BMW R1200R R1150R/T F800 K1200R R1100R/T R1250R RnineT Message Board

*************** U p d a t e d *********************************************************************************

Guys, I need your opinions/advice, since I'm not sure how to proceed. Here is the story...

According to Clymer's manual the correct oil level in transmission: "if the oil is even with the lower edge of the fill cap hole". And this works for me fine during two previous transmission oil changes (I used 75/140 "Mobil 1" synthetic gear oil).
But yesterday, I was changing transmission oil and decided to try "Red Line Heavy ShockProof" (see URL bellow) oil that was discussed several times in the r1150r.net forum.

This oil comes in 1 quart package: http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gear ... tegoryID=6

So, I went for a 15 min ride to warm up the bike, returned back and then religiously drained all used oil from transmission. I opened a new bottle of "Red Line Heavy ShockProof" and this was the moment when I realized that this oil is much "thicker" than a regular one I used before. (For those who never saw this stuff: it consistency reminds a 0% fat yogurt, but colored in red). So, that was a first surprise for me. Anyway, knowing that many people in this forum successfully use this stuff, I decided to continue....

The second surprise was when I squeezed everything out of this 1 quart plastic bottle, but the oil level still was bellow lower edge of the fill cap hole (not much, but still not the same level). I even took a bike for a 15 min. ride thinking that if I warm up this "yogurt -like" stuff enough, it will spread evenly around transmission body. And if so, then I can receive a correct oil level after that.
After the ride, I gave my bike to sit on a central stand for an hour and checked the oil level again. It was the same - about 4mm bellow the lower edge of the fill cap hole. Keep in mind that I used 1 quart instead usual 0.85 qt. and the oil level is still bellow the suggested one!

So, here are my questions:

[1] Is it normal for Red Line stuff that I used?
Should I stop worry and forget about this "irregularity" explaining the oil level by consistency difference? My current explanation is that because of thicker consistency, the oil stays on transmission parts and do not drip completely to the bottom. That's why the level is not correct.

[2] Or should I get another quart of Red Line and top it?

[3] (Sure some of us will even suggest to "drain that Red stuff and use the oil brand I used before")

Thank you in advance,
Matt

Hope you get this sorted out.

I can't understand how a gallon of any substance can go into a space normally occupied by .85 quart regardless of the viscosity.

Shockproof heavy comes in both quarts and gallons and I assume you meant you put in a quart!!
Now, provided you put, at least, the recommended measure of tranny fluid in there, I wouldn't sweat it. FYI - I use Mobil1 75w140 in my RT since new and changed to the same in my R when I bought it. And don't use the Shockproof in your FD will you!!!

Are you SURE you bought the gallon, and not the quart??? I've never used the stuff...M1 75/140 for me, but.....
The spec is for .8Liter (~27oz) at an oil change and 1L (33.8oz) following a re-build. I use 900ml, which takes me just to the bottom of threads.....but 1 whole qt will fit.
I'd drain it (hot), measure out something less than a qt or ~900ml, and call it a day....

Sorry for typo... Thanks, to philbytx and jm1515 who pointed to my mistake.

So, to clarify... I bought a 1 quart of Red Line ShockProof. Not 1 gallon. It was a brain fart, of course.
But still... the questions are the same, as it must take only 0.85 quart to get at "the lower edge of the fill cap hole" level. I used whole quart and still the oil level is not there.

(I'll update and edit the initial post to change gallon to quart)

Thanks,
Matt

As far as every container filled at the manufacturer being exactly the amount specified, don't count on it. If you look at a group of containers of virtually any liquid - motor oil, milk, just about whatever, you'll see there are small variations in how full they are. They're filled mechanically and there's always small variances.

If my "quick" conversion in my head is correct, you're within about an 1/8". I'm fairly new to beemers, but in any other automotive or heavy equipment application I've worked with (and that's a lot) that's perfectly acceptable in any other than a very small gearbox.

I've used it in 7 oilheads and have had the same resulting apparent underfill. Temperature matters. It is possible a good bit remains coating the inside of the container. It is possible the operating temp never reached a good level and just isn't showing a correct level due to expansion/contraction. My experience is to take it for a long hard ride - 50-150 miles. Really get the op temp up there. Check on center stand as soon as stopped. I'd expect some overflow at that time.

That RedLine shockproof IS just like thin yogurt. It most likely left a lot of itself behind in the bottle. The slightly low level is OK with most oils and especially that stuff and I'll tell you why. I just recently replaced the FD big bearing on Boxer's R1150R after it's 75,200 miles (121,022km). He used that RedLine shockproof stuff and it was a real chore to remove it from the internals!! The removed big gear/shaft/bearing assembly was upside-down on newspaper ALL NIGHT LONG. Almost 24hrs later when I picked it up, it STILL looked the same!!! Pinkish yogurt all over everything and very little on the newspaper. Amazing stuff.

You should also find it shifts smoother with no more "crunching" on normal shifts.

In speaking about temperatures, what about low outside temperature? Is there a point where this yogurt turns to wax? So this morning, the thermometer read 28F as I started my way to work on my R. Is this stuff OK down to, say, 20F? Lower?

I have a 24K service coming up and don't want to fill with something that could cause a problem with cold riding.