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How long does it take to have the clutch replaced on '02 1150R?
At the same time, what would be a fair price to pay for the job?

Clutch disc is close to $180, one can get it with a 20% discount from Chicago BMW and I will assume no other clutch components are needed. Shop labor will run at least 6-8 hours and there will be other issues come up. You don't mention the actual mileage, but if the clutch is worn out I would guess the slave cylinder is gone as well and you probably need the brake fluid changed as well.

Depending on the shop rate it could run anywhere from $800 to $1000. Of course if you do it yourself or with a friend the outlay is parts only. You might want to do a search as most recently the topic has re-surfaced.

vexlak, In tax-n-spend blue state NY . . . . bendover. You're looking at $800+ easily. It's likely they'll find other things needing replacement like the slave Boxermania mentioned and swingarm pivot pins, bearings and even the transmission input shaft. All those could push you well over $2,000.

It'll prolly be cheaper to truck it to Bob's BMW in Maryland !

When my 02 blew the slave and fouled the disc, the estimate from the BMW dealer was $1600+. I found a competent independent shop to do the work for around $1100. My spline was fine and other mentioned potential problems were absent.

Thank you for your sky high numbers.... really appreciate it!
I got all the parts from Chicago BMW already and all I am missing is the slave. My question was really as to how the job lasts. I will multiply it by 2 and than I can get approximate time I will have to occupy my friend’s garage. I would love to just drop it off for repair, but I cannot effort it right now no matter where it is. Really bad clutch timing!
I am kinda hoping for the slave to be the problem as it is easiest to eliminate a slipping clutch @20K miles. Bike rides, but slips on high gears or high rpm’s. I could swear that I heard clicking noise one’s when really pulled back throttle and heard the clutch slip. I read some postings and I hope that I will not be part of the spline “ghetto”. Them I would be really screwed. Thank you again!

$180 for the disc? Do we need to change the whole assembly? I reckon the bolts have to be changed too?

Cheers

20K miles.....that is way early for a clutch replacement, unless you slip the clutch significantly to get going.

My bet is on the slave cylinder as the precursor to the problem. Just in case, the clutch disc once contaminated with hydraulic fluid is "toast" as the fluid soaks onto the organic material......I have known some that attempted to clean the disc and added double effort to their fun.

Best wishes......

I got all the parts. The plate, pressure plate, bolts, seal etc.
Chicago BMW had a list of parts to do clutch job and they sent me everything for around $400-$450 within 2 weeks of my order. Not bad I think. Anyone on the approximate duration of the job?

Keep your receipt, cause you won't need all those parts. Assuming your clutch is saturated with fluid, you won't need all that. Pulling the clutch slave will tell you most of what you need to know. If there is gear oil in there the input shaft seal is bad. If there is brake fluid, the slave is bad. I would recommend replacing the little felt piece that goes on the clutch slave rod. Otherwise, be sure to give it a good cleaning. I would also just clean the pressure plate and clutch housing with a good degreaser then rubbing alcohol.
As for how long the job will take, I'm not sure. I removed the rear end piece by piece. If you are just replacing the clutch, you can remove the transmission / rear end as an assembly. Shouldn't take much more than 2-3 hours for removal. There is a lot of hardware and connectors that have to come off to get the rear frame to swing up. If you have ABS, you'll have to loosen and carefully raise the module (DON'T REMOVE IT!!!) to get to the studs underneath it. The BMW manual left that mundane detail out.

Thank you AndyRR!
I got the felt seal. Is there a manual or DVD that I outlines the procedure? Someone ones mentioned some DVD from Ebay. Is it any good?
Also as I read here, that ones the clutch plate is "violated" by oil or brake fluid, it is no good. On the other hand someone suggested that freon is a great degreaser and it will take of anything from the plate so that it could be reused (assuming there is good amount of beef left). My is a non ABS model..

vexlak wrote:od?
Also as I read here, that ones the clutch plate is "violated" by oil or brake fluid, it is no good. On the other hand someone suggested that freon is a great degreaser and it will take of anything from the plate so that it could be reused (assuming there is good amount of beef left). My is a non ABS model..

Would you like to do this job twice?

snowprick wrote:

vexlak wrote:od?
Also as I read here, that ones the clutch plate is "violated" by oil or brake fluid, it is no good. On the other hand someone suggested that freon is a great degreaser and it will take of anything from the plate so that it could be reused (assuming there is good amount of beef left). My is a non ABS model..

Would you like to do this job twice?

Not really...

vexlak wrote:

snowprick wrote:

vexlak wrote:od?
Also as I read here, that ones the clutch plate is "violated" by oil or brake fluid, it is no good. On the other hand someone suggested that freon is a great degreaser and it will take of anything from the plate so that it could be reused (assuming there is good amount of beef left). My is a non ABS model..

Would you like to do this job twice?

Not really...

If it turns out to be GB oil it may also be the small seal under the clutch slave. The slave has to be pulled to get at it then you can gouge it out. Unles you prefer to split the box (not recommended) Good luck.

P.S. If ever you had the QD leak, now is the time to paint the GB