BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

now have 6000 on clock....last changed 1 year ago using 20w50 bmw dino oil.....looking to change to synthetic 15w50 bmw sseo....now the question....should oil be changed annually ? even if only 1000 mi. on oil ? live in nw fla.....hot here.....also is the oil filter wrench a 74mm 14 sides ? have crush washers for f.j. cruiser can they be used ? thanks for info .

newmilneum wrote:now have 6000 on clock....last changed 1 year ago using 20w50 bmw dino oil.....looking to change to synthetic 15w50 bmw sseo....now the question....should oil be changed annually ? even if only 1000 mi. on oil ? live in nw fla.....hot here.....also is the oil filter wrench a 74mm 14 sides ? have crush washers for f.j. cruiser can they be used ? thanks for info .

I'd change it again. If it didn't need it didn't actually need the change then you've spent $30 and 30 minutes of your time. I don't know the oil filter wrench size, the first oil filter wrench I bought was the $4 one at the local auto parts store that fit the OEM filter I bought. You can also just punch a hole in it with a screw driver, spin it off, and use a K&N or epoxy a nut to the OEM/whatever brand filter you're putting back on so that you can get it on/off without a filter wrench.

If it were my bike and it had been a year since I last changed the oil, I'd certainly change it now.

I'd also spend a couple of bucks on the BMW oil filter wrench. From the dealer it's about $18 but you can get one here for quite a bit less:
http://www.beemerboneyard.com/kohfilterwr.html
They also sell Bosch filters and crush washers for less than similar dealer parts. I've heard good reports about the Bosch filters though personally I'm reluctant to use anything but the OEM Mahle filter. It's really well-made filter and if you are only changing oil/filter once a year, the cost differential to aftermarket brands is really immaterial. That's a personal choice though.

Regarding the switch to synthetic oil, the standard advice is that if you've stopped consuming oil, it's OK to switch regardless of how many miles are on the clock. Since you live in Florida, synthetic may be the lubricant of choice because of the heat. I don't want to start yet another of the endless threads on oil but I firmly believe that any good quality motor oil meeting the latest API classification (not necessarily the same API spec called for in your manual) and in the proper visosity is fine. In my opinion, there is nothing in the BMW oil that justifies the higher price. Again, I choose to use good quality auto oil (Mobil 1 15W50) and use the money saved to buy the Mahle oil filter (which I am convinced is superior and worth the added cost). YMMV.

As to your crush washers, I have no idea if they'll fit. New ones from the dealer are a buck so it hardly seems worth using something else.

Remember that this advice is worth every penny you paid for it.

Charlie

thanks for the info Charlie.....live about 4/5 hours from dealer.....made the trip last year to have them do the 6000 service but with only apprx. 5000 on the clock.....bought used 2 years ago @ apprx 3500 mi. & prev. owner had changed oil/filter and battery @ 3000 mi. I do most all own maint. on mowers,generators,edgers,tillers etc. and use Syn. oil in everything and do it every year... really enjoy this bike as well as an 06 KLX duel sport. thanks jeff

I use this non-BMW oil filter wrench and it spins off the over tighten oil filter effortlessly.

Dimensions:
74mm across the flats
82mm outer diameter
14 flutes/sides

Cheers,
Phang

The filter wrench can be found at most auto parts store, it's a standard Lisle part, #54760, for 76mm 14 flute filters.

As to filters, Bob's BMW says as far as they're concerned, the Bosch 72161 is a direct replacement for the OEM part. Bob's sells the Bosch filter in fact, but a better place to buy is on Amazon, where one company is selling them for $3.27 each. Buy 8-10 to dilute the shipping cost, and they're less than $4.50 delivered to your door.