BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

Is there a way to adjust the high idle speed of the "choke" lever other then using the adjusting nut for freeplay at the grip..? When the bike is cold I can not get the idle over 1000/1100 with lever pulled all the way back - it drops to 900 when released and it rests in the mid position. What should I expect to see with the high idle lever pulled? Once warmed up - the bike has a good idle of 1050-1100 and the high idle lever pushed down/off. Also wondering what the thoughts are on fuel management systems, i.e. Techlusion, PowerCommander, Wunderlich & the ZTechnik Eprom... It was mentioned in a previous post I had were I mentioned the bike surges and seems to have a flat spot/bog down at full throttle, that these would cure the problem - or - will/is it masking a different problem...??? Thanks for any input!

Mark'04 R1150R Rockster - Citrus/Black
'00 K1200RS "Taxi"
'06 Suzuki M50 - Hers...

ND4SPD,

I have zero freeplay on the fast idle lever's freeplay adjuster. Set it with a hot engine running at the full left and right steering locks. You are looking for the exact point where the idle goes to normal and stays there when the steering goes lock-2-lock. Your low full fast idle lever RPM's means you also have too much freeplay in your throttle cables at each TB cable. If there is too much freeplay at each TB cable adjuster, the fast idle lever wastes a good portion of it's movement taking up that slack.That must be straightened out at the next TB synchronization. Once both of those freeplay adjustments are dialed in you'll have 1,600 RPM++.

Your full throttle bog could be sparkplugs or gasoline quality (age?).

ND4SPD

Just to clarify CycleRob's post there are two primary freeplays to contend with.

First we have the throttle freeplay where the main cable from the throttle ataches to a pulley that actuates two other cables that operate the TB's. Typically one will have about 1/8" of rotational play at the throttle before the TB butterflies will start to open. This is easy to check by actuating the throttle until the slack is taken up while holding a finger on the butterfly crank at the TB. If this freeplay is within the spec, I would then proceed to the "choke" lever.

As above proceed to check when the TB's start opening as you actuate the "choke" lever. The idea is to minimize the freeplay by adjusting the cable length to the point where when the"choke" is off you can move the steering from lock to lock withou affecting the idle as indicated by CycleRob's post.

Good luck and welcome to the site.

I recently installed new plugs. Primary/secondary are NGK Iridium's... Is there a better plug to use - should I have stayed w/ the Bosch OEM"s? As for the fuel, I thought maybe I had a bad tank, I've run it down twice since the problem first occurred - each time refueling at two different stations and using premium. After cleaning the TB's, adjusting the valves and syncing - it runs smoother, idles better (once warmed up - otherwise it's real cold blooded) - but the flat spot/bogging issue remains... It's a bit frustrating - I'd hate to have to take it in to the dealer

ND4SPD,

The NGK Iridium plugs are the very best!!

The rough running symptoms point to dead stick coils. Unplug the L & R stick coil's primary wire while it's running and see if the idle worsens.

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Would the weak/failed stick coil also be a factor in the poor high speed performance - flat spot and/or bogging sensation when rolling on a fair amount of throttle at highway speeds...?

OK - I'm getting more & more familiar w/ the bike and it's issues... I think I may have narrowed the problem down to failed stick coils.... After adjusting valves, syncing TB, changing plugs. Here is what I got... When running - I disconnected each primary coil one at a time and noticed absolutely no difference in how the engine runs. Knowing there are secondary plugs firing - I disconnected them both, and with both primaries connected, the bike would not start and only spit/sputtered. Reconnect secondary plugs and bike starts and runs like before. This would lead me to belive both stick coils are failed - how likely is that??? Is there away to test the input signal/voltage to the coils to make sure they are in deed failed - what actually triggers them - I assume the computer. Is it safe to say the same input goes to the secondary coils? So if that coil works the other output should be OK...?? Any input/opinions would help on this - Thanks!!

Those stick coils have been a real problem for many folks. I think you found your problem. Both coils have gone bad on other people as well. They seem to have been of particularly low quality on the 04 bikes. I'm just waiting for mine to go some day. I believe the replacements are better quality, and they are now grey in color.

You could continue to troubleshoot, but that will probably be a waste of time. Below is a link to a thread about testing the coils. You've done what needs to be done, so most of it is irrelevent now. But there is a qoute from a BMW tech that said, "Either they [the coils] work or they don't." I am no expert but...I think your computer and the rest of the bike seem fine, as spark is getting to the secondary plugs and the fuel injection system is working.

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