft in chrome the measurements for n-m and Ft -lbs. I want to adjust the cyclinder head cover bolts to 8 n-m. My clymer manual shows 8 n-m or 80 ft-lbs. Which adjustment would I use or does it matter.

8Nm = a bit over 10 ft/lb. I'm sure it should say 80 in/lb!